scotty nm35

Meh, Cosworth might be bling but you wouldn't buy it on their F1 results. lol.

After 25 years fixing electronics I have learned it nearly always lets you down, especially in extreme conditions ie. automotive. I try to put as little faith in it as I can get away with. Mechanical solutions are where it's at as long as it doesn't complicate things too much.

Dont let all the wind out of their sails Cam. lol. My stock m35 ran 130awkw, I imagine a manual V35 would be similar. All this HP talk gets me confused.

Just ask him if he will replace you engine if it blows, I know what the answer will be. lol.

Try another matched set of tyres first, as if the fronts are slightly larger or smaller rolling diameter shuddering can occur.

What's wrong with black? You will make Aaron cranky...

So you need to find out the model of Infinity and find the part number for it... Or replace it with a different style and possibly get a retune.

80mm alloy pipe won't fit well in the stock configuration, and I can't find mandrels in that size. As it is the same size as the AFM it just seems smart to keep it similar for flow, and 80mm silicone is readily available now. 3 inch pipe may just fit to the stock airbox with alloy donut bends but there is no way (currently) I can make them the same every time, manufacture them remotely and guarantee they will fit. It's quite hard to make a product and ship it across the country without making sure it is consistent, I can only do that with the lobster cuts. If you needed shiny mandrels you could take your car to any of the fabricators on here, they would be happy to make a stainless or alloy version for you as would I, or make it yourself by all means. Will it perform better? No, it's only for looks, and if you don't follow the few basic rules in construction you will have all manner of issues with it. (unless you go map sensor and ditch the AFM) PM me with your ideas if you like and I will run through the basics. Stay away from silicone bends as when hot and soft it will suck in and put you in the same position you were with the stock intake.

Widebands are not the most stable of gauges, I hope you don't find that out the hard way. The only way I would rely on it for ecu self tuning is to run a pair of sensors with some sort of controller that cut off the feedback if there was a discrepancy between them. As a gauge for piece of mind, quick road tunes and to back up the dyno wideband data they are great.

I tried edge, it was way too thick for the VQ. I will be sticking with the Synx6000 ($37.50 per5L) when the Sougi 6000 runs out.

So what happens when the wideband goes faulty and reads full rich? That's the issue with electronics, they are never reliable enough to trust a tune on their operation imo.

True, and it's your decision. I don't know why ebay sellers expect 100% positive feedback these days, no business practice is perfect. There are always a few mess-ups, and its how they are dealt with that makes you a good business imo.

I generally don't recommend welding an old muffler onto a new system, is it stainless? (mild you wouldn't bother as the internals would be rusted badly) just make sure all the carbon is cleaned up around the weld and sanded back or it will become a brittle poor quality weld. Most of the Jap systems are metric, yours may be 80mm, so they don't weld well to the imperial pipe sizes we sell here without reducers etc. Why don't you sell the system and find a suitable new muffler, or go with the new JUN setup if that is what you want.

So why do you need to plumb the wideband into the fcon if the narrowband is wired in also? Do you want to log the data? I just drilled a hole big enough for the sensor to slide through in the tunnel and stuck a bung there, that way I didn't have to drag the wire through the engine bay, and also the electronics are nicely tucked under the carpet instead of in the hot engine bay. The innovative units are prone to overheating and failing.

I don't see how the seller is responsible for delivery times, even DHL express 1-3 day shipping is only to our shore, not including domestic shipping.

I was able to run 300v with no issues, perhaps because the oil temp in the VQ is up around 90 degrees... Is it SN rated though? That is what you need to look for in an oil now.

Aaron, you took last week off work sick to come over here and make me sick, you're a prick.

I guess so, do you have the map sensor on the emu? I haven't used the communication cable for the informeter as it was connected to the Vmanage, perhaps that is why, not the external sensor harness.

You are thinking into it too much, just get in , warm the car up and take it for a hard drive through the hills for as long as possible. The majority of the water/ethanol will evaporate especially as you don't have an oil cooler. As it has been sitting so long you could just drop the oil, not a hard job buddy. Go the Synx6000 this time, let me know what it's like.

Fyp.

Why would you put it in the stock location though, doesn't it need to be 20 inches down the pipe like the innovative ones?

The billet wheel is the compressor on the GTX range, it is made from an alloy billet. They use the same cast Inconel turbine as the rest of the range.

There is plenty on ebay but I bought the proflow 100 micron stainless mesh ones, no hassles with the Orings yet. A bit pricey though...

I have no o2 feedback, No knock feedback and mixture control is set by the tuner, in the map. e85ftw. I also just ditched the boost controller for 27 psi of springs but I do obviously have the map sensor and air temp. (which I ran in the pipe before the throttle for accuracy.)

That's a lot of electronics to rely on Ryan...