scotty nm35

I can. ID's are not genuine, they are Bosch ev14's so I guess the ebay ones are the genuine injectors. lol. Buy local for the warranty is my suggestion.

I always run a flex in the screamer pipe as the expansion between off gate and on causes the pipes to move too much. The gate pipes are cold then become white hot as the gate opens. (get a video of it on the dyno, its impressive.) It will most probably crack at the base where it joins the dump and load up the gates and manifold/studs like you said. Bugger removing it all for repairs to save the $20 a two inch flex costs.

Where is the flex join Jez? Exhaust looks good other than that.

Neither, they are both much bigger than the stock turbo but as Paul said the 2871 is the smaller one obviously.

Sounds like the head gasket is split. Is there a mechanic local to you that can carbon test the cooling system?

Your head needs more than a re-build Aaron.

edit: lol its aaron i thought i was using mine.: nah scott needs to fabricate some more stuff. hopefully all done by sunday/monday.. if nothing goes wrong. i found out my head could do with a rebuild. so thats next.

It all depends on the base fuel pressure, If you bump it up the pump has to take the load, if you drop pressure the injectors work harder. The 1000's I run flow over 1500cc at higher pressure but you would require a damn good fuel system to support high flow at such a high pressure. The 255 Walbro pumps die off at around 80psi and start to make some weird noises, so I decided to lower the base pressure as I hadn't maxed the injectors yet. At least I can raise it up from there if I need more injector. If you were going to load up the fuel pump I would go for the new 416 Walbro as it handles high pressures with much more flow than the 341/342. As Jez said, leave plenty of overhead in your injectors and pump for safety, you don't want to push either to their limits.

A mate with a 2j Supra just pulled 550wkw with a GT4094R on Caltex e85, boost comes on strong, 20psi by 3k. Not very lack luster, quite impressive I thought.

Before it was molested Aaron...

Car is back on the road, im in too.

Status and Etuner were the only two tuners in Melbourne willing to work with my EMU.

The stock ecu should take care of everything mate, Perhaps run it up on a dyno to make sure the afr's are fine. You could adjust fuelling with an adjustable reg if you needed to.

Bend the lip with a shifter where it fouls, its very soft and easily straightened.

Its been so long since I have seen mine, but I agree that would improve things. I think you would only be pressurising the space, not flowing much extra air through it. Plus the radiator needs clean air too.

Eh? You been drink'n?

You didn't drain the rack though, that's where the issue was. It takes hours to get all the air bubbles out of it.

Exactly, and inside the top of the cooler (the part I cut off) isn't going to get much airflow as the compressed air is travelling too fast to bend up there.

It makes their job too easy, no challenge, as it's not on the verge of knock all the time. Seriously, the only reason not to run it is the extra fuel it requires, larger fuel system, less k's to the tank. The positives outweigh the woeful economy tenfold. Clean engine, more torque/power, lower temps, cheaper, environmentally friendly, not having to line the pockets of thieving oil companies...

Can you suggest another 600x220 core I can use? lol. It cost me $100, I wasn't too worried.

It lives, I started it tonight. Just a few little jobs to do and it's back on the road. I need to learn how to bleed the Attessa and solder a few wires back together under the dash. Power steering was a bitch to bleed.

It only takes 10 minutes to fit, why didn't you just bolt it on while you were under there?

I ran a Greddy cooler through the bandsaw, the core ended up around 220mm high from 300. I then bolted the end tanks to the intrusion bar. This is the same cooler I have been running for a while. The lobster pipe is welded to the cooler as the bend was too sharp to use a silicone 90, plus my cooler sits very low compared to the HDI. The hot side is all replaced up to the turbo, 2.5 inch stainless and a 60mm alloy bend into the cooler.

Yep, its all back on, looks stock other than the fuel reg and gauge hanging at the side. I think so, lol. I haven't hooked the controller up yet but I don't think I will need the thermo's in winter anyway.

I got the white whale started today, the timing chain rattled like crazy for at least 5 minutes until the tensioners pumped up. All good, no leaks and the coolant stopped bubbling after a short while. (unlike before. lol.) Here are some pics of the coolers, both sides have thermo fans behind them, a 14 inch for the 12an oil cooler and a 9 inch for the trans cooler. I also have a controller to switch them both on at whatever oil temp I decide to set it to. I scored this wood heater for the shed too, it makes this Melbourne winter bearable now in the man cave.