scotty nm35

I haven't received anything, no wonder I have no friends. *Forever alone*

It depends on the pressure and also the piston location in the manifold. Apparently Turbosmart guarantee it will hold the stated boost due to countless hours of bullshit bullshit testing. Perhaps on their test jig, not in the 'real world'. I am interested to see what my new 26psi springs turn out to hold. Hopefully I have time for a squirt tomorrow.

Yeh man, been using that one for years, local to Edge too which is good as you chug through the ethanol on the dyno.

Any chance you could show us this setup? I am planning a mechanical boost solution myself, Turbosmart can't supply more than 26psi of spring in their new external gates either. My blitz DSBC with MAC valve seems to have run out of resolution and can't control boost (spikes sending the tune into overboost protection.) Plus you need a degree to tune the damn thing correctly. Pneumatic control sounds much better...

Oh no Cam, you left the door open and the wasteland came in. Thread is doomed....

So are all the Stagea's that come over. As the k's are 'fiddled' with constantly and the extremely poor servicing over in Japan, they could go at any time. If your turbo is noisy and sounds like a T88 spooling, you have a few months left at best. If you are worried about the turbo's longevity, clean the oil feed banjo bolt in the block, it only has a 1mm restrictor and blocks up sometimes with oil gunk.

Not much, the rocker cover will deform if you do them up too tight, the hardest part is making sure the rubber seal is in place before you tighten them. Use a 1/4 inch ratchet so you don't get much leverage. When doing the plenum bolts, just remember how much force it took to crack them and do the reverse. The only bolts I torqued when rebuilding the engine were the head studs and the cam caps (as they are the critical ones).

Cam was asked to do this group buy wasn't he? Why would you essentially try and waste the hours of time he has put into this Paul, for the sake of a couple of dollars? Seems to be a common occurrence with you, just stop and think before you post or PM as not to upset people, he is just trying to help. I am sure out of the thousands of dealers over in the states there would be one that will undercut the price a little, why don't you call them all... Cam is most definitely the Technoviking, not to be messed with. lol.

I used to use a pinch bar on the heatshield, still do if the bolt is rusted into the housing.

If you can do all that in 2 hours I need you working for me, it takes me longer than that to remove the fuel lines sometimes.

So you drained the aircon and removed the engine and gearbox to do a turbo swap? Bugger that. It took two of us 6 hours just to remove an engine, I can swap the turbo's in less time than that.

The gauge is pinned on boost, definitely 50/50, (it used to only show 10 on accel, now with the extra power it sees 50.) These guys are correct in that it senses slip and applies the lockup on the dyno, and the gauge is on it's usual 50. (end of scale) Someone come for a passenger lap at Sandown and record it...

Yeh mate, I will PM you.

lol, yep.

Drop in and give me next months pay check as well.

Perhaps GTR's run a different controller, in awd the Stagea definitely runs around 50% (4th gear wot) according to the dyno. On the road could be different, perhaps the gtr doesn't work off engine load but more Gforce from the sensor?

Personally I believe any modification should be tuned for, especially a turbo. The stock computer has no idea the modification has been done so usually runs rich to compensate causing poor response and bad fuel economy.

Get on to Craig, he may be able to fit you in. If you go Hypergear make sure he doesn't put large wheels in, ask for stock sized or similar. Otherwise buy a S/H stock turbo and cross your fingers.

Nice, only BMW's to catch at the moment, hopefully the 26psi wastegate springs will get me around them on the straight. lol.

They both should be, the stock Stagea one I used ran 30psi fine once I plugged up the 4mm bleed hole with a grub screw. Now I have fitted the Turbosmart Kompact plumb back with a stiff spring. Its better but requires maintenance/lubing unlike the factory ones.

He has tuned a few M35's, mine is the only white one though. I'm there every second weekend as I can't stop fiddling with my setup. My car runs r34 gtr drivetrain, other than the gearbox. As the transfer case is a clutch pack I would have thought it was a straight 50/50 split on power, but from my experience the dyno displays slightly more to the front wheels than that. No idea why. As I stated earlier he sets up the Edge dyno with .7 correction in awd to keep it in line with other awd dyno's in the area. As he runs the rwd cars at .9 for the same reason you will lose 20% off the bat in AWD. Bit of a pita for me as I swap rwd/awd constantly, and makes it hard to know what the gains are.

It was definitely a pita to fit, the turbo had to be bolted to the manifold with the gates and screamer in place then bolted to the head. With a better wastegate placement it would have made the job a lot easier but that is how 6boost manufactures his split manifolds.

I sometimes wish he would, unfortunately Cihan doesn't want to be known as the happy dyno joint. A gtx35 isnt going to get you over the 450kw mark in awd on that dyno, perhaps you should look at the GT37 if the number is that important?

It wont crack if the weld is done right as there is very little expansion on such a small part. I prefer to buy the stainless Tial or Tial copy housings and modify them with stainless schedule 10 as welding cast to mild steel steampipe is a little harder. Cost wise, if you get a Tial copy housing and get me to cut a port, it would work out cheaper than a Garrett rear and flow much more freely. There have been no issues so far with any of the housings I have modified, even with track work and hard dyno tuning. It's a great budget option as it will save you buying an aftermarket manifold.

AWD ftw. I don't think it would be that neutral in rear drive. lol. For a turbo like that I would at least need the turbo here to jig it up, i'm not entirely sure it will fit as my GTX3076 only clears by a few mm. (the GT35 has a larger compressor housing) You would probably need to buy a Tial stainless vband rear housing and get it hacked up due to space constraints, and mount the wastegate off that. PM me for more info.