scotty nm35

Does Florida have many e85 pumps, or is that only sold over the other side of the country? If there was any chance of running it I would be going 1000cc top feeds at least, otherwise 525's will do the job. Pumps, the 255 will be fine for petrol up to 400 odd kw. I just sent some 1000cc Xspurts to Florida actually, to Sullivan Racing...

I was going to buy the golds, but I was advised the reds are just as good. Golds are more for custom installs apparently, where they don't make reds to suit. Both have similar valving just with no external reservoir on the reds, and both are track focused, not nice to hit potholes with on road. The PB times were at PI where laps are closer to two minutes, not one like Wakefield etc.

255 Walbro will flow 400kw give or take on 98.

Fuel pump trigger? No idea, just wondering what the stock ecu signals go to the back... If you can't find the original wiring diagram, I wouldn't start that kind of job.

Some cars it will definitely make a difference. I notice a few psi usually on the Stagea. It's a 4mm hole, it can't leak that much air back to the compressor, but the more boost, the more escapes, and the faster the turbo shaft needs to spin to counteract it. Why would you ever want it there? For drivability only.

Only seems to be an issue on 34's, but what are the actual differences between the two RB25 motors that would make any discernible difference? I realize the combustion chamber is smaller, could it be carbon buildup? Or perhaps the traction throttle plate is closing causing lower power figures? Tao is trying to get to the bottom of it too. Unfortunately if you don't want a return flow, and you don't want to make your car defectable by cutting holes, you will need custom piping with a cross flow cooler. (either up past the radiator or u bend behind the cooler.)

Probably misinformation anyway. I managed 6 seconds going from evo bilsteins to MCA reds, and I was running 8lb less boost. No doubt the Bilsteins were well past their prime though, so it's not an accurate comparison..

Racepace is just a refurbished old Tein rebuilt by Shockworks isn't it? Why not just get Shockworks then? I was quoted $1600 odd for them. MCA blue is $1500, but there are many more models above the base one. I don't think Bilstein's compare to either of those coilover setups personally, but you may find it easier to pass a roadside inspection...

Yeh, I used to grub screw the stock ones, but they are getting too old now, and the Turbosmart product works better without farting.

Looking at the Apple Car Play units myself, not sure if the Alpine or Pioneer is the go as yet, probably the Alpine unit as the screen doesn't pop out for DVD's. (I am worried it will hit the gear shifter). No app required to run these, just instant mirroring when you plug the phone in. Using Siri to open apps and control functions seems to work very well, until the app is open of course... More app development is required.

Depends on the spring used Mark, Turbosmart Kompact recirc valves have a few to choose from, they act differently depending on the car.

With the mess of turbulence coming out the back of the turbo I don't think perfect transitions matter too much. Get the exhaust out as quickly using the largest tube possible, with the least amount of bends works for me, with gentle transitions preferably. Sometimes a decent split dump just can't work, due to space constraints, or the costs involved in running two pipes where one should be. I have never seen a good internal gate split dump design, they all step out from the gate, then back into the hole in the flange, causing flow restrictions at the step down. I have never seen one where the merge was any good either, I would be die grinding them out to the size of the gate pipe after welding if I made one, but you don't want it merging into the small dump diameter either. When I merge an external gate I make sure the pipe after it is similar (or greater) in area than the two merging pipes, then step it down gently later if required. Hardly any split dumps on the market do that, most can't even get a decent merge angle.

Not sure what the internals of those are like, very similar in the motor i am sure. I will ask my wholesaler tomorrow if they know the differences other than the sealed connector.

Not the first DW pump to flog out. Stick to genuine Walbro's.

Probably better to spray some WD40 up into the turbine pickup, just to coat the metal parts.

No, sorry Would need the part number or just check the connector end.

I have never sold the non sealed connector version, but the e85 pump is all anodised internally with a plastic impeller. The only problem I have seen with one was corrosion on the magnets from testing it with water, it was seized solid. I can't imagine there would be any issues with yours, and a quick test it still runs would be enough to run it up on the dyno safely imo.

Is it the sealed connector E85 Walbro you linked above? The non sealed petrol version is what most call the 400L, these have major issues with e85, hence the need for an e85 tolerant version not long after.

The rattling of cats has nothing to do with the brace, more to do with having old ceramic catalytics.

I suggest not leaving the fuel cap off in the rain for best moisture protection.

It would cost less to buy a new Walbro than get it accurately tested with shipping both ways I suspect. The flow won't change much anyway, the only part that would fail is the DC motor, as it corrodes in moisture. If anyone is running a 30 amp relay with these, you may want to upgrade to a larger 70 to100a+ relay. I have seen so many 30 amp relays flog out on 460L Walbro's, usually they take other components with them.

I ran 2 year old fuel at 32 psi, it wasn't stored correctly as the lines were open in the workshop before I drained the tank. Afr's were perfect, ethanol content read correctly. I wouldn't want to do the same with 98, that's for sure. Who is spreading this misinformation, and have they actually tested it, or just making a suggestion to get out of warranty claims?

You heard wrong.

I has turbo. No twin cat brace on mine. I have removed the single cat braces though, for every dump pipe I have fitted, and that's a lot of dump pipes. The exhaust won't suddenly droop and fall off if that's what you want to know.

Copper plugs won't like being gapped down quite that far, only iridiums will handle that gap I think. Iridiums are more expensive to buy initially but they last 10 times as long.