scotty nm35

Not getting them is one thing, what if they dont work after you have given feedback, or what if you need a warranty claim down the track? I get all my fuel gear from Injectorsonline, they are cheap and local if I need to return what I bought, lucky as I have returned quite a few fuel system parts over the years. Let me know if you want me to get trade pricing for you Paul, they look after me fairly well as I have spent a heap there lately.

It sounds like some kind of boost cut, are you running the stock ecu or is it tuned? What gauge are you using to test the boost pressure?

Holy crap, how do you find such old threads, aren't they covered in dust under countless old newspapers? On topic, there is no reason a stock RB or any engine for that matter, wont last half a million K's if the owner actually maintains it.

Protection? I would think there's more protection buying from an actual shop than some random on ebay. Tuspeed is a great place to buy according to my mate, I will be going there soon as I have a gift voucher to use.

How was it on the way home last night? Perhaps there is a loose wire in the loom, or corrosion in the plug that we managed to dislodge?

Sounds like your TPS is way out then Darren, the minimum we could get it to was 2.3v, I still don't see how that would make it go into limp mode though... Swap it and see if the voltage drops to .47v.

I had a look at it last night for him, its a z32, I tried the solder fix, no good. I swapped it for another z32, still no good. Perhaps they were both dead? I cleaned the plugs etc but the ecutalk was showing a good afm voltage output so we looked elsewhere for the source of the limp mode. Do you know anyone with another z32 to try anyway Darren? Otherwise you may need to get the wiring checked. We noticed the tps on the ecu talk wont drop below 2.3v, shouldn't it be set to .47 or so at idle? The idle isn't very good either... One other thing, the 2k rev cut only seems to happen when its at operating temp.

Same here, mine goes dim when I go under a bridge on the freeway.

Flush the cooler with kero or similar I guess. Make sure there are no metal particles in the oil that comes out, it could mean the engine blew before it was removed. You can test the thermostat in boiling water, most open around 80 degrees.

Just bring the AFM down, I will cut it open and re-solder the pins. Hopefully that's all it is mate. If not it's Z32 + tune time...

Did you unplug the AFM? Check the plug is in, if it is then you have most probably damaged the the AFM internal connection, its a common fault. Can you borrow another one to try?

Usually the intermittent faults are caused by dry joints inside the AFM, If you bring the AFM down tonight I can pull it apart for you and resolder the board.

As far as I know they just machine the tip down a little to fit multiple installs. They are matched well from Bosch from what I have been told. At least they are local if you have issues...

Xspurts = ID's = Bosch ev14's.

Tell them to turn the smoothing down, it looks like its wound right up. With 19-20psi you should get around 300, I made 335 at around 19psi on e85 with the 76.

Remove spare tyre, replace with Noz, 4 of the big ones... Profit?

Xspurts are sold by Injectors online, they are Bosch ev14's. http://www.injectorsonline.com/categories.php?cid=106 I have been running these for over a year now on e85 without a problem. Contact them about an SX reg too.

If you take that silly bov off you wont foul your plugs anymore. Pretty simple fix?

lol.

Its a common VQ trait apparently. Once the studs are done it should be fine.

Who knows mate, I wasn't at much more power than that myself remember. If you notice any loss of water or overfull overflow bottle it will have lifted... Mine has been doing it for ages it just failed completely the other day on the dyno. The stock head studs are crap, designed to be the weak link so as not to damage the bottom end. If you are worried, get a set of ARP studs fitted, or VQ37 bolts are pretty good apparently. The heads shouldn't even have to come off...

Not really, you should be fine up to 250-300wkw with just a shift kit. Depending on the size of the turbo you may need to modify the stall converter also.

1) None, they only allow more fuel flow as your power level increases. If you chose an older design injector the spray pattern may be poor = bad fuel economy and poor idle. 2) No, the valves will be fine, the valve springs may need replacing if they are old and tired. 3)The Z32 will allow you to tune safely for more power as the stock afm will run out of resolution or max out. You will need a tuneable ecu for this and the injectors if you get them. Edit, beat me to it Steve-o.

"what would engineers certificates cost roughly? and engineers cert is done after all the upgrades? or before?" You should really go and talk to your chosen engineer first as he will have to dictate what you can and can't get away with. Otherwise you can do what most of us (down here) have done and try to make a stealth stock looking setup you can get away with on the street.

It should be fine, most pumps have a relief valve built in. If it still works/starts you will find out on the rollers if it flows well. Hurry up, Trent should have his dyno fixed soon, get in line quick. lol.