scotty nm35

Not with a 2200 rev stall converter. If you want it to take off hard you went too big with your turbo, now you have to match the stally to the lag you bought yourself. Mine is a 3000 stall converter and it may be for sale soon. I will probably be heading for 3500 stall with 6 lockup clutches instead if 1. (if Kewish can sort me out with one...) Cihan and I were talking about it, seeing I don't want to go too big with the stall converter and I don't want to spool the turbo with NOS I have very little choice at the moment. Yes Alex, the 3.5 will help but that isnt getting a plain rebuild, if I ever get the funds I will be shooting for big numbers, too big for a Stagea to handle I believe.

Fark, I can get matched ev14 1000's for $600 a set locally with warranty... I can machine the adapter too if anyone needs it done. I cant believe they wont make GTR 10.5mm adapters.

Its been sunny down here for weeks, perhaps you should cruise down for a Calder run? ;P

Its good to see you series two M35 guys know where to post. lol. Alex, if the auto takes heaps away what's mine really putting out? I would think a modern auto would be nearly as efficient as a manual. On topic, go for the 34 gtr callipers if you can as the bolt size is the same. If you want to go the cheaper 32 gtr option I can make you the spacers you need for the 12mm bolts if you want.

Why is that Alex? Its only dumping 10-15 degrees of timing for 3 seconds or so. Should be interesting to see the flames, lol. I have to get this barge off the line somehow. Craig sent me this link...

Its more than a gut feeling, that is why the newer gtx3576 was released, I don't think the results from the gtx3076 were at all good and Garrett cant afford to release any more poorly performing turbos . I cant seem to find any decent graphs for the GTX3576 though. In theory it should get close to 400kw on e85 right? I feel I have maxed the gtx3071 compressor, not sure if I want to go bigger yet or not. I was hoping to fine tune it up to 350kw but squeezing that last bit will be hard as i'm changing back to the .82 housing soon.

There is no need unless its mounted close to the turbo or manifold. Even then you can shield it rather than run the coolant lines. Its for race use mainly.

You will need the exhaust done, it is extremely restrictive, especially the dump/cat pos. That will help spool the turbo. Speaking of which, I may be trying out an anti-lag button for mine to help spool the turbo at stall. I will let you know how it goes. (This should work with the emanage too.)

Speed data is sent down the CAN data line, you cannot tap into it for speed without a decoder. There is apparently a 4 wire brown plug taped to the loom above the cig lighter which may have speed pulse output but I have yet to try and find it.

Just down the road, will it be ok if I bring the kiddies?

An exhaust, uprated wastegate actuator and an emanage ultimate would get you there with a good tune, I would replace the fuel pump and fuel filter beforehand also. I can do a Deatschwerks 300lph fuel pump for around $160 that drops straight in, the 350z fuel filter is available from Nissan. http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-pumps/dw300-in-tank-fuel-pump

If there was only one mod to get it would be the fcon. lol. I can make any performance parts required, you need to choose what power you want and I can supply it, but it can get expensive. Essentially up to 200kw most of the stock parts will suffice, up to 300kw is available with a highflow, anything more and you will be spending big with custom parts replacing most of the stock items. The engine and trans seem hardy enough so far...

No problem Leon, not a job I would recommend people do themselves as you found out. lol. Just hope the mani studs stay tight on yours, Ive had a few come loose now without those copper coated nuts holding them tight. If not you will get the dreaded gasket squeal and have to do the job again.

The kick panel ecu is for the trans, the ecu is behind the glove box. You can drop in if you like, i'm in Hampton Park.

There is a problem with the search function I would say. The M35 ecu limits the throttle to 30% when the brake is applied and for approximately 3 seconds after its release. Its a good way to stop people getting sideways coming out of a corner, and also stops you launching with boost. Cutting the brake signal to the ecu disables this but it will eventually throw a fault code unless you find some way to trick it. (connect it up temporarily when you don't need throttle.) Most just run a switch and tap the brake as they flick it, only needs to be done occasionally.

There is no way you will be able to stall up a 3071 unless you open up the torque converter stator. That said, it should feel better with the wire cut still. I assume you are tapping the pink/blue ecu wire and not the pink/blue auto control computer wire like I saw the other day? Where are you located?

I agree, it would almost mimic the stock turbo's boost curve and then just keep going. I would guess over 300kw on e85 if the housing flows well enough. The housings haven't been released yet so you are right, they would be plastic pre-production models. By the look of the wall thickness it will be made of investment cast stainless. I just hope they make them for other turbo sizes...

Thermo's rob power from the engine too, they are less efficient than the engine fan and suck a heap of current from the alternator whenever they are on. If you set them at a high enough temperature so they barely come on you may be better off, that's my plan. One small thermo and one large one set at different temps may help too.

I would assume it is only checking the signal into the ecu, if you unplug it there should be no cel if you have cut the wire and plumbed the wideband's narrow output into it. Hopefully it doesn't monitor the heater current or something silly like that. You could always fit the wideband bung further down the exhaust like they recommend if you have issues.

As long as there is a reliable thermostat in the kit it should be fine. That kit looks ok to me...

I have been looking to upgrade the GTX3071 and cant find many reviews on the new GTX3576, it seems to be the best compromise for the new compressor's efficiency. Hopefully I can find one of the new split Vband inlet turbine housings in GT35 size when they get released in around 2-3 months. Check out the Sema clip for the new housing i'm looking at. No word from Garrett yet as to what turbo's it will fit, it seems to be installed on a GTX28...

My first car was a KE30 Corrola with a 2TG Celica twin cam and 5 speed. Similar to this car.

It has nothing to do with direct injection or not, its the egr that pumps all that exhaust soot into the plenum. A non egr motor will still go a little black due to exhaust coming back up the runner at valve overlap and the fact the pcv is dumping into the manifold.

The VQ25det dosn't have an egr setup, not sure about the VQ37, I assume it would.

Not really, it wont kick down unless you are going slow enough, buggered if I know why as it will kick down when you least expect it on its own. The shift kit makes the gear changes firmer but the stock ecu still backs out all the timing between gears. Fcon will fix that though.