scotty nm35

Is the hicas playing up?

I have a spare, other than that either from the US would be cheapest, or speak to your local Nissan dealer.

Try it, you can always remove the grub screw later if you dont like it. It can sometimes cause drivability issues at part throttle.

WD40 is a great degreaser, should work well although it can attack some rubbers.

I was contemplating making alloy ones, these would be much bettera.

We all know the Walbro's drop off up high in the pressure charts so they would work fine on NA cars and low pressure turbos. Thats the reason I lowered the base pressure to 35psi on my setup, that way they are only hitting 70psi max. Much over that pressure (around 80psi+) they will stop flowing, make some awful noises and lean out your engine.

Its ok, I have a spare turbo here for you. Its fairly simple to get the cover off, 2 bolts, 2 nuts then throw the thing away.

1 - To some extent but the ebc will ramp boost harder as wastegates usually leak a bit coming on due to the manifold pressure jump. 2 - Shouldnt need to set it up that way unless someone else is driving your car. Just the warning is enough. 3 - Foot control, learn it.

Lol. You remove the housing from the turbo first...

External gates arent always consistant, just larger so they dont usually cause boost spiking. The issue you will usually see with boost tapering off is the wastegate blowing open from the massive pressure in the manifold, sometimes up around 60psi or more. Most wastegates will leak at those pressures. Added to that is the engine is reving more, and swallowing more air, requiring the turbo to work harder to compress the air. Eventually it wont be able to flow any more and boost will start to drop. Remember that boost is only a measure of restriction. It does make it hard to tune around but as long ars these problems are consistant the tune will be ok. If you are worried, ask them to back it off a bit. (even NA's knock up hills though). Or you can fill on ethanol and never worry about pinking again.

I wonder if the bidders know it's not a PM35.

That one went months ago. Considering how rare the det's are I would be building a 3.5 up for FI.

Worth buying just for the Nismo radiator cap... NOT. lol.

Thats what I run too Cam, only because the sidewalls on my shitty tyres flex too much at anything less than that. I will probably run 34psi when I put the KU36's back on.

Cam's one? What do you want to know about it?

Probably not much help but I have one here with a blown winding, apparently they can be rebuilt for around $350.

Lighter I guess but I would just get a sheet of MDF, make a cardboard cutout then transfer it, cut the shape out and glue somethng onto it for a cover, perhaps with some padding underneath.

Yep, I have a V35 Bride rail in the drivers side anyway. Havent tried the passenger one but i'm sure it would fit.

What do you want made? I can cut out some MDF or perhaps alloy for you and cover it. How much do you want to spend?

No I didnt trim the reo bar, but I had to use smallish pipe to clear everything, and used stainless as it was rubbing. It was one hell of a 180 degree lobster.

I fitted a similar setup to a stagea but actually got it to fit directly behind the cooler. It was a tight bend but seems to work fine.

No need, you dont get camber wear parked in the driveway...

No problem, so what do we use to slot the hole? Is there any instructions?

I searched and couldn't find him either, perhaps he is no longer selling or trading under another name now?

I bought my teflon lines and fittings from TORQUES an ebay seller in the UK, very good prices and better quality than the Proflow gear I bought locally. No issues with them so far after 6 odd months running eflex.