scotty nm35

Of course, youre paying for the r+d. Lol

Whatever works for you I guess, if you come up with a better option I'm all ears. The 45mm external gate is working fine too but it's still dropping 4psi by 7k. The 1 bar spring isn't enough to hold 20psi let alone the 2 bar it's running ATM.

There are no aftermarket options for us. I only replicate the heavy actuator with the externally adjustable spring to upgrade the stock 7psi one, making sure the spring pulls straight is the key. Its much smarter than winding a heap of preload into those adjustable ones you see around and it fails in the "low boost" setting for most of the scenarios I have thought of, unlike those. There is no difference in operation between my spring on the side mod and a 17 psi hks actuator so I don't know why everyone is so against it. Come up with a better reason than "its backyard" and I will discuss it as all my mods are backyard. lol.

I hope you do, it would be nice to have best figures from your setup for comparison. It will piss me right off if the tax bumps up the price of e85, the carbon I burn is mainly from the atmosphere, captured in the wheat/sugar plant and the waste from their processing is converted into ethanol again. Other than the cost of producing it and transport it is carbon neutral. The government should be putting massive resources into all alternative fuels instead of money grabbing from all the newcomers to the game like ethanol, bio-diesel and CNG not pushing electric vehicles that cause more fossil fuel to be dug up. Hopefully the proposed 40 billion in grants will go someway to help but I doubt it will be spent wisely. (Bloody Insulation debacle and solar scheme/scam)

Mines bigger than yours Craig, just ask your missus... Note the correction, 0.9 which means -10% correction, compared to none when yours was run up.

Injectors online (AZNEW) in Melbourne will match the online price and they can supply plugs/pins for under $50. The 610's are high impedance but I think you may need an adapter on the top to suit your rail, and some new spacers. Look for the how to on installing aftermarket neo injectors.

Just under...

Yours is neo right? You can get 14mm Deka 610's on ebay for around $350. Can you do some cashies on the side on the weekend?

That pic on the right shows a quick squirt up to boost, hitting 1220nm and 26psi. Cihan crapped himself and took another degree out when he saw that. lol.

Of all the dates its the only one I couldn't make. lol. Damn you work.

I would guess its seeing a problem and going into some sort of low power mode. Do you have an engine light coming up occasionally? Have you cut the Brake signal wire on the ecu? That would do it. Either way I would get rid of it but understand you will need a tune for best effect if you go higher boost, grab an emanage and lean the mixtures out, even stock boost can get you over 180kw. The gas can be tuned to some extent too if its anything like Jethro's, possibly netting more power. I noticed those valves work on bleeding the air off as well as a ball and spring type of regulator. I prefer the Turbosmart ones personally, or just modify the actuator for the best response. What boost do you want to run eventually?

Its not aftermarket, its factory aero. Get a shift kit man, next best thing.

Thats a very wavy line Craig, it needs to be smooth like mine...

I'm not sure RVO's are as good as a Full stage 2 Transgo though Aaron, I think they only replace the springs with heavier units not replace the valves. That said, they are handling the power just fine. My re5 has had a full rebuild with power pack clutches and high stall, the car will hopefully crack 11's next pass at Calder so the boxes are quite strong with the slushiness removed. Not sure about Perth but theres MV in Adelade and Kewish in Melbourne also.

It sounds like one of the injectors is stuck open, flooding one cylinder with fuel. When you tried to start it you may have blown the head gasket but hopefully (if it is just the injector) dump the oil, replace the sticky injector and you should be right. I hope the mechanic can diagnose it for you quickly.

I use both too, its the only accurate way to see whats going on isnt it? Im sure most tuners would prefer to have them in the dash if possible. I used to run the egt sensor in the dump and noticed a 100 degree increase in temps now its in the manifold. When tuning last month I noticed as we increased boost past a certain point the power didn't increase but torque continued shooting up, how can this relate to your equations?

Did you ring Nissan? I got a 350z one so just give them your sister's vin mate. Edit, here's the number... http://www.injectedperformance.com/nissan/nissanfactorygastanko-ringfor350zg35.htm http://www.amsmotorsports.com/shop/ind/350z-g35/fuel-tank-o-ring.html http://www.dealerdirectparts.com/2008-NISSAN-350Z-NISMO-Fuel-Pump-Tank-Seal-p/nissan-5175579-350z-n-2.htm My new one is blue and doesn't stretch like the old black ones.

What suburb? Pm me.

The wastegate hole is too small, to open it up much more than stock you will need to put a larger flap on it. The upside, it should make more power then. The downside, with a larger hole there is more area for manifold pressure to be pushing the flap open, so you may need a stiffer spring/actuator.

No heat issues here, and my turbo used to get very hot, no sheilding. The spring should lose tension and lower boost if there is a problem, there's 6 or more stageas running this setup with no complaints yet.

Lol, but that 1980's tech is pulling the numbers too, what have your wheels proven themselves to in the M35? I feel that size core will make the car run like a slug unless many more mods are done as these cars limit the throttle in so many areas. Have you driven one before and after? The main issue we have is the turbo is wedged in a tight spot and gets very hot. Have you replaced an M35 turbo yet Stao? The oil line is the hardest part to get to and cant be tested until the job is finished. As "old" as the banjo bolt design is, it never leaks if you replace the copper washers and the steel line can handle the heat much better than any teflon braided hose. Why reinvent the wheel if you dont have to? Cant you just run the skyline CHRA like all the other turbo builders? The intake isnt as easy to replace as you think either...

Brembo original disks FTW! Hard as Fk! ($400 each)

I asked the guys at Autobarn if they had heard of Sougi, they hadn't even though they are one of the largest GW stockists for automotive. They told me the rep had said nothing about it and just stocked the shelf with the cheap crap. They rang Repco and Bursons for me to chase some up, they had never heard of it/stocked it either. Great marketing GW. I wonder why it never took off? hahahahahahahha

If you do a flush its good practice to dump the new oil after a few hundred so as you never get it all out. Just put some cheapie oil in there for a few days. M35 doesnt have a cam belt its a chain, water pump should be fine but plugs will probably be shagged. Dash torque gauge will only move a little on breaking traction or high G's as our cars are rear drive for the most part.

While cad modeling the intake plenum cam found that exact size to gain massive midrange torque.