scotty nm35

No problem. Is it on the car still?

Obviously there is a greater chance of the rear cracking from heat after you machine it out but I have seen many cracked stock GT35 XR6 rears, some cracked around the wastegate and others in the nozzle. Where did yours crack? I can have a crack at welding it for you if you like, pun intended. There are a couple of turbos floating about but I dont know if anyone here wants to let just the rear go, perhaps you can buy a S/H one from Japan? Or I could fit a GTRS with tial rear and external gate in there...

It looks like it will work fine. Just heat the tube and fold it over perhaps?

This is a nice fan cooler with thermo switch for front guard installs. My mate runs a home made setup in his XR6 that works well, this one looks heaps better than his. http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Hi-Tek-Automatic-Transmission-Cooling-System/Hi-Tek-Automatic-Transmission-Cooling-System-10x7-1-2x4-with-7-diameter-fan This one Jasevr4? http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Automatic-Transmission-SuperCoolers

I have both on mine, neither build up much but the intakes are noticeably cleaner. I still get a little oil in the intake even with SS wool stuffed in the can. The hassle with a catch can is having to drain all the water out, probably not an issue in warmer climates.

There may have been oil pooling in the stock breather hose at the head end which ran down when you plumbed it in? My catch can usually has bugger all oil in it, just condensation. Don't give up on the intake will you mate, just try again. I made a few before I worked it out. Cheap tig and some stainless?

Ive gone back to the Emanage for now, its such a simple swap anyway. I will cut it out at a later date and try again, if I dont buy the Haltech before then... Believe me, I wish it had gone better but with limited tuning time and not getting the tps signal what were we to do? I want control of the cams and the cable throttle is awesome to drive with so the PS2000 is looking to be a better option for me I feel.

Nope, different pinouts. Perhaps a 350z Haltech platinum pro?

If I had a spare 10k that would be the best option but I dont. PS2000 and a cable throttle will do the job for 2k plus install.

I would just make it or modify an existing BSP one. Where are you located? What thread goes into the block?

Cool but what is this Facebook you speak of? Just do a Garrett setup like mine, I miss the screamer.

I agree, I think the Impul is playing up, may be best to fit a stock ecu in there as without comms you cant reprogram the key. Shame, you will hit speed cut with the stocker in there.

The throttle wouldnt work with the short time I had to tune it so I just fitted the old cable throttle until I could work it out. Runs fine just that the stock ecu is in limp so the cams wont advance. Theres no way I could live with a laggy pos like this, the cams allow around 30kw of midrange right where you need it. Its a completely different feeling having full control of the engine and throttle, for a change.

Yep, the light sensor triggers the "night" level when I go under a bridge.

Where have you plumbed in the BOV, it sounds like you haven't merged it into the intake properly... I made a new intake to throttle today, to try and fit the electronic throttle (without the butterfly in it). The cable throttle has been working flawlessly but the cams still arent working, even with the gutted electronic one still plugged in. The turbosmart BOV needs a much stiffer spring too, I had it venting and it leaked badly, I removed the hose and it still leaked on boost. Blanking the hole caused the hoses to pop off, ruining the under-bonnet sound deadener. The Fcon has a miss which im not happy about, probably caused by the emanage being in the circuit still. That and the cams not coming on make it feel very laggy, it feels dead down low until I get above 4k, looks like the Emanage is the better option at the moment. I may end up going with the PS2000 soon if this goes nowhere.

I get them laser cut, I could get it without the inside done but why bother when there is a cut-out in the turbo outlet anyway. Just make a bell-mouth, it will flow much better... I have been waiting to see your work.

Is that to beat you over the head? I have also had the starter go, the copper winding overheated and blew apart at the commutator. No amount of bashing is going to fix that, im sorry Aaron.

I can do it on a saturday. Pm me. What size is the exhaust?

The clutch friction material doesn't like it, mine used to flare to redline on the freeway occasionally at part throttle, then be fine for a while. The valve body is setup for a particular grade and friction and anything outside that may cause issues. Once you get your valve body modified it "may" be ok to use but i'm not guaranteeing it.

Different grades react differently, just like engine oils. You wouldn't put 25w60 in your stag.

The chances a ten year old car would have under 60k on the odo are pretty slim, most have been wound back one would assume. I wouldn't worry too much, these are robust cars and with very little maintenance will probably do half a million k's without too many dramas. The gauges are on the base models, and they come with and without the screens so its probably best to check before you buy it.

Kewish overfilled mine knowing I was going to put a cooler on which would suck half a litre out. They also filled it with Dextron III as the clutches have been replaced with aftermarket. I wouldn't recommend Dextron with a stock gearbox though, its probably why mine blew in the first place.

Its an ecu that takes full control of the engine, other than the cams and throttle. The stock ecu remains to control them and the rest of the car. I just got mine installed tonight but there is a few niggles to work out before I would recommend one. The other hassle is finding a tuner, there are very few HKS dealers around the place and they charge through the nose... The Nismo ecu is a plug and play remapped replacement computer that doesn't "need" a tune, but it would still need an Emanage to control it imo.

No real issues other than the ceramic wheel turbo giving out fairly regularly, there is none of the RB oil system issues either, well sorted with the twin pump scavenge design. As with many auction vehicles there is a reason it's being sold, usually the turbo bearings screaming or some other mechanical part failing that the owner didnt want to pay to fix... Local parts can be an issue, not that they cant be sourced, theres plenty in Japan. As they start being wrecked here that will change. Most parts can be sourced through Nissan too. As suggested, get in the Stagea section and read up, there isn't a better place to find info.