scotty nm35

West Side Mufflers weld Ti but can they get the pipe too? That's the main hassle, what size is it? I would have thought it was unusual for a muffler shop to specialize in Ti? Anyone with a Tig can weld it, welds pretty easy with a back purge (if its not too thin) but you have to clean the old exhaust pipe really well.

It works, finished the exhaust today and went for a squirt. Its much quieter than the old 3 inch Legalis but the boost ramps slower now meaning the valve is opening too slowly. (even though the turbo spools earlier) I need a very soft spring in the actuator, a 2-3 psi actuator would be perfect but I cant find any. I might buy one of these and modify the spring tension. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Adjustable-Turbo-Wastegate-Actuator-TOYOTA-CT26-1HD-12HT-7MGTE-3SGTE-/270918414481?_trksid=p4340.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D18%26pmod%3D270912634695%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6968393460851378814#ht_1864wt_1135 Pretty happy with how it turned out, I got the larger pipe tucked up nicely. Hopefully there are some top end gains to be had too once its sorted.

Just got back from the test drive, no rattles or bangs. It seems about the same noise at idle but its much quieter in the midrange and even the top end, though I cant be sure its opening properly yet. Boost seems to come on quicker and I can really hear the turbo spooling now.

Damn, its louder than the Legalis, even with the flap fully closed... Perhaps they will quieten down after they burn in, still not bad for a 3.5 straight through.

As I'm running stupid boost the wastegate is almost there for looks. (well for tuning anyway) That pipe is 2 inch and the hole is less than half blocked so its more than big enough. It will promote better gas flow and make the 3 inch turbo pipe the dominant one into the 3.5 inch. I can always cut it open if it boost spikes but I have the opposite problem at the moment, boost still dropping off at the top end. Should have it finished today.

Want to borrow my angle grinder mate?

The stock housings flow ok, all you need is a spare set so the wait time is reduced. I haven't seen any of these turbine housings cracking yet either Stao which is good. Someone fit one and get it tuned...

Fark, look at the clearance on those wheels... It will be laggy and restrictive but the wheels wont ever damage the housings, even if the bearings let go. lol.

Fitted most of the piping up today and got it tucked up nicely. 3.5 inch system with two mufflers and a boost actuated sound control valve.

Trying to fit a 3.5 inch exhaust under my M35, not an easy job to keep it tucked up under there for clearance. It has taken a full two days so far...

So that is running off the wastegate spring? Not a bad boost plot... No worries, bring it down one day. I told you the screamer would be stupid loud.

There is a few Hypergear turbos getting around, I doubt any have been tuned so don't take the power output too seriously, yet. Near factory response is hard to believe too, it looks about the size of a Sierra stage 1 so it will probably come on around 3k. Not a bad price though Stao.

Nice result Artz, 98 right? Should see some good power once the new clutch goes in. So you should see 300 before the Eflex goes in?

So buy one and see. The 3.0 has the same sized bore as the 3.5 so it should work fine.

No problem Leon, glad its you fitting it. lol. You got a decent boost gauge? My old one read 3 psi low. Remember to block the stock bleeder or re-tune your controller if you have one, then wind it up slowly, checking the afr's if you can.

What do you mean hunting? Is it raising and lowering revs? Its probably idling in between two cells. Can you raise or lower the idle with the software till you find a sweet spot by chance?

Just buy a VQ30det and drop it in with a 3.5 ecu. Much better engine and no cams to worry about then.

Mine leaks too Alex, cant you just add some fuel to the lower map?

I will still take the starter chadsta, I will transfer the funds tonight.

I will find out soon, it goes on this weekend hopefully. If I lose a little midrange I don't mind, as long as it's not laggy. I can change where it comes in by getting a 4psi actuator or making my own perhaps. I can also change the closed position so it flows a little better. See how it goes I guess. I can always weld the motor back on if I dont like it.

I have the KU21's on the Stagea, very quiet, harder compound too. Good wet and dry grip and cheaper than the KU31's. Last tyres were KU36, very noisy once they bed in and only got worse.

Im sure the roadside rta guys will agree, haha. As long as its quiet off boost why would you ever get looked at? Stuffing around? It took me about half an hour.

I decided to mod the 3.5 inch Varex muffler I bought. I wanted my car quiet until boost kicks in so hopefully this works well. What do you think? The rev controlled actuator accessory has been discontinued according to Xforce, so this was the best option, otherwise I would have to design a circuit, controlling the Varex motor with the car ecu.

Its very hard to tuck them up nicely and not have them knock on the body, I prefer to make them up on the car, so yes I can. Why?

I have fitted a few Varex mufflers recently and was impressed enough to give a 3.5 inch one a go. I didn't really want the whole loud/quiet thing going on so I was going to buy their optional rev actuated setup, unfortunately it has been discontinued. Anyway, I was hoping I could actuate the motor off the ecu via a load controlled output but decided to go the easy way. What do you think? http://www.xforce.com.au/about-varex-remote-control-sports-muffler.php The actuator is a little firm meaning I need around 30psi to open it fully, (10psi is enough to partially open it.) luckily that's no problem. Just have to run some thin airline to the muffler. It should be quiet running around town and snap open when boost kicks in. I have another 3.5 inch mid-muffler to fit also.