scotty nm35

It uses the stock o2 sensor so it will be about the same on cruise.

Make sure its not the turbo making the noises, is it only under power or can you hear it at idle?

Trying to start the car over and over will destroy the windings in the starter motor. If it doesnt turn over with the new battery, make sure the starter gets power. If it does you may have cooked the starter windings. The initial reason for the trouble starting the car may be harder to diagnose. If you can check the error codes (a quick search will help) you may find the Crank sensor has failed as this is a fairly common problem. Do you hear the fuel pump prime? Good luck, if you get out of your depth there will be someone who can recommend a local workshop able to help. (easier if you put your location in your profile.)

So the speed signal comes from the wheel sensors? Nice. Now to see if 4.11's fit.

Brake booster? Fuel reg or dampener? The only one I have heard leaking, on almost every M35 I have worked on is the PCV hose, it goes hard and leaks around the fitting on the plenum end. The fuel reg hoses sometimes pop off too.

You know what would look great in there... Some spotties.

There's a heap of fake sard regs around so be careful. I'm using an SX reg and it's been fine. Rising rate regs usually increase the fuel pressure double the boost so you could be up there, do you have a gauge in the dash?

Be careful running much higher than stock pressure, the pump flows less and will only supply a dribble at over 80psi. What boost are you running?

Ryan, looking at this pump the sock pickup is the same as Walbro, as is the power plug. Perhaps this deatschwerks IS going to fit ok... Buy it and try? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/379042-deatschwerks-300lph-fuel-pump/

Im around that size too, I sat in the originals and couldnt squeeze my ass in, they were designed for little Japanese asses. Any chance I could come and sit in one?

They are the same thing, all based off bosch bodys and flow matched apparently. Mine idles better now than with the 610's in the rail. They drop in if you remove the spacers but you will have to wire/crimp the new plugs in.

I havent tried them, only the newer Bosch/ID/Xspurts are going to give you the smooth idle though. Be wary of other large injectors. I think I can get the Xspurts for around $100 each from the wholesaler, Injectors online.

I will take it Bob. PM sent.

Nothing else I have seen, all the NA VQ's seem to run a returnless fuel system. Why?

I never ran the single Walbro (I modified the pump housing to fit a Tomei gtr pump) because I listened to the heresay in the forced induction section. I have since changed my tune with regards to them. For all but the highest pressure setups Walbro's work and fit perfectly. Any more flow will require a complete fuel system upgrade. Save your cash and time and fit what works, but you will still need to rewire the power to the pump with a relay. I think Cam was hoping to save a buck and run the factory pump. Of course if it cant supply the fuel he needs there will be another tune on the cards which will negate any savings.

I had to fit an adjustable reg to lower the base fuel pressure.

Of course it looks good on paper, the flow graph is amazing, but remember its sucking twice the current to do that and not just when you have high fuel demand, its constantly drawing around 15 amps from your alternator so you will actually be going backwards(as with a lot of mods I guess.) As far as installing, they may just fit with a new sock but I suspect there will be some major milling required on the bottom of the pump body. You will also need to fit a relay to supply constant 14v, with thick guage wire for the extra current. I doubt the stock fuel pump voltage regulator will handle it for long. You will still be limited by the 3mm outlet from the pump body. I have no idea how much this would flow but its around 300kw on 98 I would say. After pulling the pump body out you will probably agree its not worth modifying such a good setup, which is why we are suggesting the simple Walbro upgrade. Make sure you replace the Oring seal and filter while you are in there and run the tank empty before you start.

No-one has installed one of these pumps, you may have clearance problems with the sock and pickup as they are phisically much larger. I know for a fact the Walbro's fit with only a little modding, same power plug and sock.

My mate has a 32 with a cracked g sensor, its probably had a large shunt. Can this be repaired? Otherwise he will be interested in your board design if it works as planned.

Make sure you get original Walbros, there are chinese copies everywhere. I paid $130 locally from a wholesaler. One will flow over 300kw on petrol, I was looking for a 1000hp ethanol setup for my future modding ideas. The main reason I changed the lines was because there is a restriction right after the pump, the plastic housing only has a 3mm hole coming out of it which seemed to restrict the flow. I dont have that problem to worry about anymore. lol.

They look great and flow well but the downside is they cost twice as much and draw double the current. Thats why I went for twin Walbro's instead.

I have a few to make already, but I need to get more flanges laser cut. I will pm you tomorrow.

The stock restrictors are around 1mm but I have run up to 2.5mm on my stock M35 turbo with no problems. There are some Tial restrictors floating about for Garretts that may fit, or just make your own.

You may blow the oil seals out or damage the bearings if you go too big on the stock setup. How much it will take? Who knows. Just clean it for now. The banjo bolts into the block right behind the aircon pump and in front of the passenger driveshaft. It can be a pain to get out and watch you dont cross thread it when it goes back in.

A teflon sealed locking ball valve will be more reliable than the stock thread and reused copper washer imo, im still yet to fit mine but its a great idea you must admit.