scotty nm35

If its the wire cut you just have to reconnect the wire and press the brake, you will be good for another few months. If you leave it the car will go into limp mode eventually and limit the throttle.

Leon, may have some cash for you this week. Can you please send your details through? Dont know if I want the controls either if anyone is chasing some. May just use the stalk I think.

Western subs sounded like Afghanistan ffs, bombs going off everywhere all night. Plenty of massive fireworks to send my dog mental. lol. What was the eastside like Aaron? Nice and quiet like usual?

I tried a 5w30 and found it very noisy/tappety. Once I changed to a 10w40 it was much better. I also tried a 20w50 and found the engine sluggish. Whatever works for your engine but I would have thought, in summer especially, a thicker oil is in order.

Youre running a 5w30 in summer?

Gulf western recommend many of their oils for ethanol/methanol use which is why I went with the Sougi with Ester base stock. Not sure where the idea ester is not ethanol compatable comes from... Hopefully the replacement is just as good.

The sensor will only measure ethanol content but the slightly varying mixtures wont hurt much mate, its not like it will detonate anyway just run lean. Just ask for a slightly rich tune. Buy a $200 wideband and make sure the mixtures dont lean out at wot, if they do just add some 98 to the tank.

What do you need looked at? Just the oil leak? I can check it out for you, at least that way you would know its safe to drive. Pm me as your inbox is full, im in Hampton Park.

Agreed, the 2 level senders in the tank run back to a fuel computer that calculates the amount left. it sometimes gets messed up as the fuel leaves a varnish on the contacts. Removing the senders when the tank is empty and cleaning them with ethanol works, converting to e85 helped mine. lol. The ecu will definitely not reset without doing the reset procedure. All disconnecting the battery does is reset your stereo.

Of course, the externals are larger with better flow so they will make more power in the top end. They should also have better midrange without having to put a heavy spring in the actuator.

Do you mean the dump cat or the front pipe one? There may also be a few extra cats from compliancing to pass the emissions test...

If the filter was the reason then I should have blown a few surely, I had a K+N for 2 years now run a Blitz.

For a small batch I would use a 125mm angle grinder with a 1mm kerf disk, then clean it up with a file or flap disk. Mark it properly and you should have no issues cutting a straight line.

No problem, give me a call if you need help fitting, its not hard at all, although the plug is a pain to get off as I remember.

Do you mean the transfer case or the front diff? Cant you just use your original ones? You would have to sort out the ratios though obviously.

Will you have the defect cleared by then? lol.

I have a Heathcote day coming up, would be good to compare times.

Limp, blaming the EMU for your issues... Get it back in mate.

Im free on the 22nd, great idea.

I have been running Sougi 6000 for nearly 2 years now on eflex, no issues with breaking down or going milky. I still have 6 bottles left, I have no idea what i will change to when they run out. Winter is the time to watch as cold starts are an issue with plenty of fuel washing down past the rings. I used 300v with a low temp thermostat and it turned into a milky mess, I dont seem to have any problems now I replaced the stock thermostat. VQ engine/oil temps sit at around 87 degrees which is hot enough to evaporate any ethanol into the catch can. I doubt you will have issues like this on the track as the oil temps will be high.

The board is potted with some sort of gel, even water wouldnt damage it I would have thought. Perhaps the supply voltage is a little too high? No idea really. There are a few different types though, perhaps the older ones had issues and were replaced by better ones? I would try the error codes to make sure, there are many reasons for them to go into limp mode like the brake wire cut mod and throttle motor issues... Perhaps try resetting the ecu properly first?

Ours cant be repaired Wolverine, as far as I know. I pulled one apart and found surface mount processors etc inside them but no dry solder joints. They just seem to die for no reason, although touch wood I havent blown one yet. Are you sure they were genuine Rudi? To run a z32 you would need to tune your car with an Emanage Ultimate or a Fcon Vpro and modify the wiring and piping to fit it. Did your mechanic explain to you that they cant just be swapped?

I thought the Nismo still needed the brake cut to get around the throttle restriction Iain?

On startup, the PCV oil drips down onto the valves overnight causing a little blue smoke. Nothing to worry about but I put a catch can on the hose anyway. The black smoke on boost is excess fuel, meaning the tune may be out. What boost are you running with the new dump etc? Worst case you foul the plugs I guess.

No need to bring the cams on earlier with a 3.5 thats for sure, it will spool the 3036 by 2k regardless. I got the Vmanage installed and it tells me the cam timing as the sensor is the same, just the actuator is electric not hydro so the frequency output is different. Adding 10 degrees seems to max the cams out and the Vmanage cant be programmed as far as I know.