scotty nm35

I have a similar setup using Walbro's, I should have run two gauges though, one in each line, as it made it very difficult to see the faulty pump's pressure dropping off.

Take the solenoid from the system and see if it holds actuator pressure first. The Mac valve has a bung in the outlet, is it a bleed filter? Make sure nothing is blocked by blowing through it. Usually the outlet is left open but if its a filter you should be fine. You should be able to test the whole system using a compressor with the reg turned down to target the boost level. Also the Haltech should have a frequency signal you can pump down the solenoid output to simulate its operation, not sure how to do it but I have seen it done many times when setting up the systems. Sometimes if the highflow is too large for the rear housing the wastegate hole needs to be opened right up, otherwise it will overboost continually.

Over 300.

I agree, you will end up never going back to 98 anyway once you have felt the powerz. You can feel good everytime you get on the gas too, its green fuel, carbon neutral so your'e doing the planet a favour dropping that skid.

This would be better. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1972-Nissan-Skyline-Hakosuka-2000GT-Red-M-Coupe-/280854798483?_trksid=p4340.m8&_trkparms=algo%3DMW%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D12%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D299449631980120901#ht_1992wt_1392

No problem. I will be contacting the wholesaler I bought the Walbro's from tomorrow, hopefully they can find out if its a faulty pump or a design flaw. I definitely won't be recommending them anymore. What's the bet the new Walbro 416L acts the same? I may have to do some testing of my own...

+1. ^^^ Don't worry, petrol is slowly running out.

Perhaps on rb's and with hd actuators fitted already? I found the bleed hole was way too big. They are nothing on a HD actuator though, especially if the manifold pressure is getting up there, as it just blows the puck open. The Turbosmart one seemed a little better to me, (smaller bleed hole) but a good electronic boost controller gave a noticeable gain. Personally I would run both a HD actuator and a good EBC.

Daleo, I need a hand with mine too if you're free. I got JD cans.........

I don't mind Lainy, I like talking to other people. With the car at my house I should be able to get parts shipped quickly, not taking 2 or 3 months like 'other' members. lol.

'The compressor is maxed' equates to 'The compressor cant flow any more air in the current configuration without creating excessive heat causing loss of power.' I think with an uncompromised setup using 3 inch short cooler pipes, the best flowing cooler around with water spray, 5 inch side pipe, screamer, ported with cams, manifold etc the 3071 may hit 400 perhaps. In the real world we are compromised obviously, noise and height restrictions, lag worries, restrictive intakes, each step back you lose power but it's a road car at the end of the day. I like that every person craves a different setup, each build I am part of requires custom design and r+d and trialling new ideas will always be beneficial even if there are no gains. Speaking of new ideas, this is the VQ block cooler I designed. It is similar to the 'Pathfinder" cooling bypass mod but modified to suit an easy install and fitment to any VQ block. I have been testing it out with surprising results, hopefully the logging data will show a similar lowering of temps. The main benefit of this being easy cooing system bleeding which was the main thing I was after, the thread will attach to a ball valve, to which a funnel could be added for easy filling and air purge. These cars are a pita to bleed stock and I wonder if my head gasket wouldn't have failed if this was in place oem. I haven't worked out a final cost for it yet, I will start a thread on it soon if anyone is interested.

More carbon in the exhaust stream would probably account for that extra response. I had the same result when I changed.

Lol. Don't crack gate... Don't crack gate...

Wont work, just get the informeter touch in from Japan.

I am buddy.

You can pre-book Calder? Im keen to see the mph too, and if I can pre spool this setup. I noticed there was a 3037 result of 360kw in RB land the other day but that was with the t3 rear, not sure what your housing is yet, perhaps it would make around the same being external gate also?

Not sure, I think its good for over 360 on a good setup but how often do you see the coin spent? Stock cams, manifolds and internal gates just don't cut it. I will come and keep you company one cold Calder night. When is the next one? I will need another sucker to sit in the stands, take video and freeze to death. Any takers?

I have another in the new wreck, when it stops getting raped... Cmon Craig.

I agree, it doesn't help with mod progress comparisons. 20% more correction would mean 1.2 x the power figure, or 370ish. Too close to 499hp for me to try for anymore... The rods... lol.

I wouldn't have used Silicone spray, you will never get the sh*t off the pulleys. The only thing worse than that would be Belt grip (makes me shudder just saying the name)

Small hot spark = less powerz too

Sounds like the t3 exhaust gasket, I have had a few like that. Could be the front wheel rubbing though. Need a replacement stock turbo? It could be a better option if you don't want to highflow...

You fit it and I will test it. lol. pitfa to fit.

Definitely, mine did the same thing today on the dyno, changed coils, gapped plugs, no change. Ended up being one of the pos Walbro 342's not pumping properly. It seems they need to be fully submerged to operate at maximum flow, unless its just faulty... I was hoping the deatschwerks didn't have the same design flaw as this fault was occurring at 1/3 tank.

A little too much midrange, its making some funny surge noises at small throttle openings while coming on to boost. Glad its got the surge slots.