scotty nm35

No need to justify it, you do what you can to stay alive on a bike. That guy is a little overboard, but back in the day... I don't know how I am still here.

Yeh right.

Swap gearboxes and return to stock line pressures? It was never going to be nice and smooth like factory, mine clunks into 2nd sometimes but who cares, it is handling 350kw.

Not only better boost control, better exhaust flow which means more powah. No-one can see my turbo so I guess looks are out of the question.

Not much at the moment, odd fab jobs ftw. lol.

I'm just hoping I can run the factory computer for lockup control again, stock stator this time so it might be lag city without the 3-4000 stall. It might all be in vain.

I forgot to mention, I received these springs in the mail today, should hold the gate shut till around 26 - 30 psi. Install tomorrow along with the thermo fan controller. Anyone for a 3.5 inch dump? And the new torque converter, packing triple Pathfinder lockup clutches. Not sure when I will get time to drop the gearbox again...

You will hardly notice the difference between them, stick with the journal, it's easier to rebuild. What happened to your previous turbo? If the bearings failed and smashed the rear wheel it could be a good idea to make sure the oil feed line isn't blocked.

Not sure on the bar yet, I can't see how the handling can get any better actually. 2nd gear coming out of MG corner at PI and all 4 just gripped and took off, no front pushing and no rear stepping out, totally neutral and far beyond my expectations. You may have a hard time getting the GT35 to fit as the HKS flange adapter steps down to T2 an I'm guessing your GT35 rear is T3.

Just buy a length of one inch alloy angle locally and cut it up, not a hard task.

Hylomar spray... I even coated the head gasket.

What is the gap like on the rear wheel from the housing? It looks to have huge clearance, is it just the photo? That's only a baby turbine, should be responsive. Good choice buddy. My special tools... Cost : $0

It depends how the dyno is setup, I lost 30kw at least as he set up the correction at .7 for awd and .9 for rear. Makes it hard to judge the gains. Cihan knows his shit, if you chose the right combination you should be set.

+1^^ I went from a quiet sedate legalis to a loud droney pos by changing to a large housing turbo, the stock housing will lower the exhaust noise noticeably compared to a .82 or similar.

x 11ty.

Could be pump, could be sticky injectors. I would buy a 342 Walbro or Deatschwerks and running a relay for it to run 14v. If you need injectors I have plenty here. Sorry to hear mate but these things happen I guess.

So ban it from the drivers side.

As the highest pressure point it makes sense to me to run the gate off the housing which is why I talked Artz into it. The idea for my setup, (if I ever get around to making it) is to get the flow straight through the turbo, cutting out the back of the scroll and making the wastegate the priority when it is open. With twin scroll just run the splitter up to the gate and the same will apply. Too many setups I see favour the turbo at the expense of the wastegate flow which would mean too much power is lost up top imo.

JD's could entice me. lol.

Not really, it cost him around 2 grand for the full system, plus he had intake and cooler piping made. I would think if you can get the gate to seal the two halves a single wastegate would work just as well, as long as it was big enough and had good flow.

A strut brace would make very little difference to the handling on any of our cars, as the strut top isn't taking any side load like the earlier Nissans. We have upper wishbones taking the load, and our engine bays are braced/double walled. The weak points are the main bolts under the chassis, where the large suspension bushes are located, like the main castor arm bush. These are flogging out badly after 10 years which shows the amount of load they deal with.

Its a bit pointless when the extinguisher bracket is the weakest part. I think they just yanked on it to make sure it was sturdy, it didn't move.

I only fitted them on the drivers side for now, mainly because I don't sit in the passenger seat often. I tried out the bitch seat today and it definitely needs spacing up 10 or so mm at the front.

Not a bad job, at least the angle promotes good flow, but damn its tiny. I would have gone for a much larger gate. What is it with everyone running 38mm/40mm gates, no love for the 50's and 60's? There is power to be made there... Here is an exhaust I worked on recently, Not an easy job but it got the results. 0.82 split GT3076. Aircon lines remain intact.

Bellmouth = bigger = more flow. Pretty simple. Sick of all this merging the gasses bullshit, either go bellmouth or man up and go the external gate.