scotty nm35

Factory anti car jacking, I had it on all my previous imports but the newer cars don't seem to have that feature anymore. Hopefully its as easy to bypass as you say.

Did you change the fuel filter again? I would be cleaning the lines and tank completely then drying the lines with compressed air. The injectors have a filter in the rail end, perhaps these are blocked? Don't keep stomping on it to test, its probably running lean.

It won't even work on the more modern Nissan's with obd2 plugs, what makes you think it will even plug in to the consult port?

One external gate is fine if you run the splitter right up to the gate valve. I just don't think there is room to effectively flow the gasses on internally gated housings, other than the BW, they nailed it, but it makes the rear housing too large.

You want to re-thread the tank? It is just the screws that strip I think, just get some off a v35 wreck or something? I have a few here if you get stuck. I have to look at redesigning my fuel system, specifically inside the tank. I need an in-tank surge assembly using another pump to feed the twins in some kind of container, hopefully that will allow me to run the tank to a lower level without running lean around corners.

The oil line to the turbo could be split but I think you are right, the washers for the banjo may need to be replaced. I may be driving up to Sydney this week, want me to fix it for you? Swap you for a cruise install. lol.

Just buy a MAC valve off ebay for $50, half the price of the Haltech ones. I have a few here but they have 24v coils on them. (new 12v coils are $30)

And fuel pump, 1000's, Billet compressor wheel...

Or the cam sensor Leon, they leak all the time.

What was the 60 foot?

If you are running the stock ecu you must run the stock bov or you may have issues. What's wrong with the one on the car? If its damaged just look for a s/h replacement.

Any chance the throttle plate was icing up? Do you have coolant running through it?

Have you tried a new battery? This cold weather can make them fail... I would guess the power through the dash light to the alternator may not be wired up correctly or open circuit? I seem to remember it need to be connected to charge correctly? I would be taking it to an auto elec.

It really needs a stronger spring inside it, so you don't loose travel. Pre-loading is only a little effective because you aren't changing the spring rate, just bumping up the start point of the travel.

Good luck buddy, still a few teething problems with mine, I'm not sure I want to hit 200kph on the new disks/pads, that and I had a couple of cooler clamps let go today. I will try to have it ready for the next one.

Most ecu's will add up to 10-15% based on the stock o2 reading, I have seen up to 50% ethanol run fine in a factory car. If the afr's on your wideband look good you should be fine, as long as the injectors aren't at 100%...

Why didn't you blank the whole receipt out Brendan? Reeks of a US govt conspiracy. lol.

leaky or split cooler piping?

What model? GTR, gtt, gt?

Too many mad skids bro?

Have you checked the gear linkage? Something may have snapped it from underneath...

The thermostat is just next to the gold plug, if you remove the gold plug you can either drill and tap it or buy the Greddy 1/8bspt adapter plug sold separately.

They were fine on the last set of 4000's back when I had the Sumitomo's, hopefully they are great again.

The issue is I still don't have a product to test, I can't find one suitable. I know mine isn't legal. I will take you up on that offer when I sort it though if you don't mind... The best idea I could come up with is to run a secondary 2 inch system/muffler after the diff, with a spring loaded flap in the large pipe, to block it on cruise and idle. Or perhaps an electronic butterfly valve like below? I also have a helmholtz chamber here I designed that I want to try. Anyway, I guess this conversation should be moved to its own thread, sorry mods.

I just fitted the DBA club spec 4000's all round with the new T3 slot design. New A1rm's on the front and HPX on the rear, thanks for the good price GSL. lol Should be good to go for the next track day at PI once they are bed in, hopefully by the weekend too as I was thinking of heading down to Calder...