scotty nm35

So your 20 year old clutches started to slip at 255kw? Not a bad run if you ask me. Did you have the nissan reccomended trans fluid in there?

You got a leak somewhere?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TRIFLOW-WET-LUBE-2OZ-BOTTLE-BIKE-PARTS-/260879860656?pt=AU_Sport_Cycling_Accessories&hash=item3cbda6c3b0#ht_803wt_1159

Pink with a blue trace? Pin 55 anyway I seem to remember. Yep, in the middle of the plug.

I did a Ducati track day there quite a few years ago on the GSXR, we used the greyed out track but it was pretty chewed up on the inside of the corners. They probably couldnt afford to resurface it.

Wrong wire cut Paul?

Go to a push bike shop and buy some Triflow, best lube I have ever found.

+1 for Street to Track. Well worth an email.

So they need to be spaced down 3-4mm or more? Did you leave the original spacers in there?

Seems very lean Cam, want to borrow my spare wideband?

Im glad your happy with it Paul.

I had no idle issues with the Deka 610's or the Bosch 1000's.

Its simple, cut the wire, extend it to the dash somewhere and fit a switch you can hit while braking. That will reset the CEL and eventual limp mode. Another way would be to run a little relay off the foot handbrake.

13.8V

With the stock turbo it wouldn't be that noticable, remember they come on at 2k. With a highflow it makes a huge difference. The best thing about the wire snip is coming out of corners on full throttle. Drive it around for a few days, not just a poofy launch or two.

It may be harder to tune for dual boost settings than to just limit the revs?

Nope, youre stuck with the ugly one im guessing...

The last set of Iridiums I went through had a recommended 160,000km life, I got less than 20,000 out of them before the electrode was gone with a 2.5mm gap. Im guessing the ethanol burns hotter to melt the electrode like that. So I should be going for a colder plug again to prolong tip life? Edit: Currently using LFR6AIX-11's, they seem to be better than the IKH22 Denso's I last used.

^^ I agree. I only use one setting on mine, although the Blitz has 4. It becomes a little hard to control the throttle though I have found, high boost (25psi or more) seems to get past the throttle plate with it only cracked open so you get either on or off. That is when you need lower boost for less experienced drivers.

I just thought with a GT40 you would need a fair bit of flow, I have hit over 80% on the 1000's with a GTX3071 on eflex. You may be reaching the limits of your pump, depending how you have it mounted and if the sock is close to the bottom of the tank? I found too with more torque, more fuel is required for similar power output.

That is the radar grill for the auto cruise model.

There is probably a bad solder joint inside the AFM. If you have a soldering iron you can crack it open and repair it using the How To on here somewhere. If not you will have to replace it.

You already had a thread that you never replied to... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/381338-v35-brake-service/ What is it you need to know, just ask for replacement parts for a 350z track with Brembo's I guess. (Touring had the single piston callipers.) Again, I have a spare front seal kit here if you need one, P/N 41120-12U25. It is for any Nissan Brembo apparently. Keep the stock disks if you can, just machine them. They are much better quality than you will get locally.

It sounds like the inner cable is grabbing, lubing it could help but I would say its stuffed.

I have 3 front sets here, I need a rear one myself.