scotty nm35

To get rid of drone you would be best off tuning a Helmholtz chamber to cancel the unwanted exhaust frequency. Larger muffles will make the whole frequency range quieter but the chamber would target the frequency you want cancelled. The maths behind reflective sound cancelling is quite complex so its best to make an adjustable length setup if you can. I doubt many muffler shops would help you with it though. With regards to sizing, you would probably gain over 20kw going up to 3.5 inch at the moment, I gained 30kw but deleted the cat also.

I'm running a 350z diff in 3.5:1 ratio, probably the best option as the aftermarket diffs are usually too clunky for my liking. Did you want to keep the 3.0:1 ratio for any reason?

You play the Banjo Dale? lol.

Banjo bolt.

No error messages, just a lower voltage to the ecu causing lean conditions. Solder the pins on the board where the plug goes in again, if all else fails change it. No point taking it to a workshop to diagnose until that's done at least, as that's what they will do first.

The Transgo kit IS the valve body upgrade. It is just a few valves and springs to install into your stock valve body, no rocket science involved.

Mine seems to run around 24 deg max in the top end under full load from what I can see... (there could be any number of maps overlaid over it,) That is an ethanol tune on a low compression engine obviously, I don't have to worry about knock. It is an rpm x map pressure so as the boost rises timing gets lower to around 2.9 bar then it drops back to zero.

4 now if you count the s14 Aaron. I can make a suction pipe and any other pipes you require but I would need the car here for most of the work. Where are you located? The only parts I have a jig for and can send interstate are the dump pipe, the front pipe with cat and the lower 2 sections of the suction (intake) pipe to the AFM at the moment. PM me if you are interested. Definitely clean the banjo restrictor, its in the block just in front of the passenger driveshaft. If you have trouble doing that, you will love doing the turbo swap. lol.

Effectively you can see the octane of the fuel in the map to some extent, as higher octane fuel requires more time to ignite and produce the explosion. At the end of the day, he who runs the least boost and timing for the required power wins imo. (but where is the fun in that? )

True, I just assume everyone has got on the e85 wagon by now. lol. You mean you haven't yet Alex? Remember his car has 3.5:1 diffs like mine does now. I used to have 3.0:1's which made it more like his 4th I guess. Why Nissan put such long ratios in I have no idea.

I used to, as the speed cut would kick in too early to tune in 4th. Now I have to use 4th as the converter lockup clutch slips badly in 3rd and flares up to the stall converter. There was little difference in power but the torque was much higher in 3rd obviously, over 1200nm, which would possibly snap nylon straps imo when it kicked down violently.

You still keep that can of aerostart handy Craig. lol. Go and get a "Tune ya Bastard" haha.

Nice graph Alex, Why did you stop there? I would have thought 250kw would have been ok... Do you still have plans for an engine build down the track? You hit the nail on the head with the temp sensors, they affect the stock ecu heavily, and not just engine sensors, the gearbox plays funny buggers too. Unfortunately we need them, if only we could change the sensitivity... Jez, can you imagine what the kick down to 2nd or 3rd on mine is like? My car needs to be doing over 70-80kph before you ease the throttle on. I hope you have a good strapping system.

Nice Alex, where is the graph? I want to see where the boost kicks in...

Its behind the oil filter, look from underneath.

Have you tried MV automatics? http://www.mvautomatics.com.au/

I have an RE5, why is it inferior?

Yeh, I have a few cats laying about now.

Of course.

If the growl is the compressor rubbing on the housing I would get on to it fairly quickly...

Its fairly complicated as you need to remove the trans sump and valve body which have around a hundred bolts holding them in. They all need to go back together in the same hole too. Read the instructions when you get the kit and make the decision then, if it seems too complicated get Craig (jetwreck) to do it, or someone local if you aren't in Sydney. It will cost a lot more if you get it wrong...

No worries, I will start a thread Monday once I get mine and find out pricing.

Like a 33? How many have you weighed recently?

[quote name=ClutchBurndout-' timestamp='1336639948' post='6351478] brass or copper, where can i get either? Plumbing suppliers? Melbourne water after midnight?

Wat?