scotty nm35

He has re-installed it in his car. They aren't expensive from Japan though.

Not if there is no leaks... How long does it hold 20psi though? Wind the reg up and test it at 70psi, then drop it back to where it was. Make sure its running the same pressure though, or don't boost it before the retune.

Nothing weeping mate? I would just see how it goes. Get it on the dyno will you...

3 inch is pretty big Roy, I usually use 3 inch out of the turbo on builds over 400kw, I know it supports at least 550wkw from a car I did recently... 2.5 inch should be fine mate for either side. I also fabricated piping for a built STI Liberty in 2 1/4 alloy, it runs 280awkw. More important is the cooler end tank design imo.

I should get my sample test results back today Bob, $30 sounded pretty good to me for an oil sampling kit. How much were you getting the Agip for? I'm assuming you can buy that in bulk?

You need a vband clamp?

Just a manual lathe would do the job, I could make one up in no time. I don't have any Ti though, plenty of stainless, magnesium, brass, copper etc. Try airport metals, wont be cheap mate.

I agree but who knows, JEM might be gurus at extracting teh powerz. It looks like a nice setup though...

Artz's ones had an adapter on the bottom.

I just hit a switch and it dumps 12v onto the solenoid. Around town I don't use it, the converter flares too much for it to lock up anyway, so its easy. If you want to keep the factory lockup circuit you would need a 3 way switch. 3rd gear the converter lockup clutch won't hold on mine. It was fine up to around 300kw, after that we had to run it in 4th in which just holds. Hopefully Kewish can fit some extra clutches into the converter, thats the plan anyway.

Limp mate, the kickdown is just to keep you on your toes. The torque converter lockup solenoid needs a 12v voltage on it for a start...

Yes mate, you can help me pull my engine. The head lifted on the dyno last week...

Where are the graphs buddy?

I have no idea where the abs computer resides but I would try swapping that first. I doubt the actuator is the problem. Have you checked all the fuses in all three fuse boxes? Perhaps there is a faulty relay in the power control unit behind the battery? I would be getting an auto elec to check it out if you get stumped. Where are you located?

Caltex hasn't changed much from 70% since it was introduced. I would run Caltex in winter for the easy cold starts and swap maps to United in summer if you want the e85.

I saw this today and couldn't believe the power the SR was putting out with a GT35... http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=519247

You should be able to drop it through the resistor and then switch it back using a simple dual pole dual throw switch like these.

Re-solder the AFM board, where the pins for the plug connect. There is a how to somewhere. Bring the AFM down if you don't know how to do it mate.

I don't know where you got that info. You either have to get the disks machined down, or find a pair already done. Do you have warped disks? New ones will do the same thing, hence everyone upgrading to the r34 4 piston gear. Did you read the brake thread above?

Ouch, not too bad considering you hacked at it with drill bits for hours though. Thread doctor good to you? He didn't want a bar of my snapped thread with an easy out snapped off in it... I managed it by myself though.

I may have to get the head decked anyway but they wouldn't be taking much off. I'm keeping the 2.5 for now. I ordered the oem head gaskets today, and ended up getting the ARP L19 head studs for $399us. They should all be here in two weeks so that's how long I have to get the engine out and disassemble/check it. All going well it should be back on the dyno within a month or so, just got to learn how the pull a VQ down and reassemble it now.

Not likely, it wont even start. lol. Luckily I got it going to get it off the dyno and onto the car trailer, when I got it home the damn thing was hydro-locked. Off with the heads next week for a check, if all's good I will replace the head gaskets, fit the ARP L19's and try again. Yours will be a very interesting run mate, I wouldn't be surprised if you can get into the 12's with better tyres. Lighten it up as much as you can...

I agree Dale. I don't want to go down the larger bolt route, the L19's look like they will do the job nicely and the stock hg should hold fine with 100 foot pounds of torque. lol.

I can't find any, do you mean copper gaskets or Cometic, apparently the Cometic ones are crap and I doubt they make them for the smaller bore. At least they come in different thicknesses for the VQ35de's though. I have just ordered the stock head gaskets from Nissan but I have to rebuild 2 engines so if you can find a stronger hg option i'm all for it.

Agreed, but if the head studs are all that need changing (and that's understandable at probably 600 flywheel hp) then lets do it and get on with tuning. Its not expensive in the scheme of things just inconvenient. Looks like i succeeded in finding the limits of the unopened engine anyway. lol. I have never seen the temp gauge much over half way, not sure if it overheated or what. I always seemed to catch it in time, lucky I have the informeter... I think it's just the combustion pressure and that is what the VQ35 guys are saying too. Weak ass 3.5 bolts.