scotty nm35

Silicone will help it slip off too. I want to use Tarzan grip on mine to stop it leaking at 32+ 80mm is easy enough to get these days.

Or just wind the boost up some more and don't stress about it.

The GTR has a completely different setup, but it's usually nothing a stainless hose clamp or two won't fix. More important is to work out the sock hose length, as I am always seeing low level surge issues with GTR pump installs. The stock GTR pump would probably be fine if it wasn't so old.

Pretty confident it's 80mm not 3 inch, I know the engine end is 80mm. Japan don't use imperial at all afaik. 3 inch will stretch over 80mm but it's a pain in the arse. Better to just get the correct size.

No mate, it will definitely fit. I have made them for VQ30det's before, just in S chassis cars. Yep, hopefully the Stagea one fits, or I can modify it a little.

Exactly, they are race cars out of the box, my 7 has no sound deadening at all. NVH ftw. http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455733-mitsubishi-evo-final-edition/

I have gaskets in stock, and stainless flanges. You found someone else to do it?

Have you got any pics off the net? it's been a while since I saw the back of the turbo, but I thought the flange was the same as the stagea. The dump is very different.

Wait for the new (last) manual evo X, should be a ball tearer.

Oh, don't buy the 400Lph, they are not a great pump. Get the 416Lph e85 one. They flow around 450kw on e85, probably near 600kw on petrol. The 255 will flow 300kw on e85 and around 400kw on petrol, (all at the wheels.) depending on pressure.

LSD, electric seats and pop up TV are all options you could get on the base model so don't limit your search to the tan interior ARX. I prefer the kinky black leather to the grandpa tan personally.

The engine is good, as is the turbo. I have seen stock turbo's with 250,000 on them so don't believe the hype. If they haven't been serviced properly the turbo will fail early so check in the oil cap with a torch. Obviously the lower K examples would be the pick, but you have no way of knowing the K's are legit. Check anything you buy on a hoist, as all the issues are underneath. Make sure you look at the following: Cracks in the rear subframe (no big deal but you will need to get the subframe dropped and re-welded) Rear diff bush leaking black gunk (around 4 hours to replace) Rocker cover gasket on both sides (any M35 will need this by now if they haven't been done already) The front compression bushes(again, very common but easy to change) Front ball joint boots cracking Radiator top tank Oring failure Rear sway bar end links Most issues are from degrading rubber after 15 odd years. Any car of this age will have similar problems. If they have all been done, including highflowing the turbo, it will save you 1000's. As for servicing, I would just drop all fluids when you get the car and replace them with a good quality synthetic.

You modified it, why don't you tell us... You obviously did it for a reason, but without seeing exactly what lines you have changed and where they are plumbed I can't help you, neither can anyone else. It's bad enough tracing the stock hoses around the engine bay. If you don't want the charcoal canister in there, I would be just blocking all the hoses, not looping anything. You will get arse raped if you get done for this on the road, I hope you understand. Race fuel cells have a rollover protection vent, essentially a one way valve mounted in the top. It allows air in, but no fuel should come out even if you flip the car.

Boost leak most likely, try pressure testing the intake, and swap/re-solder the afm if there are no leaks.

PCV gasses get sucked into the plenum with vacuum. What we are talking about is the carbon canister, it sucks the fumes from the fuel tank and pumps them into the engine, rather than out into the atmosphere. The nasty oil film is coming from the breathers, and that's why people put oil catch cans on them.

For not much more coin you could get BC's and adjust them to wherever you like...

I would say you need to swap the turbo injectors out for NA ones, now you swapped the ecu over.

More like 250wkw, possibly 300 max on ethanol, depending on the rear housing. If it's a Garrett core it won't like the high pressure in the manifold, it will likely cause the bearings to fail from too much thrust force, it's pretty common in garrett cored highflows. Be prepared to replace it soon if you lean on it hard. Personally I would be ditching the turbo now before it blows and buying a GTX3071 or similar for that power goal, on petrol obviously as otherwise your injectors are too small for e85.

I am over east if you get desperate, otherwise is Edge motorworks near you? They are just off Ballarat road before the ring road.

That or the valve is leaking. Get a MAC valve.

So the solenoid was blocked or faulty stopping the intake flap from opening in the runners? Personally I would have ditched them, or wired the flaps open.

Yep, plenty of track cars using it for weight saving, but it's much more common in the US. Personally I would only use it for a cat back or diff back.

Greg has a larger turbo on the way, GTX35. Seems the ported head and increased capacity now requires a larger turbo to get even the same power output he had before, a result of slowing the gas speeds down I assume. His 400kw external gate GTX3076 setup will be up for sale now I guess, perfect for an RB25.

A lot has changed in 6 years, there are many more standalone options for the RB these days, most of which crap all over the old PFC. Depending on where you are located keeping the de and slapping a turbo on it can get great results, if you are willing to run e85 as a fuel. Could save you a lot of headaches...

On the topic of rods, the weak point on H beams is usually the bolts anyway. I had to cough up an extra few hundred to get the ARP 625+ rod bolts in my Evo stroker kit. Pistons... Well my stock Nissan VQ pistons have taken 40psi at the track many times, so have the rods. All I did to the stock engine was bolt the heads down harder with L19's after they lifted. As long as you keep the combustion temps under control the stock pistons would do fine.