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Everything posted by scotty nm35
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Or weld to the turbine housing, much easier and cheaper to fix if something fails. Its a pity the new ebay stainless T3 GT30 rears dont bolt up to the Kando's, that way the bend and flange are all similar metals to the housing. Perhaps its worth machining one out a few mm?
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Nice result Mick O, how long before it gets wound up? I just started modifying the stainless 0.82 rear I bought, I was planning to fit this to the GTX3071 but it looks like I have sold the turbo as a kit so it will be bolted to a GTX3076 now. The price has really come down on them lately, $1300 delivered is bloody cheap imo, and the stainless rear housing was only $250 shipped, or $350 with the vband flanges. The Chinese knockoff Tial housing looks to be better quality than the my 1.06 Tial one which surprised me. Now to hack it up.
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We have had that discussion before. Split would work well if you merge the screamer in just before the cat into a larger pipe imo, even better with an external gate. Its all down to the flow capabilities at the end of the day and my dump is 3.5 inch verses the 2.5 of Andrew's before the wastegate opens. I have started on the 0.82 stainless housing mods for mine, the GTX3076 has the same housings as the GTX3071 so it will fit, and flow more than the GT35 according to the compressor flow graph.
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Slack mate. Upgrade to 1000's for sure, I should have gone the 2000's looking back as im maxing mine with the current turbo. (about to upgrade to the GTX3076 ) Yeh, my dump fits all the stock gear, or I can fit a standard 3 inch flange if the customer wants to get a local exhaust place to make the front pipe.
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I run a similar proflow one but it wont fit with the factory hard line of course. The banjo that gets blocked is in the block anyway, no point filtering the oil afterward.
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Whilst the gate looks great mounted there im worried it will crack eventually. Isnt that the weak point where the manifolds crack without cutting a 2 inch hole? I think you are well on your way to the 300 club.
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We have been over this before, if the oil supply stops, the rear bearing will fail fairly quickly. Definitely check the banjo if you hear the common jet turbine noise and get ready for a rebuild. A highflow will do bugger all for the power output without tuning the ecu. All you will gain is lag unfortunately.
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I can send you some more pics if you like, my dump is a 3.5 inch bellmouth while the AM performance one is a split style, couldnt be further apart in design. I dont think anyone has pushed the limits of this split style to see their flow rate yet. Either way, unless you can get here with the car you will need to buy the front pipe off him as I can only supply the dump interstate at the moment. My dump will arrive wrapped in ceramic heat wrap, includes the o2 bung, lower gasket and stainless bolts. I can also supply stainless studs with copper nuts to replace the old ones if you need them. PM me if youre interested.
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Its not the right gasket going by the picture. Im sure they would send the right one though.
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Wat? You need pressure in the cylinder to bed the rings. I was thinking the same thing Wolverine, I admit I have made mistakes in the past but the less people that know them the better. lol.
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High temp silicone will go hard and brittle on the turbo housing Leon, I only use it if the flange wont seal now. As there is no real pressure after the turbo the gasket isnt critical, it should be fine even if its cracked. Our turbo outlet gasket is VQ specific and was only on the VQ25det's and VQ30det's, you will need to go through Nissan for that one. The pre turbo gasket where it bolts to the manifold is a standard T3 gasket and should be replaced whenever the turbo is removed with a good multi layered stainless gasket. Pressures in the manifold can be quite high.
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It sounds like they are marketing Viagra. Stronger and harder for longer... With less deposits.
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Lol at the marketing... Quote: Fluid strength test - measuring metal to metal contact within your engine The test took place in one of the toughest areas of the engine where the Camshaft lobes and valve gear travel at incredible speeds Here the oil must withstand over 10,000kg of pressure per square centimetre We showed Castrol EDGE is up to 40% stronger* at reducing metal to metal contact compared to a leading competitor. So what does this mean for you as a driver? Less friction, increased efficiency and enhanced driving performance. *In a test of the oil’s strength across a variety of engine speeds, the Castrol EDGE range average metal to metal contact is 40% lower than a leading competitor. ^We asked a third party laboratory to test the Castrol EDGE range using our Maximum Endurance Test and on this test Castrol EDGE was proven to be on average 35% stronger for longer compared to a competitor brand from another major lubricant supplier. At least its an SN oil, should be good for those of us on ethanol.
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Years ago I bought an early Mini, it had been sitting in a driveway for 16 years. We started it on the fuel in the tank to get it onto the trailer (after spraying WD40 down the plug holes). Then again, My mate wrote off his R1 due to stale optimax. Three months off the road it bogged down as he took off out of the mechanics driveway. He gave it some more gas and the bike highsided him. He 100% blames the fuel. Like has been said, if the fuel system is sealed there should be no issue, but how do you really know how sealed your tank is?
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Internal wastegates are always a compromise, (except with the new BW turbos). They never flow well as the exhaust gas cant turn 90 degrees out of the wastegate port when its doing supersonic speed through the nozzle. Making the port larger will only mask the problem, I have also tried grinding the port to allow better flow and it made no difference in that case.
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M35 Front Drive/prop Shaft Needed
scotty nm35 replied to phat300's topic in Four Door Family & Wagoneers
As said, just take it out and run it down there, he can measure it up that way. -
Its a damn sight cheaper to do the fault diagnosis before you decide to change parts.
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I just meant they probably haven't done one before which means they may take three times longer to do the job (as they don't have special tools etc that are required). Most places will over quote unknown jobs too.
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Do they have experience with M35's though? I wouldn't recommend anyone that hasn't done one before, they can be very difficult the first time you work on them and the customer ends up paying for their learning curve. Even properly bleeding the cooling system leaves many mechanics scratching their heads.
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The merge is much smaller that way, it will help direct the pulses into the turbo instead of down another runner IMO Roy.
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Of course it will be laggy if you don't tune for it, even my stage 1 sierra was laggy until the emanage went in. Stao, the oil line you supplied was way too long on the last highflow I fitted of yours, there is a better way to run it too using banjo's both ends. Pm me if you want.
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The ecu is trying to cycle the afr's and expecting the o2 sensor to pick it up for that bank. As you now have the two sensors in the dump it cant differentiate between the signals as they are merged as one. Did you make sense of that? Just switch the o2 feedback off and get a tune, you won't need learning hopefully.
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Just leave it in closed loop, you won't want it learning after the tune anyway.
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If you are able to drive over Dandenong way I can look at it. I have spare coils too if you need one.
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Did you check the belts that drive them?