scotty nm35

If it locked the stall converter you would stall at lights. It could perhaps unlock it but my money is on a rwd/awd switch. It seems to have been done locally too. I would be asking them to take it to Nissan and plug the consult3 in to retrieve the codes.

Yeh Dale, looking to do a Calder run in the next few weeks, after the Fcon's in. Should be good for a high 11 now I hope.

I've had a few corolla's with 1600's fitted back in the day, nice light cars, I want to keep it Nissan for the next one though. A datto 1600 would be the pick, ex rally with cage even better.

You cant see the actuator unless you're laying on the ground or have it on a hoist, even then would they know what it does? Its all hidden on top of the muffler next to the spare wheel. I could put the heat shield back on and hide it completely if I had to. You can look up the muffler and plainly see the valve, I was thinking a tip that dumps down would fix that. No way they would get their knees dirty. lol. As long as it seems stock from the outside, that will lower my chances of being singled out. If they pop the bonnet i'm probably screwed.

Now have a decent spare box and a direct injection engine, perfect to drop into a small car. Would it fit in a 1200 ute perhaps? Would make a nice daily... Thanks Chadsta.

3 inch off the turbo, with a 2 inch wastegate pipe, merged nicely into a 3.5 inch system. Plenty of flow now for 350+kw.

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As a follow up, I am very happy with the exhaust, I changed the spring in the actuator by cutting it apart, now it opens at around 2-3psi and turns from a quiet street system into a loud race setup as boost hits. I'm planning on adding an external spring to fine tune the actuator next. Hopefully I will be getting it tuned this weekend to see what gains there are, if any. The turbo definitely feels more responsive down low with the added back pressure.

+1^^^ Walbro pumps don't like the low voltage the stock fuel pump sees at idle. If it hasn't been done rewire the pump power using a relay as described in the many threads on the subject.

Fark that thing was LOUD. I am working in the GIO GTR pits, drop past tomorrow if you're there.

So you soldered the AFM? Or can you test with a different one?

^ The radiator is in place, the cooler piping fitted around the core. Just. There was plenty of die grinding involved with getting the flow in and out of the cooler tanks as I remember but it was worth it for the response gained. Edit: Ahh, didnt see the lack of rad.

Or 1000's on ethanol. Duty Cycle 80%. Haha It doesn't change the duty the stock ecu is outputting though Craig. Are you running 54psi at idle?

^ I have a set of those for sale if you want them, $600 with good tyres. I agree, the v35 rims look much nicer.

Try shorting the negative side of the pump to ground, if it still doesn't work grab a Walbro and do the 12v direct power mod.

I don't know how anyone can drive on the road with a screamer, I only lasted a few days of not being able to boost at all for fear of instant defect, car crushing, death by firing squad on the side of the road. But then I do live in Victoria... Tracks have DB limits too, on some cars they dump the exhaust out different sides depending which side of the track the pits (read microphone) sits. An open screamer would have no chance.

I'm not saying the tuner isn't good, (I have heard he's great) just that without VQ specific experience you will be paying for his learning curve, as I did. Directly related or not, the AFM is the main source of load input data for the stock ecu. If the AFM is at 4.8v then the trans is definitely shifting at full line pressure. Further to that, it shifts fine tuned in limp mode, with the EMU setup as a standalone as the line pressure defaults to maximum. (There's just no kick down.)

High flow turbo? Good call. I went backwards on mine, the old Sierra core was great and well set up for the stock stally. Now i'm back modding to gain back the response. Go the 1000's, best option out there imo. You got a tuna picked out?

Sounds like your lockup clutch is slipping, that is caused by the auto computer pwm output and the small lockup clutch they fitted. In manual mode the converter wants to lockup constantly and there is no way it can the way it sags into lockup between gear changes. With 12v wired directly into the solenoid it holds well over 300kw on the dyno. I don't run lockup on the street for this reason but I am trying to source a bigger converter and clutch, and an aftermarket auto controller. These will fix the issue and allow control over this pos RE5 box.

The airflow meter is maxed out so the ecu will give full line pressure. Of course it matters that the turbo ecu expects a ramp in part throttle power output at around 2-3k. An NA engine doesn't have that requirement but it would be nice to be able to adjust it I must admit. My auto runs a Transgo kit, same as everyone else, and pressures are set by the kit. Yes I do have more clutch plates fitted to help transfer the power and prevent slip but these are not required if the original clutches aren't toast like mine were. Base fuel schedule? You mean injector %? I can get that off the Informeter one day if you like, I doubt it would be much over 80%, just like a stock engine. Remember Alex, the stock ecu runs the engine until just before the airflow cut which is up there in stock injector duration.

I use the Pro Sport exhaust temp gauge, its worked perfectly for 2 years since I bought it from another SAU member. They have an annoying beep on startup that you can get rid of, other than that, go for it. Good value for money.

That issue you can put down to the tuner not having enough experience with VQ's, and the fact your ecu isn't expecting the boost hit. Our stock ecu is fine, with Emanage, Fcon and whatever injectors you want to put in. Verified by Cihan, proven by me.

It shouldn't move, flex a little perhaps but only at the end of its stroke. So if the wastegate flap isn't sticky then the bracket must be loose? Perhaps the bolts into the housing were a little too long and they bottomed out in the thread? A 1 bar actuator should start opening at around 20psi using the compressor with no manifold pressure. Just thinking, if there is less restriction in the rear housing then the pressure would be lower, with less force pushing the puck open. Wouldn't that raise the boost threshold of the actuator a little anyway?

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Ah, ok. I might give them a call and see if they can get Ti pipe in lengths. I wouldn't mind making a Ti dump/front pipe with an alloy rear/mufflers one day...