scotty nm35

He just thought you were going to wrap yourself around a pole with your bald tyres mate, he is right you know... What size are they? Want those 225 18's I have spare?

The cams are still working with the Vpro though, you just cant adjust them, thats why you have to leave the stock ecu in to drive the cams and throttle. There wouldnt be much need to adjust them anyway, but its nothing the Vmanage cant help with in the 3.5. I hope the UPREV works for you. Merry Christmas.

Thats the issue with going highflow, boost comes on later and our cars have bugger all low down power. (Mainly due to the low compression.) Mine seems to take off much better off boost with the larger rear housing on the turbo, as there is less exhaust restriction. Throttle response is great once you are on boost.

How do you add fuel to the map with the voltage clamped so low? It's not a set figure, it changes with revs/load compared to what the ecu is expecting.

Damn, so you aren't stripping it Craig?

Im sure Garrett engeneers would be using flow analisis programs for pre-testing not just cutting new wheels and trialing them without some idea of what would work.

What will stop you initially is the stock ecu, we are still searching for a suitable way to adjust it and have to make do with the Emanage Ultimate at the moment. It will allow you to clamp the AFM voltage to get around the airflow cut and change mixtures, timing and injector sizes. Without this you will be limited to around the power Ryan is at. The stock turbo will do 180kw on stock boost and perhaps 200kw at 20psi but may not last long with the ceramic rear wheel. I ran mine up to 226kw on eflex.

I do have a few parts here for you to use if you plan to turbo it, manifolds, turbo, dump etc if you're interested...

I sent my spare drivers side sensor today Jfabs1.

I'm running Aaron's Turbosmart Kompact with the stiff spring at the moment, its quite snappy when backing off but feels good none the less. The stock one was working fine with the grub screw mod but it could be due to the tune. I ran 19psi on the stock turbo for 4 or 5 months, don't do it unless you are prepared to replace the turbo obviously, although I have a spare here. To run high boost on the stock turbo, or any highflow version of it, you will need one of my modified actuators. That should hold around 15psi and allow over 22psi with a controller. Without the stiffer actuator it wont hold more than 14psi in the top end.

So is stalling constantly.

If you had some way of tuning the ecu you could try and take out the fuel dump when the bov opens, I think the Emanage can do that to some extent, otherwise no, the air is metered and needs to remain in the system. Realistically any car with airflow meters can't run atmo, only map sensored cars can which is why the epa made it illegal.

Love that lumpy cam bridgeport note. Need any piping made? I will be happy to take some of your hard earned.

They only feed the narrowband signal that would have been there, not whatever you want it too. We are running no o2 feedback otherwise the stock ecu will add fuel all the time and we only want the emu to do that, especially when ironpaw has a switchable liquid gas system and e85 running with the Emanage on the one map. Disconnecting the o2 will stop the afr's cycling and allow us to lean out the fuel on cruise. Our ecu's also play with the afr's well into the boost area which sometimes isnt safe. I had mine connected for a while but I realized it has thrown many other codes like ignition etc, may as well disconnect o2 and lean out the tune a bit.

I would assume so Harey, unless you can open it slowly. My design didnt modify anything, it's removable and between the TS manifold and TS turbo housing as I wanted to keep the TS when the flap was open. I ended up not making it as the GTX4508 turbo I designed it to go under was too big to fit in the engine bay with 3 inches added to the manifold height.

As far as I know all the VQ's use the same thermostat.

I will give you a call later today if I remember, I have a few spare VQ's laying about.

Get some airflow sensor cleaner from autobarn mate.

I designed a unit also, using a 7psi turbo actuator to switch over. I havent tried making it yet but I came to a similar conclusion, the gate would need clearance so there was no pressure differential. Perhaps drilling an 8mm hole through the flapper would help or filing the sides a bit to let some of the flow enter the other port of the rear housing still?

The bov still works fine with the grub screw in, all its doing is bypassing air back to the intake so there isnt a huge pressure differential when the bov opens. My car ran fine with it plugged, it also held boost better and this would help the turbo last by bringing shaft speeds down. Why compress all that air then bleed it off if you dont have to, especially if you are trying to hold over 20psi. Just run a 5mm tap into the 4mm hole and stick a grub screw into it. (Wont fix farting noises, that would be either BOV piston seal or manifold to turbo gasket most probably)

Yeh, just fine dust particles. Did you clean it?

Mine is hooked up to the informeter analogue input, Exhaust temp is on the pillar.

He doesnt want to block the BOV, just the bleed bypass hole to the side of it.

Lean tuning on boost is not a good idea, cruise is ok to some extent but I would get a temp sensor in the manifold just to be sure before leaning it out too much. Have you checked afr's? I thought our ecu was fairly good until boost is increased. Perhaps you could dump the o2 sensor and fiddle with lowering the fuel pressure if you have a wideband. You also need some way of clamping the AFM voltage as any airflow gains and you will hit a wall.

Perhaps an ecu reset may help Freddy.