scotty nm35

The shifts at light load are perfect as the pressure is lower, mine shifts gently most of the time unless I get on the gas, the pressure adjustment works off throttle pedal position I'm fairly sure.

Cmon, Iain takes forever to do anything...

So don't do it, no-one is forcing you. Fact: Aaron blew up two turbos because his restrictor was blocked. Fact: I ran 20psi on the stock turbo just to prove it wasn't going to crap its self or shear the ceramic off the shaft. Nissan don't care what happens after the warranty has expired and cant be held responsible for sub-standard servicing or oil selection causing a build-up of crap on the inside of you engine. The stock restrictor is 1mm and obviously blocks very easily. The front banjo bolt is the restrictor and can be removed with a little patience. The turbo seals are steel so I dont understand how you would think they will "blow out". Drilling it out is mandatory if upgrading to a bush core highflow btw.

I made over 200awkw on a 2.5 inch dump/front pipe mate, with the stock turbo...

I have made a few for local guys that can drop in with their car, but every one of them was different. (pod, bov return, turbo intake size/position.) Makes it very hard to mass produce and make on the cheap unfortunately. Its the fiddly bits like bov return, breather etc that take the time to get right, the steel bov piping also needs to be modified to align with the intake fitting.

Thanks Craig, am I first cab off the rank? I have to get rid of this vibration under acceleration... No left hand pulling here, thats the missus job...

I agree with Cam, dump/front pipe, EMU and tune for 20psi on the stock turbo. As long as the oil restrictor doesnt get blocked it should last, mine did for over 4 months. Then save for the turbo rebuild... (Aaron, I think 2.5mm would be better)

Couldn't make it work? Shame, it took me hours to make. The first intake I designed failed because the airflow sensor was mounted on a similar bend, I hope you don't have the same issue mate. How does it drive?

I am fairly sure the 2000's will have similar issues, especially on ethanol, as they are both natural gas injectors from what I'm told. The o-ring isn't rated for petrol (long term) and won't be warranted, especially with e85. If this is true the 1000's may be the only Bosch option. I also have reservations on the spray pattern with the 2000's as the jellybean plate after the nozzle is designed to desperse the natural gas, not sure how it will work at high liquid fuel flow. Has anyone seen a video of the spray patterns on these injectors?

We test fitted the Fcon today and got the car running, had a few issues with tps signal and idle so we may be running the cable throttle again. I'm not sure yet, so I reverted back to the emanage tune for now. It was interesting having a standalone running as a p1ggyback with an emanage p1ggybacked also, being tuned/logged simultaneously. lol.

You don't realise what the penalties are like for a 12hr Sunday shift do you...

PM perhaps?

Sorry, working dayshift that day Aaron. Have a good cruise guys.

Please try to stay on topic Duncan. The only time I changed a noisy chain it was a failed tensioner, much more common than you think for a mechanical spring style tensioner to fail, hydraulic ones I have never seen a problem with.

Yep, if I can offload this setup as a kit with a .82 Tial rear I will upgrade to the GTX3076, keep the 1.06 rear and make another set of pipes/adapters up. I have a fair bit of interest already for kits if I want to jig them up but i'm not set up for production runs. I have been giving the 71 a hiding to iron out any issues it may have long term. The only problem found so far is the V-band didn't hold tight and allowed the turbo to twist, rubbing the compressor housing on the chassis rail around corners. I tightened it right up this time but if it moves again I might just weld the adapters onto the rear housing.

Ooo, nice. I cant wait to get my Brembo bling on... I just finished re-kitting them. Pics?

With a .63 you would need a large external to bypass enough exhaust or you wont make the power. Its too small imo which would cause massive pressure to build in the manifold and less energy to spin the turbine. I would say .82 is perfect for the GTX3076, if not the 1.06. You have another issue I think. Want to swap? I have the GTX3071 and want to upgrade...

Lol. I thought they knew their sh*t... Yes. And its a requirement if you plan to bump up the power with an ecu. I cooked my auto on the dyno 2 years ago. Just don't open up the converter whatever you do.

I spoke to haltech a month ago, they suggested a ps2000 as does my tuner but we are talking a week to setup and tune with no guarantee it can control cams etc or communicate through the can network. Perhaps I will go that way if the fcon doesn't pan out but I doubt it. Too much setup time involved but a great option if someone wants to spend the coin on r+d, (plus 2k for the unit.)

My exhaust has doubled in volume since the large turbo housing went in. There's no room for another muffler though.

I thought you were saving for my turbo kit, looks like the missus is on to you mate, I hope she isn't reading these threads...

Trent, the VQ35 throttle body does have base idle and home point adjustment screws, you just have to crack it open. I can bring my spare one down and show you if you like. I never bothered as my idle jumped to 800 once the emanage was fitted for some reason. How did you go with the return-less fuel system? I would have thought you would need an upgrade with that. Did you use the platinum pro or the PS2000 mate?

A few months... I only have 8 bottles of 6000 left Birds.

I have a lathe the disks fit onto Tom but I could never hold them in the chuck well enough to face them properly, they need to be bolted/clamped in. My local bloke machines disks for $20 each anyway so I don't bother. I have a set of Brembo's I am rebuilding at the moment, new seals etc. When he machined the Brembo disks he had to change to a carbide cutter as they were so hard. Pita for him apparently.

So this one has mild flanges with stainless pipe? Not sure about that. It looks like a good copy of mine otherwise. I agree on most of his comments, bell mouth is definitely the go, although the o2 placement will make it bloody hard to do up the middle bolt, he should have moved it over a bit not copied the stock location. What are you doing for heat shielding? That sucker will heat the floor like a blowtorch... Now you have to fit it, good luck... Get some bandaids.