scotty nm35

I had some major issues with emailing him, was taking hours for the email to get through to him and reply back to return. I thought his provider or mine were very laggy. Hopefully this is the case... Do you have his number?

I assume so, unless the limp mode was caused by something else. I have been stuffing around with the home and end stop adjusters inside the throttle...

I found out today, after months driving with the wire cut, it will eventually go into throttle limp. I was driving when I suddenly noticed the throttle wouldn't go past 24% on the informeter. A quick roadside ecu reset didn't clear it, unplugging the ecu did as I couldn't get to the wires. I have a switch in the dash now...

Have you seen those spacers yet Hugh?

I was crook anyway buddy, you didn't want to catch this one... Worst case you could tune it yourself since all the tuners in the country seem to be limp d's with it. I could give you some good pointers. What worries me with your bender is you wont be able to tune the low end without disconnecting the O2, and the top end will be running off the map sensor to some extent. so you can only tune a little in the middle by tricking the ecu. The EMU can do this, and a shite load more with its direct control over the injectors and timing adjustment if you want it. Remember, if you can install it the hard part is done as it runs off the stock map still with no data entered. (unless you change injectors.)

Stop farting around Leon and get the unit that's proven. Not much more than you have spent already.

I had issues with the Mishimoto radiator, the top tank was too big so I had to heat up the airbox and squish it in a bit, same with the intake snorkel.

You too Daleo, description is useless without pics...

No, should be cool. Im fairly sure you can just bypass the factory solenoid altogether for our usual high boost level as the brass restrictor is still in the line to the T piece. The stock solenoid usually opens to allow 14psi, bleeding off the excess pressure back to the intake. If it is closed then the boost will remain low as with cold starts. As Iain said you may get an engine light if the solenoid isnt plugged in, and the map sensor may cause one to show anyway if you bump it up too much.

Those Turbosmart ball and spring style controllers are supposed to be plumbed between the manifold and the wastegate actuator. Follow the hose down to the actuator line, remove the T piece and put the controller in its place with the arrow towards the turbo. The lines will be too large though I think, you may have to run a bit of smaller diameter rubber tubing with some joiners, I used a bit of alloy tube and cable ties. That said it will work as you have hooked it up, I ran mine like that for a while. Do you have a proper boost gauge? Boost may well drop later in the revs as the turbo runs out of puff up there.

You don't need to change anything for e85, your lines are designed for e10 so will last many years with any ethanol percentage. What were you planning to use? If you want to change them you will need a custom pump housing made so the teflon braided lines will connect to it using dash fittings.

Cutting the wire will help with the throttle response, taking off and coming out of corners, but it will throw an engine light if you don't connect it back up every few days. Hence the switch. The Emanage Ultimate is the easiest option for tuning the M35 but you will need to find a tuner willing to work with it. A lot of them have no idea when it comes to the emanage so even if you find one to tune it there will be a steep learning curve you will have to pay for.

Just lift the condenser, it slots in from the top.

So you just shorted the yellow wires and the light went away?

Thats what I plan for myself but not for the Stagea, it would make 800hp fairly easily with a large frame turbo hanging off it so I want a nice light car to drop it into, 1600, 180b sss, even a 240z TT would be amazing imo.

The car drives fine with the stiff spring, I would be leaving it in there if the clamp for the throttle would hold. I dont want atmo, just no leaking to test it out.

No mate, but I have 5 engines now so I don't have to be so worried. lol. I am confident it will handle it with no problems. Famous last words?

Already used the silicone on it, the piston moves fine its just heavier than the stock one, and with the stiffer spring it takes a second to open. It must be building 50 or 60 psi in that time going by the bang when the joiner pops off.

Small problem, the silicone joiner on the throttle body can't handle the pressure and keeps blowing off. I will try the stock BOV as I think the turbosmart one is very slow to react.

I fitted the uprated turbosmart BOV spring and modified the wastegate lines to increase the boost, it managed to hold 2.3 bar now, pulls nicely and even more responsive with the boost helping the wastgate spring stay closed.

I can make the sleeves if you need them... The r34 front Brembos fitted fine and are bedding in nicely.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/JDM-NISSAN-350Z-Z33-CPV3-VQ35-6-SPEED-ECU-/140533790300?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20b877765c#ht_500wt_922 Buy it and try it out...

If you bring it around I may be able to fabricate an alloy one to replace it, im in Hampton Park though. Looks like these are a very common failure and there are no decent aftermarket options for replacement. PM me if you are interested.

Nice, how heavy are they? Do the GTR's run full electrics?

Yep, I re-welded one the other day and it just snapped again, probably best to fabricate a 6mm alloy one if there is nothing else around. Where are you located?