scotty nm35

Check the connections where the afm plug was spliced in, perhaps they weren't soldered correctly?

The cheapest option for more aggressive power is to fix the issues you have currently, this should be a wild ride already but it looks to be very flat. Can you get pictures of various parts starting with the rear housing and wastegate/controller setup? 5k is very late for that boost, I had 20psi by 4k on my GTX3076 .82. It almost sounds like you have a boost leak, have you had your intake plugged and pressure tested? With the Tial you can run multiple springs and now the low end is tuned you should be able to get the gate to hold 18psi using the 11 and 7psi springs, that should help a little. Who welded the vband to the rear housing? Did they make sure it didn't warp?

I think he does it for $250 but you would have to PM him. That price would be with you supplying all the Nissan Matic J or Nulon synthetic trans fluids. For anyone in Melbourne, I can install it for the same price and supply the kit from Jetwreck.

That sort of buzzing sounds like a faulty relay, perhaps you could check the relay box behind the battery for corrosion or damage? You will need to remove the battery again to get to it. I know Nuwan is in Bayswater, someone here should know his details. I will try and get in touch with him for you.

If it is, do you have a mac valve? You need to feed boost pressure onto the top port on the wastegate until your controller switches it to the lower port. Which spring did you get and what is the lowest boost pressure you can run?

Very nice, I love the spray booth.

Is yours internal or external gate? Perhaps the wastegate isn't set up correctly or doesn't have enough spring to hold back the manifold pressure? That would make it come on very slow and progressively build boost like on your graph.

Just tyres or with rims? I have a set of s/h KU36's here on drifteks I might part with, or you could just take the tyres off them and bring the rims back?

Exactly, and the 25 or more amps the pumps require will cause lower voltage at the pump fairly easily with a dodgy earth. I use speaker wire to energise the pump off the old pump power wires and a pair of heavy gauge audio power cables for the feed through a 60amp relay. The only hassle is getting it all through the rubber grommet into the battery compartment.

Bosch have a factory difference of less than 2%, perhaps the cheapest option is to ask Aznew (Injectorsonline) the Aus wholesalers to match flow a set for you if your'e worried? It would be worth paying extra for it, you would still be miles in front. $250 each is a joke. http://www.injectorsonline.com/indivprod.php?cid=106&scid=41

I used the battery terminal I ran two thick wires and two thin ones back to the battery compartment, through the relay and fused the positive. I don't like relying on the chassis earth.

Sorry, I barely understood what you were trying to get across. With the last part though, how long do you think a piston takes to melt at 1400 degrees combustion temps? Perhaps a few seconds, even warnings wont save you in extreme cases. Base fuel pressure + boost pressure = max fuel pressure at regulator and pump. Base pressure = fuel pressure at injector tip all the time due to boost pressure acting against it. If you run a standard Walbro at 80psi it will not flow very much fuel at all, and it is working very hard to do it. The higher pressure you go the less fuel flow you get out. Perhaps the new Walbro pump is much better but its a brand new design that was released because the last 400lph kept failing, I would be wary, re-read my first sentence. As this pump won't fit into an M35 you should probably ask about it in the FI section, we are stuck with the Deatschworks. High boost isn't the answer anyway, it is just a measure of your engine's restriction to the airflow.

I did mention it yesterday in my post. Did you miss that with all the non pump related banter?

Can you just run an inline -10an sensor port?

Add to that the fcon runs as a plggyback which complicates it even further. I don't pretend to know exactly how it works, just that HKS have managed to seamlessly control gear change timing and line pressures by tricking the stock ecu, through an unused input (pin) I have no information on. I would love to know what's happening with those 4 programmable fcon outputs and what they control but I would need HKS support or a portable scope and plenty of road. If those can be cracked we could run any standalone ecu setup with the same copied set of output voltage maps. Once I have got it tuned (If we have time) I will look at adjusting some of those maps and see what the outcome is.

Stutter? It sounds more like attessa. Can you describe it in more detail?

It doesn't quite work like that, although the Fcon allows it but I don't know which output map it is. You would need full line pressure at anything above a gentle acceleration imo. You can run whatever injectors you want with the Fcon. It's a completely different setup on your SR, you can run the Walbro as it fits in your tank and it would give you good overhead if you plan to wind up the pressure, but you will hit a point where that won't help. From 45 base to 70 peak only gives you a 25psi boost margin and what happens if your controller or wastegate fail causing unlimited boost? I like leaving a buffer with my car like larger injectors and pumping ability as when things go bad the ecu can control temps with extra fuel flow. Running 90% on injectors is just asking for trouble I believe, especially now there are suitably large ones to choose from that idle perfectly. (bosch ev14's)

Raising pressure lowers the pump's output flow, why would you want to do that? Seems to me you would be going backwards. Just get larger injectors, Aaron is getting ID2000's for his orangemobile btw.

Where did you find it for that price Alvin? That's what I might be going for when my Sougi stock runs dry.

With a highflow the 0-100 times will usually be slower, that is assuming both turbo's are tuned properly and run the same mods. It's only past 50kph that mine would start to wind up and by then the stocker would be 2 or 3 car lengths in front.

I wouldn't worry about the FPR, it just makes it an illegal setup for no benefit unless you want to lower the pressures for high boost applications. (30psi or more) If the cap clipped back in then you are fine, it just makes life easier for the extra $5 at Nissan and you usually have to go there for the filter anyway. I don't bother replacing the power connector, I think the DW one was thinner gauge...

The main o ring stretches with fuel contact which makes it hard to get back into the slot properly. I usually get a new one as I am replacing the oem filter anyway. I put the pump housing in the vice to gently squeeze it back together. Don't modify the housing at all, there is no need, just ditch the rubber underneath. The Walbro is just a different color, non anodised. Wiring: Black with a yellow line is Positive (black with a red line inside the tank) Green with a red line is Negative (black inside the tank)

Fuel pressure is the reg's department as Slippy said. I can get these through my wholesaler if you want me to get a price. I think they were around $160 (the Walbro's sell for under $100). Just like the Walbro it will require new wires to be run to the battery through a relay and fuse.

I will look for the colors later mate. The base for the pump will clip in fine if the tabs are trimmed right off. I just put the assembly in the vice and tighten it slowly. I have never had to modify the base. The DW300 is exactly the same as a Walbro on the outside. That return line is a pain in the arse too. Did you replace the tank o ring?

They are just BSPT air line fittings, that's what I used...