scotty nm35

I am, but its a shame the figure didn't show what it feels like to drive. I never wanted to go backward. lol.

I run 1 bar of spring, then use the mac valve to push boost pressure on to the top of the gate, helping hold it down. Works better with a 5 port mac valve like mine but the 3 port ones can be setup like that too. I can hold any boost now.

It depends if you like rwd... I wouldn't want to leave it for more than a month or two, there was a fair bit of crap in the splined hole of mine when I decided to refit the shaft, took a while to clean out and regrease.

Well, few problems today. It ran up fine, he did a fair bit of low end tuning first with no issue. Water level didn't drop, temps were under control and dropped back as soon as he backed off. All looked sweet until this weird missfire developed. Lucky there was a donor VQ25dd at the shop, I swapped some coilpacks around and found it wouldn't fix the issue so next I checked and gapped the new plugs. Again no issue with them. We decided to check the fuel side and found one of my Walbro's wasn't pumping properly causing it and after topping up the tank all was fixed. Looks like I am upgrading the pumps again... The tuning continued, we decided on a safe 26psi tune which in AWD and with extra correction produced 310kw. I may drop the shaft and push for a good number some time later, once I am sure the engine is fine, but for now the car feels very strong and great to drive on the road. Definitely faster than before. I have ordered a new set of 4000 DBA disks with A1RM pads for the Brembo's, that should sort out the brakes, then its ready for Phillip Island when I can get there.

I ditched the spacer. Ouch, How big are you going? Whatever you do, dont go to that Stagea HKS bro garage joint. (heard bad things). lol.

Nice work Artz.

Aaron, you dropping in to see the white whale on the dyno afterwards? Don't think I will make the Bolte.

lol. Get in line buddy.

I got the passenger seat fitted today and cleaned the interior quickly, it's got to look its best for the dyno tomorrow. Also a pic of the stock looking engine bay. The cover makes a difference.

Parinoid. Its one of the best setups on the market, don't skimp on the cooler though, go as big as you can. I got my dash 12 lines and fittings from Torques (UK) on egay. Great quality and prices.

Turbotech is crap from my experience. Go with the stronger actuator, you wont get defected for it (paint it black) and it will give you a much better outcome. If you are good with your hands you will be able to make a bracket to suit, take some pictures if you get the Kinugawa as i'm sure more people will be heading down this path soon.

Lol, teflon won't perish like rubber. There is no law telling the owner to replace 40 year old brake lines but new replacement braided teflon ones don't pass? Regency are a pack of knobs. As long as the lines are ADR approved and marked as such you should have no issues.

It's lucky I'm only aiming for 499.

Just drop the front shaft out for now, that way you won't be wearing the clutch packs. I would also unplug the attessa pump motor.

My car had 5 cats in the exhaust to pass the import emissions test, apart from cost is it worth doing to get through first time? Obviously you don't want to leave them there...

I have seen the graphs, hopefully he will post them up soon. Split .82 rear with twin 40mm gates. Full boost by 3.5k sounds like a win for a 300kw turbo.

I'm pretty sure that's a t2, can you measure the width and height?

The installer did mention he could only have 2 bottles at any time, they wont let them stockpile...

I just picked up 20L of syn-x6000 today for $150, how can you beat that?

No idea, no-one has pushed a VQ25det to anywhere near this as far as I know. The only comfort I have is results from a VQ30det in an R32 in the dyno thread, it ran 430kw/T04Z for a year before lifting the head. I have a few spares, no big deal, but I would like to keep it in one piece if I can.

I have a spare here if you need it, but I repaired mine by straitening the slider pin, it worked fine after that and some new grease.

Funny enough I just bought a 20L Synx 6000 for myself today, $150. Still got 4 bottles of Sougi left though.

Yep, the compressor was limited 341kw at 23psi with the 1.06 Tial, now trying the GTX3076 with 0.82 Tial knockoff. It lifted the head while strapped to the dyno a month back, made 330kw at 19psi before we stopped. The graphs looked identical at that point when he overlaid them. I have replaced the head gaskets, fitted ARP L19 head studs, match ported the manifold and stuck it back in the car, hopefully it will all hold together for the tune but its run fine for a week now so i'm confident.

Yep, I agree it would usually be the best option but at that price? Its not like everyone else is replacing them, they are quite reliable in most cases. It's you coin buddy...

Drop in and borrow a set of wheels if you like, it is most probably the tyres but it could be the wheel bearing, or the brakes grabbing...