scotty nm35

I would lend my housings out but there's no guarantee I would have a good set if I ever decide to put it back in. I may know where to get another damaged turbo though, I will get back to you.

No idea, perhaps a little. There's no choice for me, the diff has to go back in for grip.

The Fcon gives me standalone control which is the main reason I went down that road. Now I can adjust most aspects of the tune like cold start, throttle, idle speed etc. It seems quite comprehensive from the little I have played with it. The exhaust was where the gains came from, I ran it in 4th this time thanks to the lower ratio diff, that's why the torque was down on the last tune. The two lines were different boost levels, I think it lost power with more boost so we dropped it back down.

I may have a S/H spare here if you need one. Can you get the part number off it or a photo? Which side is bank two? I think its the passenger side but I'm not sure. PM me if you need one anyway.

Thanks Guys. I did notice it lights up the wheels in second now, just by accident of course. While rwd is fun, the PM front diff will be going in very soon.

We finished tuning late last night, changes were: The exhaust: it was changed from 3 inch with cat to 3.5 without. Diff: The car now has a 3.5:1 ratio 350z LSD ECU: I ripped the Emanage/Vmanage out and slotted in the HKS Fcon V pro. Fuel was still Eflex e85, boost was capped at 25psi due to it not making any more power over that point. It seems the compressor is maxed out. I haven't been able to drive it in anger yet, low down it is much more responsive due mainly to the diff. The exhaust works great keeping the Varex valve shut until boost hits for quiet cruising.

Go for a bellmouth dump if you can, splits have too many issues and restrict flow not improve it imo. The cat should be good up to 300kw.

Send it down with the wastegate flange, I can do the same mod as Artz has on the rear housing if you like.

The Stagea made 335 rwkw at 25 psi last night with the new sound control exhaust. Very interesting to drive now, especially in rear drive.

I just realized they are on the rear diff, not the hub. I have some spare ones here too if a cleanup doesn't work.

United price their e85 at 10c less than unleaded apparently, that's what I was told, where as Caltex are 20c cheaper. You will get more K's to the Caltex tank too with more petrol in the mix. Its a bit of a joke we should have to pay that much I agree. Im getting around 20L/100k's with a lead foot on Eflex atm.

I'm thinking the Hicas may be having issues too, you should still have plenty of grip in rear drive. I would suspect a rear wheel speed sensor problem, get the wheel off and find the wire that goes to the hub, slide the disk off and check its all intact and the wire isn't broken. Take the sensors out and clean them too if you can. Anything further will need OBD2 diagnosis.

Reason I ask is the 2.5dd has the same ecu plug, cams and sensors as the 25det. It may make your job easier, especially if you can get e85 and some turbo parts to drop on your current engine. Is there an e85 servo near you?

What engine is in the car atm?

The sniffer dogs must have been alerted. lol. What are you guys doing after knockoff Stao?

The picture makes my head hurt. lol. Can you see how it would sit if you cut the top bend off? It would give you plenty more clearance but then the BOV wouldn't align as well. Keep that as a last resort perhaps. Can you fit up the BOV/breather pipe and see where it sits, the pipes need to bend a bit yet I would say. What is the pod hitting to stop it dropping down more? You may need to trim the 80mm joiners down a little too for more room.

I made it to suit the stock airbox but I would have thought a pod would be fine. Do you have better pics of the area inc pod? Perhaps you need to cut the top bend off the pipe. You can buy silicone covered fiberglass hose protection but even a little exhaust wrap would work. How does it line up with the BOV pipe? Any problems let me know, I haven't done a remote install before.

Positive Crankcase Ventilation Valve, it sucks the oily gasses out of the rocker and dumps it into the manifold but only on vac. I have a secondary sealed catch can for my PCV, it works well as I used to blow oil smoke on startup and now its clear. Keeps the manifold clean too.

Are you going AWD? I would use a 6 speed manual personally.

I'm sure that could be arranged but has Racepace done it already? What did it end up costing? How many bottles do you have left? I think there's still 6 in my shed...

The rear housing has a nice clean path to the wastegate, plumbed in right at the nozzle of the turbo. Of course it will flow better. Its not magic nor a secret squirrel mod, just good design imo.

What? Have you read what was posted at all? You can just drop an ARX diff in, no need to change the front one as the ratios are the same. If you go for the 350z LSD you will need a PM front diff or as Slippy found, a 2.5dd front diff may be the same 3.5:1 ratio.

The car feels much more responsive with the lower ratios, it gets the slug moving quicker but the downside is cruising on the freeway at 2,500 revs. Just what I need, less K's to a tank...

The 350z manual lsd is the one I run too, different ratio so you will need to source a PM front diff in the same 3.5:1 ratio.