scotty nm35

So don't buy one, your Eopinion is not important to the other people chasing chassis stiffening mods. These have been engineered by a reputable Japanese company and tested using complex load sensing equipment, with data supplied. Perhaps you should have compared the massive improvement the front underbody brace made to my M35's handling. Read the thread, we were all amazed by the difference in handling and turn in. More chassis stiffening please Craig.

Here is mine, it took about 20 minutes to make. Aaron's is the same.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Turbo-Oil-Drain-Gasket-Garrett-BB-GT25-GT28-GT30-GT35-/280922842352?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41684e64f0#ht_1622wt_1392

Just scour the papers for an old tractor and swap the gearboxes over.

They were blue after the runs, no smoke though. There was only 1/4 of the track to cool down before they ushered us back to the pits... The whale does weigh 1800kg though. lol.

Hopefully the 4000's I got with the new T3 slots will be better, the only issue so far was a little shuddering when red hot at PI, perfect stopping normally though.

I have a spare open face, just in case the scrutineers knock back the old Doohan Arai as it has a few chips in the paint. And another spare Arai for mates somewhere if you need to borrow one. As mentioned you can buy helmets pretty cheap now, less than $200 for a good one.

I'm just tossing up whether I should buy the 48's Traction have on special or just run the KU36's again, there might be another day left in them, I hope... Mine are the same, Stainless M6 cap screws with nylock nuts, no washers on 3mm alloy strap. The scrutineers were wrapped with the install, compared to some of the other ones they had seen last Saturday.

Here is a pic of the intake I make, the bov enters on a much tighter angle pointing towards the compressor of the turbo. Yours can work if you angle the fitting a little. Drop in if you like and I can explain it better, I'm only in Hampton Park.

I will be there, and Artz, I was hoping Aaron would take his skirt off for the day and bring the Jaffa down too. Get on his back...

Someone mentioned they went to install the pumps at Eltham and found they were fiberglass tanks? I would have thought they would have to change the tank anyway, I guess they just put a liner in the steel ones.

Mine heats up much worse in city driving as there is no under car cooling, on the open road it takes a lot longer. I still have to find a nice 6an trans cooler for the return and then find space to put it, I also need to fit the ethanol content sensor in the return line somewhere. Always so much to do and no time to do it. Just feel the tank, mine felt hot to touch last time I was at Calder.

I need the one at San Remo to stock it for the PI track days, and a couple up the Hume so I can get to Sydney when I need to. Albury and Yass would do nicely thanks.

Lol, scrap heap zorst was crap Artz, come down for a nice shiny one, what about alloy for the rear Roy? See you there.

It needs to dump towards the turbo, neither of those pipes do. If any returned air flows back up the pipe past the afm it will cause the problem you are having. Where are you located? Surely there is a fabricator close by that can angle the return a little? Or take it back to the shop that made it?

PM'd, thanks Craig.

Lol, detonation? Are you kidding? My stock VQ25 was given a hiding at PI last weekend, The GTX 3076 overboosting to 2.7 bar until I dropped it back to 1.8. Never a sign of det and the exhaust temps were fine as the engine is tuned to over 3 bar. Pump United ftw. Better keep paying $5 a litre... You don't know what that 96c pump fuel will do...

Should be nice and quiet = moar track time.

WD40 would do wonders for your clutch. lol. Take it back to the mechanic that installed it, let him listen.

I'm in for this one, I assume the associate under 3L is the class I need to enter?

Well the blue bov return hose definitely isn't pointing towards the compressor, can you take it back to the fabricator and get him to face it away from the afm a little more?

That sounds like the wiring setup I installed, slightly overkill but at least you never need to do it again. The fuse is to protect the cable, and the pump may draw close to that on startup seeing as it draws up to 18 amps in operation. I would go for a 30 A fuse at least, actually I went with 2 x 30A fuses for my twin 342 pumps. I need a cooler for the flow the twins are putting out, (similar flow to the 400L) but it takes over an hour of driving to heat the fuel, are you doing long distance driving with your car?

So you don't have too much fuel circulating and heating up when you don't need the flow. Anyone running ethanol needs the flow.

Can you get a picture of the intake and how the bov line joins into it?

You have ARX spec, unlike Ironpaw's.