scotty nm35

I use one but there is no support in Melbourne at all. The Fcon is a great option but HKS have a habit of screwing every dollar from the customer, so compare the full costs including tune. Perhaps there are other tuners around you that can tune with knock off software?

The solenoid bleeds off air to raise the boost, it can only bleed so much with the restrictor in place. You can drill it out for a boost gain but I wouldn't suggest it on the stock turbo's.

Limp can also be the tps as I found out. Can you measure the voltage output or get a reader onto it? Did you cut open the AFM and solder the pins inside? I'm always willing to help for Jack, shame you are so far away.

I just bled mine the other day from empty. First the rear bleed under the pump, then the front one at the transfer case. No big deal.

Lol, people have their own ideas on what they want to do Scott, we need to share this kind of information so they can make a well thought out design that will work. How is that a Fab Warz? I would only save $50 - $100 on a full system doing mild though. Easier how? You need to check out Midways prices on their quality mandrels.

I am an old man, lol. One year older today too. Sounds great. Jethro won't be happy, Baby Jeebus will cry if he doesn't go to church. lol.

No offence taken, we knew this would work just not how well. I didn't have the time to put into manufacturing them so Dale picked up the sales. OX had already done the hard work. I agree, best bang for buck mod you can do atm.

Jez, do you use mild because you don't want to wrap stainless? Another misconception imo. Stainless won't go brittle and crack under heatwrap from what I have seen, mind you I don't wrap stainless manifolds if I can help it. Eventually any system will crack given enough heat cycles and vibration I just try to minimise it as I don't want my customers ever coming back. Even painted the mild will rust away in no time under wrap. I guess if you only plan to use the car for a few years... That's the difference, I want my systems to last forever. The tubes weigh around the same, not sure where you were going with that mate. While I still appreciate a nice mild system I know the exhaust acids will turn it to oxide within 5 years unless you ceramic coat it inside and out, which negates the cost savings and adds weight. I wish Ti and Inconel were cheaper but the only cost effective answer is 304 for the front and perhaps alloy for the rear sections if you were keen on weight savings. Looks the goods mate, What turbo is that setup for? Kyle obviously doesn't fit these manifolds or he wouldn't have placed the wastegate directly under the turbo, making it nearly impossible to get to. If only the pipes were a little longer...

Returnless fuel systems still have a reg in the tank normally. The self learning should be fine if you keep everything stock. If you were planning to gain power don't bother. (unless you strap a turbo to it or bump the compression up to 15:1)

Night cruise doesn't very family friendly it's not a street drift meet. How about some daylight to check out the cars at least?

You want this man to drive you in a 350kw 1200kg pos Silvia? No thanks.

Were you expecting the man in his avatar?

Is that an open invitation Jez? All of SAU is invited I hope?

Most ecu's will learn quite well considering, especially the newer ones. Of course it's always better to run an EMU or similar but in an NA engine it won't do any harm. Latency shouldn't be an issue with the newer design injectors imo. Do it Artz and prove me right. lol. The other option is to run a new Walbro 416 or similar and bump up the pressure on the stock injectors.

No mate, not yet. I missed out on this weekend's run as I wasn't sure the engine would be back in. As it is it needs a damn good tune, opening up the runners made a huge difference, its now running 19/20:1 on cruise.

Aaron like a boss. lol.

About 10% usually, depending on setup. If you run higher compression it will help more as the 98 will be on the verge of pinking continuously.

How did you disconnect them? The clips need to be sideways and as you slide them in you will hear them click into the fitting. They shouldn't pull back off without pushing the clips back in. A hose clamp wont help you.

Just after the Vband, the pipes don't merge until the cat. There is another flex in the 3 inch to help stop the leverage of the exhaust cracking the manifold.

Can't you just weld on a new one? They aren't expensive. Is you new cat mild or stainless? I wouldn't charge more than $30 to supply it and weld it in.

It isn't really an issue if you like pulling the parts back off to weld them but I bet its a job and a half to fit. I just did a split 6boob install and it was a pita, especially the gate position. I fabbed it all in the car though.

Here's hoping you can crack a 10 mate, it will be a nice setup. I have seen one crack a stainless manifold within an hour on the dyno. (that was with a venting screamer.) I also watched my exhaust grow longer by over 2 inches and glow red at the tip. I can just imagine the stresses on the tubing up the hot end.

What about Ironpaw's dual fuel setup, e85 and gas? Perhaps all the other mods should be listed too?

Hose clamps on what? They are clip lock fittings, perhaps you didn't push them right in?

Taking bets on how long the canary takes... Just joking Aaron.