scotty nm35

+1 If the actuator is set close to your desired boost any form of control will work well.

I disconnected the torque lockup two years ago, The high stall converter keeps revs up over 2500 when cruising and shoots up to 4k fairly quickly once boost kicks in. I pay the price with less fuel economy though, I still need to fit a switch near the gearstick to lock the converter on long drives.

I believe the GT is the pick for sub 25psi, GTX for anything over that.

I ran Deka's for a year, they were fine. I only upgraded to Bosch 1000's because they were maxed. Either can be installed in the Neo fuel rail with an adapter, plug adapters or new plugs will be required also and rail spacing may have to be modified.

Fueltown is still out according to my mate, he cant tune his old xr6 flash box anymore so is back on 98 until fueltown have stock of e85. He was running Caltex for a few weeks but it just ran too rich. You would barely notice the difference between e65 and e70 on the wideband, I just assumed they mixed it on site as the tank was filled hence the inaccuracy's.

Hasn't moved much from E65 since they started supplying. With ethanol in short supply atm I don't see them increasing the percentage anytime soon. Get a $200 wideband if you're worried.

Because Racecar.

Go the ID/bosch 1000's and e85. Mechanics scratch their head when they pull a plug and see it clean and white.

In or out? I had mine out a fair bit and hit the stops a few times, ended up winding them right in.

I have never had a customer complain of reversion with one of my intakes, as long as the bov points towards the compressor the two bends should stop any further reversion. I do use lobster bends though which may help a little.

Pringles can will always pop, you need Bunnings pvc pipe at least.

He needs the P/N for the passenger bank, that's the only one I have ever seen leak.

I have some sensors here...

Don't I get first dibs? Its my grill...

Silver series one on South Gipland Hwy, 9am. Plates SKY-34 I think.

It's probably a bad connection, but I have a few spare sensors if you want to try one. Try the plug on the sensor first, unplug and plug it back in. It's located behind the drivers side head.

It could be the water temp sensor, or a bad connection? I don't think water temp signal goes to your emanage so you can rule that out at least.

That link seems to show an aftermarket sensor... Quote: How does it work? Simply put, our sensor duplicates the signal that the OEM sensor produces. Your engine control module sees the signal it expects and it clears the engine failure codes. Our Flex Fuel Smart Sensor is designed to use with Regular Unleaded Gasoline which contains up to 15% Ethanol. We do not recommend installing our Flex Fuel Sensor and continuing to use E85. Not sure what they mean though.

I dont know how your valve body has been done, you may not be able to fit the transgo without a stock valve body to modify Ironpaw.

I would just drill it out to 1.5 mm if you plan to keep the stock turbo, 2.5 mm if hou go for a bushed core. The banjo threads into the block just in front of the passenger front drive shaft.

Just crack it open and try soldering the plug pins on the board, dry solder joints are a common problem and break when you disturb them. If the hot wire or board fails it usually won't work at all.

Drop around if you like.

The restrictor is inside the hose, replacing the hose will remove it. That controller should sit inline between the boost source and the actuator, with no bleed setup required. I explained it the other day buddy.

The stock setup IS a bleed valve. As you modify things boost will change.

With the restrictor in place that is all you will see with the stock actuator.