scotty nm35

It would need a tune anyway and its not that had to drop the turbo now, 1 hour out, one hour back in. I might try the .82 first and go the Tial if it still wont build boost at stall.

Does it move more if you take the heat shield bracket off? Changing the dump flange thickness would then affect the opening angle. As Stao said, its not critical as long as you don't get boost spiking at the top end.

100mm drag cooler for a 20?

I am getting prices as we speak, Tial housings are bloody expensive but I only need the housing, not the clamps. Price with clamps is $670 delivered. There are Tial knockoff .82 rears on ebay for $289 delivered, perhaps I should get another one of them seeing as I modified the one I already bought. The quality is great. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/270940066206?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_1907wt_1159

When my Just stopped working I took it back to the shop and asked for a refund. Fuel pump perhaps?

So did they change the timing belt on the 100k service? I would be taking it back to the mechanic that did the work asap and asking his opinion before removing or adjusting anything.

Why the scope? I saw a similar problem on a Supra the other day, new plugs, coil packs were changed, made no difference. Is this a common issue?

Methanol is bad... That shit will kill you. I wouldn't want it laying around where my kids would find it, inside the car or in the shed. Each persons circumstances will be different depending on where the closest e85 servo is, and how old the car is. In general anything r32 or after would be fine on the stock fuel system meaning its just filling at a different pump. Whats so hard about that? I don't understand why every thread has to end in a debate about e85 and its merits. There have been enough applications around the world to prove its power gains and resistance to det, how about we all get on board and help this fledgling industry become mainstream so there is a nozzle in every servo. Its a much better option than LPG imo and modern petrol is crap at the end of the day.

It will snap the input shaft in the gearbox. No good for the street either.

You're not the first person to suggest that. Manual box perhaps? Do I really want rear drive though?

You mean yours? The turbo only makes 2 psi at stall and thats after holding my foot flat for a few seconds. Then it just bogs down. I need it to wheelspin off the line to have a chance hence I need the turbo to make full boost (or close to it) by 3k to match the stall converter. I knew this all along but I wanted to see what the 1.06 was capable of. I ended up with a 13.9 but was going 141.3kph by 1/8th mile after the 2.8 second 60 foot. Only one timeslip as the tards lost the first one somehow. Thats .4sec worse than the last run, back on the highflow with 250kw, speed cut and throttle restriction. Power doesn't make it quicker unless you can launch it unfortunately.

I was definitely reeling the other cars in but they had me by 3 car lengths out of the hole. Just tossing up between the .82 and the .63 rear housings as every other way around the problem involves making the car less drivable on the street. (other than going 3.5L ) I really don't want to go to a 4k stall converter.

No point waiting, I couldn't get the thing to launch at all. Nearly 3 seconds for a 60 foot is a joke. The 1.06 has to go, time for the .63 rear perhaps? I had overheating issues also, not just the water and trans fluids but the fuel was boiling too. It would just bog down and missfire off the line. The trap speed was pretty good, 112mph (180kph).

The hole is what leaks, it constantly bleeds air back to the turbo intake. Try blowing through it, you will feel it coming through the outlet.

What more is there to say? Its a simple air valve. Tap an m5 thread into the hole, loctite a grub screw in there and try it out. If you dont like the way it drives, remove the grub screw. How it feels on throttle closing will change depending on the tune. Boost may raise a little with no bleeding but as for gains, perhaps at 20+psi?

I can possibly make one today, I have a Calder run tonight to get ready for though. Can you pick it up tomorrow? If so PM me.

It bypasses some air constantly, improving the throttle roll off by making it smoother.

A stiffer actuator wont help the wastegate flow more which is what you need when boost spikes. Perhaps you can grind the hole bigger but then you will definitely need the larger actuator.

As above, changed my lines to teflon, 1000's, twin pumps etc. You may get away with the 044 depending on how much you lean on it. I wouldn't trust the stock lines in a car that old if you use them for return, and I would keep an eye on the seam welds in the fuel tank occasionally.

Haha, need a hoist first. I think im getting old. lol.

I have a direct injection VQ25 here with the high pressure mechanical fuel pump. I was going to ditch the heads and put the turbo ones on but you just gave me the idea of utilizing the injectors and pump for water injection. If I could get them to fire at different points in the combustion cycle it could have huge benefits, especially with high compression + ethanol...

Probably the t3 turbo gasket if it does it under boost, BOV if it happens on throttle roll off. It could also be a leaky intercooler pipe, they sound like you're blowing through a folded gumleaf too.

Perhaps do the coke can under the BOV trick and see if the noise goes away. Or drop in and I can quickly tap a thread into the BOV bypass hole and see if it helps. Its a fairly simple valve at the end of the day.

Great, see you there. At least this time someone will know what a Stagea is. Lol.

I did 13.5 with 240kw, a low down throttle restriction and speed cut by 3/4 track. Hoping for a high 11 this time out but I doubt it due to the weight and RWD.