scotty nm35

Nope, All car carpets.

Ok, I will get some pics of mine when done and ask them for pricing. There are many carpet types and options they can do for us, including stitching a patch with embroidered Stagea logo, but I was happy with plain grey.

I remember when 200 was the limit...

I just organised some carpet mats to be custom made, 4 floor mats, hump with velcro and cargo floor mat. Good pricing on them too. I got them to supply some bitumen sandwiched flock sound deadening to be glued underneath the rear luggage mat, to try and get rid of the exhaust drone, and also they will cut out for the luggage hooks in the floor so they can be removed and bolted back in, hopefully holding the mat in place nicely. They also supplied me with the bitumen/aluminium sheets to stick to the body under the plastic trays. Should make it almost silent in the back apparently. I might ask them for a group buy price if anyone is interested in fitted mats...

You only need the passenger side rocker too I assume, as that is the one that always seems to leak. Funny enough it seems to be the one that fails on VQ35's also, so not just turbo heat related. Post up the prices if you can...

After a heated discussion with Cihan quite a few turbo options were on the table. We both concluded the GTX3076 is probably the turbo of choice for a comfortable 360kw or so, still with the 1.06 Tial rear. Hope I made the right choice... The GTX3576 was the other option but I would have to buy a new .82 Tial GT35 rear housing, plus the turbo is more expensive. Cost wise I'm better off sticking with the GT30 rear. (for now. )

I did it but I wouldn't recommend using too much sealant in there, probably best to find another rocker cover, new if possible, but they were over $200 I seem to remember and would have to come from Japan. The plug tube seal isn't replaceable.

Wat? Your kidding, dealer serviced? Thats a job I would be doing myself, so you can check the plug tubes are clear of oil. They wouldn't even tell you by the sounds of it...

With a die grinder or milled?

Sounds like the bottom end, perhaps time for a new engine? If you drop down I could have a listen for you but I'm in Hampton Park... Let me know if you need an engine, I may have one here and can probably swap it over for you if you're interested.

The soft limit is set at 7300 I think and 7600 cut. I have the option of selling my turbo and buying another, I'm just not sure if I want to yet. I really want to know what this one feels like with the 0.82 rear, but I could just drop a GTX3076 in there with little response lost and shoot higher. Cihan wouldn't be happy. I guess he thinks I have enough powers already.

It depends what smoothing was used in the dyno program, it averages out the peaks and troughs for a better looking graph.

Thanks Alex, it will be interesting to see how much of the graph is missing. Perhaps there IS a little more in it... I don't think more lag would be a good idea, although I can still hit full boost in 5th on the freeway cruising thanks to the stally. I'm probably going down the built 3.5 path next, just to give you a run for your money Alex. When are you winding up the wick?

lol. Jase, see what you've done...

Jethro is walking due to his lead foot syndrome and Cam decided to live in woop woop. Self inflicted like I said.

Both self inflicted so no sympathy here. lol.

That run was with the converter locked but you can't lock it in gear as far as I know, perhaps I can cut the CAN line so it doesn't get the kickdown signal? That said, what manual box would handle this torque for an extended time (not that I could fit one), and how much would a suitable clutch cost me? I guess its doing pretty well for the soggy box it used to be...

Cihan (Etuner) has always tuned my car, no-one else would touch it originally. I have the laptop and tune here but I have no idea how to find out injector duty as I just changed to the fcon vpro, and still learning the software. I'm guessing around 80% on the 1000's, it would only be around 2% more if that at a guess.

The dyno has a speed restriction of 200kph, I have no idea what revs its at when it hits that. Seeing we run the same diffs can you let me know? Are our gearboxes the same ratio? Boost in first is absolutely useless, especially in rear drive. (It will light up second in the dry) Usually around 5k I would say at a guess. Remember though, I have a 4k stall converter once boost ramps so once the initial second of nothing has passed it is always on boost, whatever gear i'm in. It was interesting going up a hill on the freeway in the wet the other day, just leaning on the throttle, and as boost ramps the car stepped out at 100kph in 4th. I need the front diff in soon, before winter hits.

Its a little hard to guess as the dyno has a 200kph speed restriction and I have no idea what revs it was actually at when it hit that (Cihan may know). There was still more revs left in it though, I run a 7300 soft limit. Also, the ramp is misrepresented as he cant stomp on the pedal, if the car isn't doing over 80kph and he doesn't ease the throttle on it will kick down into 3rd, and that isn't good at all. Boost hits hard at around 4k on the street just to give you an idea, but there is still plenty of power at 3500, perhaps 200kw? Just guessing. I wish I knew how to drive the Fcon, I could log it for you.

Generally in 4th gear you wouldn't have anything below that sort of speed, its not like you take off in 4th from the lights. The goal is to have at least 4000 revs of usable power then select the correct gear to use it. Obviously this is much laggier than the stock setup but above 4000 revs it is very responsive, boost hits instantly. its only below that where is comes on slower but it is still acceptable in my eyes, remember most of the highflow turbos going in are around the same wheel size, mine just has a larger rear housing for flow.

If you look at the pipes area it's still much bigger than the turbo nozzle so I doubt it would make much difference, It may perhaps keep the gas speed up if anything, I think the crossover pipe is too big.

United made more power but the tuner decided enough was enough. Stock motors can only take this sort of punishment for so long. The compressor was well out of efficiency by this stage and although I was keen to keep going, he didn't want a piston out the block. Fair enough, I have to trust his judgement.

United is 10c a litre more expensive and will get you slightly less K's but smells much better than eflex, not harsh but sweet. The United made slightly more powers at less boosts when I tuned on it yesterday. In the end I chose United due to the pump being local.

Ah, ok. It has some there as standard, as long as you didn't smear it everywhere. Its not something you want floating about in your oil if you can help it.