scotty nm35

I:32.8 at Sandown on a damp track. Good fun.

Should have kept the stagea Aaron you dropkick.

What Stagea model do you have Tom? I have some M35 bits here somewhere. What's your location?

At least they don't foul, just dry them off or let it sit for an hour.

You will probably need colder plugs anyway. Do you have the number of the ones you put in? I can get Bosch 1000's that drop straight in and idle perfectly for around $600 new, so don't pay too much for second hand ones, in fact I would be buying new anyway. Your mate is going to be pissed with you, it isn't an easy kit to fit. Probably easier to pull the engine. Any idea what boost you plan to run? Has the tuner worked on VQ's before?

Are you checking the fluid when warm, in park, with the engine running? It sounds low on fluid. Does it flare around tight corners?

I would be game to throw some cash on the line, what was the estimated price direct? I noticed most have wireless dongles included but some of the cheaper ones don't. If we can prove one works, it may even be worth trying the remap card they also offer.

Autobarn mate, or repco, bursons...

AEM you don't need to do free air calibrations on either.

Just drop 80-100% into the cold start enrichment under 20 degrees and you should be fine. I have found double the fuel is required on average for cold start from my experience.

Or an M35 stagea, better engine anyway.

It's not cheap, most of my mates run the AEM which is a good one. I have the Innovative, still going strong after 3 years. Both are around the $200 mark.

And she told you that when Aaron? Mmmmm.

I have most of the parts you required in my carport at the moment. Same color too. lol. I must admit mine hasn't stepped out on me yet, but I know it will one day when I am least expecting it. I bet it snapped out on you way too fast to catch, the limits of awd are harder to find but when you do...

The timing drop between gears definitely works, it is just too late for the shift, as in it drops the timing after the gearbox has changed. It makes for a weird power drop after the shift. We zeroed it all out in the end. It is understandable when you think about it, as the Fcon has no idea what the gearbox is doing, so it must work off the revs dropping or something. I changed to the Nulon fluid in mine, dropping the dextron III that Kewish put in there after the build. Surprising how much firmer it shifts, perhaps the Nulon is thinner filling the accumulators quicker? It positively thumps into second and third now causing all wheel chirps.

Exactly, even though I was promised it would fit as he had already sold two of them. It's easy to fit when someone else is doing the work though.

Someone left the door open again, daym wastlanders... It was the "stock" sized wheels that Stao just designed, only hassle was the chra was 21mm shorter meaning the compressor housing and everything hanging off it was 21mm further back. I won't be fitting another one of these.

No problem Dominic, glad to help. Did you get underneath and check it out? Not very happy with the way this turbo was installed, too many mods required to make it a feasible option. That said the stock like response felt good for an untuned engine. You are lucky I waived the bandaid tax, costs could have blown right out.

Gasket maker silicone.

You should only use the nissan fluid if it has the stock clutches, mixing fluids isn't recommended and as said the torque converter will still have a few litres in it you cant get out. I cleaned the filter with ethanol but petrol/kero would work well. Make sure you lay the filter bolts out in order, they will have to go back in the same hole they came out of. Run a thin bead if silicone around the pan gasket when you reassemble and try not to drive it until it cures. It would be a good idea to put down a plastic sheet first, you will make a mess.

I just filled in the forms, keen to hit up the island again and break into the 2 minute lap time. Get your entries in soon and save $30 before the 25th.

With all those tools you could have changed your own engine mounts... I hate you and your orange car.

I heard he wants to get rid of the car and drive the bluebird around instead.

Buy a spare and see how much material you can remove before hitting the fluid. I would guess the calliper is pretty thick at that point, you should be fine. It is only fluid pressure you would need to worry about imo as it isn't near the mounting point. That said, Duncan's idea is the better option.

I had some major slipping and jolting with my auto at Sandown last week, it turned out the mesh filter in the sump was completely blocked. I dropped the sump, removed and cleaned the filter off the valve body, and refilled with fluid, with no issues since. Shame I didn't clean it when I put the new converter in two weeks ago, I wasted over a bottle of synthetic fluid. I have noticed firmer changes after changing the fluid, the Dextron III that was originally in it from the rebuild must be thicker than the Nulon synthetic at operating temperature. The thinner fluid definitely firms up the shift by filling the accumulators quicker.