scotty nm35

I agree Dale, The compressor must be running out of efficiency so its a losing battle but there is always a little more in it. I enjoy fine tuning the setup for greater flow. How the power comes on is equally important. The 1.06 comes on a little softer, more linear and as such the tyres don't seem to break traction easily. The auto/stally would help too. I really need to get the front diff in though, its scary in the wet in rwd. I have a retune next weekend and plan to try out the United e85, perhaps I can gain a little more from that? I also dropped the water temps by 10 degrees, back to 80, it can only help I guess. Hopefully it will take a little more boost this time. The plan is to make a few Subaru owners sad at the dyno day I have coming up.

Looking good Trent, got the door working yet? You've been busy.

When you say the compressor is maxed, that only means the compressor can't flow any more with the current setup, that can be caused by many factors though as you are well aware. (My tuner said the compressor was maxed at 300kw before the exhaust upgrade.) I have no doubt there are gains going to a larger intake but I literally can't fit it in there on my setup, even though its running a map sensor now. Peak power was only at 23psi so there should be room to move yet. I was hoping to push it to 350 as that was my current goal but there are a few hurdles with parts design I need to address, I have no idea what that power would equate to on an RB but I would have thought the auto would rob a fair chunk of it. Perhaps the .82 rear just isn't big enough? I will know soon as I have one here to try out. All in all its doing a great job for its size, perhaps I will go down the aftermarket cam path to reap more top end gains (the VQ25det only runs around 8mm lift) but my goal was to see what the stock engine is capable of and I would rather just get a bigger turbo I think.

It happens on Stagea's too, its a common fault. Same unit. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/297345-m35-factory-boost-gauge-repair/page__p__4953193__hl__boost%20sensor__fromsearch__1#entry4953193

I could custom make a system for that but without a location it makes it hard to recommend workshops. Do you want a custom or brand name exhaust?

What coding? The above should sort out the remote, and the key will just work, there is no transponder in it.

Manifold leak. Check all the hoses and the gasket on the plenum.

I believe there is more to gain from his setup still, I wouldn't be surprised if he could crack 350 at the same boost with a bigger exhaust, good manifold or better intake/cooler arrangement. How else do you explain my auto getting the same power output as his other than the rear housing? Give it some time, and a few more well sorted cars will be getting those kind of results. Mine is hardly maxed, still has a 3 inch intake, stock airbox and cut down cooler to cause restriction.

KU36's are 220 treadwear from memory.

Thats not to say your GTX3076 is crap, it just doesn't live up to its hype. These turbos were supposed to be on another level which the 71 seems to be but the 76 was just restricted a little too much. At the end of the day it will make good power but not what the compressor is capable of making. Go for it, tune the sucker, you wont be disappointed.

I have tried quite a few combinations of turbo out so far and what I have found is if you restrict the turbine the top end will be limited. According to the compressor map the GTX3076 should flow like a GT35 so why doesn't it? The rear is simply too small. With the GTX3071 the extra compressor flow was compensated by upping the cropped turbine wheel to a full GT30 60mm version. It seems to have made it behave like the GT3076 but with better response. If this new GTX3576 can do the same, flow like a GT35 but with better response, it may be the turbo of choice for those chasing 350-400kw+.

Royal Purple is only a group 4 as far as I know, Redline do a group 5 but its bloody expensive. I still have 6 bottles of Sougi 6000 left.

Sunday good? I guess you don't need your Impul now Jason.

I just prefer to go bigger, housing and gate. Less restriction is always better but there is of course that lag penalty. I have never driven a 300kw 2L but I can imagine it would come on late. Split it and buy a 40mm Vband gate, realistically they should all work fine.

There is no immobiliser, it should be plug and play. Drop around if you like, I can check out the board for dry solder joints and any obvious issues. Are you sure it was from a VQ25det?

Yeh Paul, I think you would need the 10cm housing for that power and definitely external gate.

Wheres the pics?

If you plan to run e85 you want the temps up around 80 degrees at least so the ethanol evaporates out of the oil. I run a thermostat so the engine warms quicker. The Greddy one I use never seals fully, they always bypass around 10% and if they fail it just wont cool quite as well.

I fitted the fan shroud after hacking it up. A piece of the shroud must have snapped off and hit the fan, forcing it through the core.

Snow will take off in second usually although I haven't played with the switch much in mine.

I have the big Stagea wiring book out but I cant read Japanese, I can tell you that there is no wire in pin 55 on the Stagea VQ25dd which is the pin the brake lamp signal goes into on the VQ25det ecu... Can you find someone with an obd2 reader that can check the throttle opening at stall? Yours may not have the dreaded throttle lag of the Stagea.

I just bought one of these after seeing the quality first hand. I damaged my Mishimoto unfortunately so i'm going back to the stock setup for a while. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190638505278?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1906wt_1159

No pic. The VQ25dd ecu uses the same plug as the VQ25det so it should be similar but without the pinouts youre flying blind. I have the full M35 electrical book in front of me but I can't read Japanese... I too can adjust the throttle sensitivity but the restriction is different, have you hooked up the software to see if you get 100%tps at stall? Perhaps its gone now with the re-flash?

I would just buy a set and machine the outside down a little for it to fit, is it the o ring that wont go in or the alloy? Better that its anodized on the inside, otherwise I would make them myself out of stainless. Its not much material but it could take a while to turn them up. How much are the adapters anyway?

I have no idea, I would assume there is something similar in their ecu. Do you have a link to the ECU pinouts? I will have a look if you can find it...