scotty nm35

Flex tuning is probably the answer if you don't want to carry a jerry or two. That way you can run any mix of the two you like.

No compromise if the mapping is complete, and you have a decent array of sensors. With modern ecu's running intake air temp and Wo2 correction there should be no issues if the tuner has done his job. Upgrading to the Haltech Elite in the evo soon, with the timing map done the rest will self tune. That should offset the cost of the ecu nicely and hopefully save me fuel down the track, let alone not having to pay for tuning anymore.

I was impressed at how well the FT86 was going at PI, with just an e85 tune. (no turbo) High comp motors love it, and that's essentially what you have with a supercharger. The main issue you have is you will be det limited, which is a non issue running ethanol. The extra torque is crazy, even if you don't push more timing into it.

I run K+N oil filters on my cars. Makes most others look like paper elements... Oh...

Make sure the master is returning fully using the pedal adjustment, you should be able to blow air through from the slave up to the reservoir if it's adjusted correctly with the pedal in it's home position. Bleeding clutches manually is a pain in the arse, find someone local with a Vac or pressure bleeder, you will be surprised how easy it is to bleed, so much so you may want to buy one... I did.

Intake and exhaust temps won't really matter anymore, unless you want to run 50psi plus. I cut the Stagea one in half and it still works well. I'm running the stock evo cooler at 300kw. A larger cooler is just a bigger heat sink at the end of the day. Perhaps a simple water sprayer like the evo's run would sort you out? A good bar and plate cooler is only a couple of hundred.

Still appeals to me, as it has saved my new race engine a couple of times. (reg hose popped off and ran 16:1 at 32 psi at Sandown.) A petrol tune would have melted the pistons within a lap.

The tuner is likely guessing the cold start mixtures unless it's a 2 degree morning when he tunes it from cold. As Greg said, the best cold start mapping is achieved by yourself fiddling on cold mornings, once you get it right it should start just fine.

Your tune be shitty mate.

A dual fuel setup would suit these petrol heads better Greg, you really only need ethanol under boost anyway.

I sell pumps and injectors, but I won't do Deatschworks anymore, too many issues with them. A genuine Walbro through me is $110 (cheap as chips) flows 400kw and should be nearly silent if you don't go bumping the fuel pressure sky high. I run two in my Stagea and can barely hear them. DW are just like every other made in China pump imo. If you can't afford to build the engine, perhaps a few times, don't chase the power. If it ends in tears you can't blame anyone but yourself at the end of the day. There isn't any warranty in the tuning game and doubling the power of an engine has it's consequences.

He was talking about viscosity, not what base stock is in your particular brand of preferred oil. As long as you change the oil regularly, anything you run these days should provide enough film strength to protect your bearings. The better quality synthetics will just do it for longer without breaking down. Well, that's always been my take on it... If you change your oil regularly and keep the temps under control, it probably makes no difference if you run a decent semi or the best quality synthetic on the market, as long as the viscosity is within your engine's preferred range for the climate it runs in.

Blows that theory of running gearbox oil grades in your engine, for track protection, right out the door. I will just stick to my 10w40 thanks.

Don't let it deter you like it did Alex though, I have seen what a 280kw 350z goes like at the track, and I would love one. Just don't stand too close to the engine when it lets go, I still have burnt leg hairs from standing beside a turbo V8 Soarer when it threw a rod on the dyno. Not pretty.

Or take the mods off and run only those ones you can get away with, or easily swap back to stock from.

^This. It's not like the strut brace will stop your chassis flexing much. lol. Too much powerz.

And shove it down between the bore and the rings, just where you want it.

280kw will never be reliable unless you run e85. The rods in the VQ35 are very light so you would need forged parts to make it reliable. 280kw is fairly easy out of this kit, it could make 340 or so on ethanol pretty easily. I can supply injectors and pump cheaper than most if you want a quote. Ecu wise, Haltech. You can also remap the stock ecu to some extent using Osirus, but the Haltech is the go.

Which is Cosco... Red is alloy and steel, higher rated but slightly higher when lowered. Blue is the old style all alloy, not that great, they flog out quickly. Lighter and weaker, but great for taking to the track.

Stock fuel rail is fine. Injector sizing is dependent on what you want from the car power wise. Usually 1000cc Xspurts are what I recommend, unless you want more than 400kw in the future on e85.

We have been dealing with these issues in Vic for a long time, a return flow cooler, hypergear highflow in the stock housings and 80mm intake running ethanol gets good results, injectors and fuel pump, Nistune etc should get you to 300kw pretty easily without too many cop hassles. You will need a Z32 afm and decent 3 inch quiet exhaust too. Keep the stock airbox, they are good for 400+kw and will keep it looking legal.

*racepace tuned.

It's 10 minutes down the road... Find a mate with a membership, or just pay the stupid markups people ask on ebay.

Ah... Costco? lol.

E85 tunes obviously help.