scotty nm35

Wow, that is a great price. He must be getting them cheap...

I only say that as there is a big difference in the setup for all three. An 11 second 1500kg drag whale needs to launch very hard, as the 60 foot time is key. I hope you have deep pockets...

Fastest drag car, track car, or grocery getter?

Is it Toshi? He mentioned basic reprogramming a few years back if there was enough interest. I have heard of many attempts to hack the stock ecu, but I am yet to see anyone locally unlock it, I can't even get a decent uncorrupted copy of the stock rom, with that theoretically a hex programmer could work out the maps and perhaps adjust certain aspects of the tune. I'm just not holding my breath for a decent solution any time soon, even if he has managed to communicate with the processor.

There are plenty of mobs that will drive out and re-gas your struts, I have used a few. I think it was $60 - $80 last time I called. Mine are still going strong years later Daz. I wouldn't bother with new unless they are very cheap.

All the pressure switch faults I have managed to clear were fixed by swapping the pressure pack out. Very unlikely the ecu would be the problem.

Not sure Yang, need to swap AFM's on the dyno and check out the afr's on boost. The low end will sort itself out using the o2 sensor. Looking at the power the VQ35 afm's flow, they should be pretty close.

More likely smaller cams than manifold restrictions I think. Does anyone know the lift on the Neo cams compared to the older RB25?

Even the VQ35 starter sort of fits, it's larger and probably more powerful than the little VQ25 unit. The power lead is on a different angle and gets close to the hot side cooler pipe, but mine doesn't seem to be an issue as yet, wouldn't be hard to insulate the wire better though, or just tape it down. I am interested to see if the VQ35 AFM will work too, as long as the voltage/airflow curve is similar it would be a great upgrade for those of us blowing AFM's constantly. I have new plugs in stock for them, and if you are tuning the car it probably wouldn't matter, but if the curve is out the stock ecu may not like it. Just need to spin a stock Stagea up on the dyno after fitting one before I can recommend them.

It's not just RB's, most engine designs will flow excess oil to the head at 8k revs, and on most it won't drain back well enough to the sump. My evo is in a similar boat.

Front, more likely the rear seal in the turbo... Check the dump for wet oil.

Same goes for running semi's on a roller dyno and strapping the car down hard, no-one will be interested when you run 50kw less than your projected output. Some cars are setup for drag and some aren't. It's less reliable than the dyno figures you are trying to prove misleading imo.

This is the issue I have when people do back to back tests, they only ever relate to their setup, not any other car, and unless you are measuring temp pre and post cooler you have no idea how much the temps are actually dropping in these situations. I run a cut down 220 x 600 shitty old Jap cooler I ran through the band saw, no dramas here. Would I get a better result with a 100mm core, most likely, but with added lag, plus there is no room to fit it on my car. If these chinese/Jap coolers actually restricted flow we would know about it, as no-one would get decent results with them. More likely the turbo is out of efficiency and heating the air too much, as that is what I would expect from taking a compressor to it's limits.

It's only a BCM reprogram, they didn't rebuild your engine in an afternoon. So did the new BCM fix the map lights and demister? I have another theory which would be more likely if the fault comes back...

Turbo's with ruined rear bearings will sometimes blow smoke on decel. Can you drop the dump and see how much play the turbine wheel has? More likely that than the stem seals, but who really knows until someone picks up a wrench...

Coils generally get worse with boost, not better. Can you borrow a known good set? I doubt it's your issue, but who knows.

4th one is the oem map sensor for the gauge in the gtt.

The tune sounds way out, was the leak there when you tuned the car?

So the roof rack doesn't make much wind noise Chris?

Yep.

Sounds like a fault is still there, it won't clear if that is the case. Only Intermittent faults will clear.

Too bloody long Cam. But I have 4 here at the moment, might be a week or two Igor.

It won't be the plug wells, mine were full of oil when I bought the car, and I didn't know about it for months, I only found it due to the oil burning on the turbo and shitting me. I have a Stagea here atm with a similar problem, I unplug and plug the coils in and they work fine for a day. I suspect the connector has a bad contact, or the wiring is faulty but still to find the issue. Worst case I am about to fit an emanage, so I can replace the entire coil loom fairly easily, the plugs are not hard to find. Intermittent problems can be hard sometimes.

Interesting Ben, a PM is on the way. GLWS Greg. I would have definitely bought the fronts if you were willing to split them up, just in case someone in here needs the rears only.

Are you using the flashing MIL? I thought there could only be two faults displayed. Get it on a Consult 3 mate.