scotty nm35

Without first hearing the noise I couldn't be sure but I doubt it is the cam advance mechanism, they are nearly bullet proof. They do make a decent click noise though as the engine revs past about 2500 revs. below that they shouldn't be working at all. Did he check the cam signal like Alex mentioned? If the solenoid is getting energised then the mechanism is working as it should and the problem is possibly with the ecu or wiring.

Drain the tank using the return line, fill with 98 and switch maps. It doesn't take long if you set it up right. Or 60L subtank in the spare wheel well?

^3km from an e85 pump and still complains. lol. They will only roll it out if it sells well. Get on it and more pumps will come.

That's the issue Mark, not many cars have a good enough setup to attain those sort of figures, and that's why it got a bad name. Stock manifolds or 3 inch exhausts aren't going to cut it, we are talking 4 inch system here, and how many would run that on the road. I can say after running both the GTX3076 isn't quite as responsive as the 71 but spools in a similar fashion, with approx. 40kw higher potential imo.

I had a similar issue when one of the rear calliper sliding pins bent, not sure how it happened or why but it locked one pad onto the disk continuously. I would be checking it out before driving it too far.

No problem, that little socket set came in handy for me too. I must have a cast iron gut, the sausages and coffee got me through the day.

My temps rose around 100c from dump to manifold. I have mine mounted in a stainless pipe, no issues with it coming loose. Is there a reason other fabricators aren't using schedule 10 stainless for manifolds? I agree, an egt sensor is a useful tool and can help calm the tuner's mind on what the exhaust temps are like. What worries me about multiple sensors is their accuracy, not sure I would want to tune with them unless I tested them first, nor connected to the ecu for live adjustments either, especially long term with potential damage and carbon buildup...

PM'd. Just block both sides of the pipe for now if you need the car temporarily.

I have a spare, $20 plus shipping and it's yours. I can't say I have ever seen one snap, I don't usually try and remove the hose from it though...

No worries, looks like I need to go back there myself, the gearbox isn't sounding good. Did I finally break it?

Mine saw 118c and I have a 30 row with a 14 inch thermo on it. Here is a few Aaron took.

Very happy to run a 1:32 in the whale, shame the gearbox played up in the last sessions. Where's the pics?

+1 ^^^ Fun day.

PM'd

No issues with yours Nick? I guess so. Is yours stock turbo still?

Lol, talk me up much Aaron? I can make what you need but it isn't on the shelf, custom parts only. You will struggle to find something Vband anywhere I assume. I would need the car here unfortunately. PM me if you are interested.

They only checked it, and told me the codes, they were in english and self explanatory as I remember. Give them a call and ask, tell them Scott sent you down. The tcu doesn't show the codes with a malfunction lamp, that is for the engine only I think.

Probably when you had the Stagea but only once you were off your P's and before all the mods? lol.

FYP.

Shorter runners mean lost midrange/response but should give more top end if the length is tuned right. Is that a gain?

Who, me? I thought I was in Associated under 3L? You coming down still Aaron? Bring us a sammich b*tch.

Nothing if I can make use of your chair. lol. Rain would dampen the mood but it won't be stopping those of us with awd ripping it up.

If you don't want it to drop psi you will need to upgrade the spring tension in the actuators to your desired boost level or as close as possible. 1.5 psi isn't much of a drop though. Most people are happy with that.

Kewish auto's in Dandenong have a reader, it picked up all my transmission codes, I think it was a Diagun unit?

Just before the turbo is the best place as that is the most restrictive part of the exhaust, hence the hottest. I have mine in the adapter for the GTX, you may have to tap the turbine housing on the stock turbo just below the flange. Good luck either way, there is nowhere accessible on either side. The other option is to run it in the dump pipe and add approx 100 degrees to the temp for loss through the turbo...