scotty nm35

I can weld pretty well but MS Paint isnt my strong point. Place the Blitz solenoid wherever you want it, run the OUT to the actuator and the IN to the intake near the BOV using new hoses. Use cable ties to stop the hoses blowing off.

The stock solenoid IS the bleed valve. Thats how it works, by bleeding off some of the wastegate pressure through a 1mm restrictor. This needs to be removed completely in your setup and the blitz solenoid placed between the other two larger hoses, it cuts the pressure to the actuator altogether unless energised.

Yep, it wont drip too much.

So you still have the bleed valve setup? Put a ball bearing in there to block it if needed so it doesnt bleed anymore. The hose that goes to the stock solenoid has a restrictor in it so either dont use it or replace the hose at least. Your setup may not work to the same boost as the last car. Turn it down to minimum and slowly wind it up.

Not unless you plan to get on boost straight away, it will prime the line in about 2 seconds of idling.

Yep, obviously the lines will have to be extended. I ran mine to the battery compartment.

Yep, remove the T and fit the new solenoid between the intake and actuator.

Yeh, GTX3071 with 1.06 rear, 45mm external. Ive had plenty of cooler pipes blow off, I had to modify the throttle body due to the silicone not staying put. All my piping seems fine for now. The bonnet heat guard is shreaded from the air pressure when it lets go. Haha. The VQ25 runs lower compression, 8.5:1, so I have that on my side. The ethanol has saved my ass though, there is over 6L per minute pumping in, cooling the pistons (hopefully). Its running 10:1 AFR's on boost and he took another degree out just to be sure. Theres at least another 20kw to be made there but we both want the standalone ecu in before its pushed further. Hopefully soon.

Yep, lol. It doesnt seem to want to die, its had a hard life the last two years...

Got a quick road tune in before the Subaru dyno day on Saturday, Cihan isnt very happy tuning the Emanage at 30psi, I guess I will just have to see how it goes. Craig, is that engine on its way yet?

I will take them, what would postage be to Melbourne?

Bring it over mate, I will look after it for you. I'm a nice bloke like that.

A 304 4 inch 90 degree bend is $44 +gst at Midway metals Dandenong, priced it today.

Wow, not cheap. I could have gotten you ID 1000's for that mate. Do these have the stock denso plug though? Im guessing thats why you bought them?

The last 304 3 inch 90's I bought were $25 each. I usually lobster my bends but the Brobo I have wont cut bigger than 3.5 inch. I have a couple of big power systems to make soon and would have to get mandrels for it but how the hell do people clear speed humps with over 100mm of pipe hanging under the car? I think I will instead make oval tubing, say 3 x 6 inch, hopefully the owners will agree...

What did you end up ordering?

Its probably a dirty carbon track on the pot, there are two carbon tracks inside it. If you can pull it all apart and clean the tracks with contact cleaner it should be fine. Or just replace the throttle pedal sensor.

That's what is inside the stainless woven flex couplings you normally see, I don't know why its not used on its own on cars, can you get it in smaller sizes? I dont think it can be welded either as its too thin, it needs to be clamped. I agree, it would be great for wastegate piping.

So around $200 in tubing instead of $150 right? Labour is where the cost is.

The material wont change the cost much, I would go stainless, especially if you plan to go e85. I think $1500 would be the starting price for a good job, there is an easy 2 days doing it all properly, grinding the inside smooth takes time but nets the extra gains. Dont skimp as crunching the fabricator and making him cut corners will cost you power. Its not just an exhaust shop you're going to is it? A good performance workshop/fabricator is required imo.

Red m35 outbound on the Sth Eastern freeway around Blackburn rd tonight at 7pm.

I decided a 33 gtr box was the best option, I picked one up for $300 with a transfer case so I will see how I go modifying it to suit the VQ35. Hopefully the VQ flywheel/pressure plate and the 33 gtr clutch will match well enough.

I think it really depends how you drive Dazza, long squirts will cause higher piston and exhaust temps, waiting until the engine oil is up to operating temp before thrashing it could help too, but in reality with double the stock power your unopened engine is close to its limits, and so is the fuel. Are you planning on an e85 tune down the track?

They are heat shield/anti squeal shims, not really required especially if you have anti squeal paste behind the pads.

Just clean it out then, you wont find a restricted one unless you go genuine.