scotty nm35

I could in a few weeks. The issue is, they won't represent how these will work in most peoples VQ engines as I run much colder plugs, 5 times the cylinder pressure and e85. Btw Alex, the VQ25dd awd gearbox I was having rebuilt has different (weaker) internals, I have to get mine rebuilt as it won't handle the power. More clutches = more boost.

4 speed kits are available, I heard the 4 speed boxes are actually stronger but I have no hard data on that. I think they can just fit more clutches inside them if you build it. It is not an electronic issue, if the solenoids are faulty it will throw a solenoid code. Mine has no 5th at the moment and 1st 2nd and 3rd aren't happy. No fault codes just slipping clutches. Do not get a high stall converter, I tried one with mine and had to disconnect the torque lockup clutch in the end. All you will do is lose power and response. I ended up going back to the stock converter with a heavy duty lockup clutch. PM me if you need info, not many people understand these cars and you can end up spending much more than you need to. Best option may be to do a manual conversion, at least it's adding value, or just replace it with a wrecker 4spd auto with shift kit.

There are two level senders, one in each side. The car has a computer to guess the amount of fuel left from both those sensors, sometimes they get dirty but usually it is just fuel sloshing to the other side of the saddlebag tank around right hand corners. The fuel is slowly sucked back to the pump side of the tank while driving, using vacuum generated from the return line.

Same body but different part number, they probably run a higher coil output voltage as I have never found the limits of the stock VQ25det coils.

I have a spare here if you want to try it... Have you checked the plugs on the back yet? It isn't that hard to remove the dash.

Nissan Matic J or Nulon Synthetic are the only fluids I would recommend.

The clutches are slipping, generally means a rebuild is in order. Get the trans specialist to drop the pan and check it for clutch material, I bet it's caked. What fluid did they flush it with? Mine had similar symptoms when I bought it, I assumed they flushed mine with dextron III at compliance causing the damage to the clutches.

It could be blocked filters in the valve body too. When was it serviced last? Check the fluid level first, if that's ok take it for a service at MV.

Mine was running generic Dextron III, although it has extra clutches installed in the baskets. I don't recommend it for a stock RE5. I use the Nulon synthetic usually as it's proven and easy to find.

Just vinyl wrap it Craig. You know yours is never coming don't you... I have it.

It must have been a crappy holesaw, the sutton ones cut through like butter with a little cutting lube.

Are those prices including the shift kit? Otherwise I need to put my prices up. lol.

Came up good Aaron, I'm waiting to see the rest.

But a VR commodore as your last car? Obviously you're opinions don't count.

It also won't set if there is an engine fault lamp displayed from my experience. It will learn but as soon as I stopped the engine it would go back to 900 revs. (unless the throttle was damaged, I had to replace it in the end due to a random limp mode fault in the TPS.)

I was hoping to get a group buy together as I have been asked many times for a price on a Legalis system. Ask him if he can do a better price for 5 systems shipped, I'm sure there will be others interested. I will grab one...

Or replace the throttle body with an old dirty one like I did. Anyone else reading this... Dont clean the throttle.

Fuel injection bro.

They aren't cheap, I paid $240 for a 300L last week from my local supplier. Very similar flow to the 400L Walbro's once the pressure rises.

Blown a turbo? Drop the cat and look for ceramic pieces.

If it is a side valve head you need to shave it on an angle, or the valves will hit. Just need to drill the jet out to 30% larger and it will probably run fine. Without drilling the jet it will die quickly. (if you can even start it.) I was always too scared to ruin my trusty Honda.

Its most probably the AFM, the contacts inside sometimes come loose and require resoldering. Do a search if you feel confident, or just replace it with a know good one. Just looking at a component and seeing it is clean doesn't mean it is working.

4 stroke is fine, you would need to drill the carby jet out a little, then it could work. 2 strokes require castor oil to be mixed in also. It will loose power though unless you strap a turbo on the side. (or up the compression)

The SS1PU due to the higher pressure in the exhaust manifold, too much pressure here would cause heat issues though, you need an exhaust temp sensor in the manifold imo Stao. Have you incorperated the longer actuator arm for more leverage also?

Lack of servicing is the cause, along with high stock boost levels.