scotty nm35

Are the injectors stock, and not highflowed?

I love the vented bonnet.

Upgrading Artz?

Can you work out for the kids at home how much it will cool the intake air in the microsecond it has before it enters the cylinder, at the speed of sound? I doubt it would even register on your calculator. Yes the ethanol will cool the charge slightly in the bore but it is a minuscule amount, and would more help slow the air heating imo. (it definitely won't be cooling it down inside there at wot.) If you want to cool the intake charge you would need to spray the ethanol much further back in the intake to give it time to evaporate. I think if you are that worried about the intake temps by that point you have other issues. We are much better off trying to cool the bore, as that is going to produce more heat than any other part obviously. Direct injection of water into the bore on the exhaust stroke sounds like a better option to me. I will be trialling it soon on a high comp VQ25DD running e85.

Only once it's in the cylinder, not in the intake.

If you leave the wideband in petrol afr's you don't have to change anything. It will still be 14.7:1 as the wideband reads lambda anyway and converts it. Just changing injector size will get you running but mine requires 50% more fuel at cruise/light load and approx. 25% at wot. It isn't a set figure.

How can it lower intake temps, it is only sprayed on to the intake valves. Ethanol would definitely cool the pistons more for a given power output but that just gives you a reason to heat them up some more. I saw 900 degree temp in my manifold at Sandown running ethanol, if you push hard enough it still can still melt things, just at a much higher output.

It's an easy error on the Stagea too. It has happened to me a few times. lol.

You mean like this one? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Infinity-G35-2003-2004-CD-Stereo-Fascia-CT24NS09-/270718155547?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f080f3b1b#ht_2274wt_1393 There are a few options available, I have one here on an RS wreck too. What colour are you after though?

Boost will always drop off a little due to the pressure in the manifold skyrocketing and blowing the puck open, the spring only helps so much. Do you have a controller?

Weird graph with the converter locking up on the original run and staying locked up after, did you cut any wires or is that a result of playing with settings? How does she drive anyway? I'm sure you feel the torque drop off after 5k... Time for a highflow?

The second 'reg' is a fuel dampener. There is no point changing the regulator unless you have maxed out the injectors and are too cheap to buy larger ones.

Where's the graph? No excuses... Good result with the stock turbo mate.

I have seen it many times with the Turbosmart race Vband bov's, they are shipped with a soft spring and you need to replace it with a stiffer one. Probably just another way for turbosmart to make some more money out of you. I have the Turbosmart Kompact on mine and it had the same problem.

Nice, got any pics? How are you tuning it?

Most bov's are open at cruise due to the vacuum, unless they have the stiff spring fitted.

Ok, I have been buying the F90000267 pumps. These ones have no bleed holes and are completely sealed including the power wires. Yet to try them though.

Good to know, but which model did you install? Was it the e85 version FP859?

No, the input resistance of the unit will affect the value seen making it inaccurate. Just buy the new sensor if you want an accurate gauge. They are probably talking about making a circuit to feed a mirror signal.

GTR gauges? They aren't the same as M35 ones, or do you mean aftermarket?

f*kit, they haven't helped anyone around here and apparently are going broke thanks to their outdated policies. If they actually took a step back they would see people are craving their gear but either can't afford it, can't find it and can't tune it. Of course people will try and find ways around the problem.

Yeh, that will be it Dale. I just wish they were stainless, that's what I paid for, how can they supply them with gal coated mild and call them a stainless flex...

Need a picture, ours only need the lip turned up to clear the bar. Sounds like a piece of the exhaust is touching. Don't you have a jack?

Power shouldn't change much but torque will. Has anyone else run their car up in 3rd to see the difference?

No, I dont think we have seen a setup like that. Its a big flowing turbo, usually too big for a 2.5 but it may be good with the stroker kit. What size will it be taken out to? I assume you are sticking with 98? It should hit over 400kw I guess and hit good boost around 4K (if you don't go too big on the rear housing.)