scotty nm35

The more boost you run the smaller the piping needs to be. Unless you are chasing over 600kw I would leave the stock piping in place.

If some of you gtr owners are that purist, perhaps the stock exhaust is the go? I am sure Nissan will still have a few in storage. The unequal length sidepipes on the Gibson GTR I worked on had a beautiful note at 8000 revs.

4 inch intercooler pipes? Man... What's wrong with the 80mm?

Lol, you believe a youtube sound clip? That is obviously not just swapping the front pipes. It's the mufflers that change the note, not the pipes. I agree, it makes little difference to the price, although there are many more bends and you will be sacrificing flow for this equal length nonsense. I like to tuck my systems up, not have them hanging down lower. Each to their own I guess. This was Daz's car, he already had a twin 3 inch system, I am just making it work with the taller block. I have done a few twin 3 into 4 inch systems, usually tapering back to 3.5 at the mid muffler.

The unequal length twin 3 inch system on the 33 gtr I have here sounds awesome, if only the 3L bottom end didn't make it sound like a VL. You seriously think a few extra inches in a front pipe will make it sound any different?

Yes, the SAFC. Have you checked the wiring between the SAFC and the ecu?

My single tip 3.5 inch Varex used to flow really well, and I agree they are a good thing when they work to lower the exhaust volume, even though it sounds like you just shoved socks up your tailpipe. Now the stupid valve is stuck shut causing lag, huge losses of power and it sounds like a bag of dicks vacuum cleaner on boost. I think I will just fix it properly by removing the pos. I would buy a new one if the price was good, but the Australian distributor is a real rude karnt and is asking twice what they are worth.

They fit well, and drop the seating height by at least 3 inches. Now the missus can't see over the dash.

What's the purpose of the equal length? The last few I made have been twin 3 into 4 inch stainless, but there is hardly any room left to muck around with equal length pipes... It will just mean more bends and more restriction. The idea is to get the gasses out as fast as possible, with the least restriction through the straightest and largest pipes that fit.

Euro 2's with V35 rails pretty sure.

This. Or just go external gate and never worry about it again.

It's not the fuel map I would be worried about, it's the timing map.

Stock injectors and fuel system running 91 and a secondary system running Ethanol/methanol/C16 under boost.

I usually run around 5mm of preload, or slightly over half the width of the hole. Depending on the spring it will take a bit of effort to pull the actuator back over the wastegate pin. The more preload the less the wastegate will travel, so you may need to dial it back a little if the boost is rising higher up in the revs. (unless that's the boost curve you are going for.) Don't lose the circlip.

Getting those Sards to idle nice will be a tedious task. Shove some faster, modern injectors in there. Still working well too. It likely saved my engine at Sandown, along with the ethanol of course, as the reg vac line popped off. It was running 16:1 down the straight at 32psi.

Keep the iridiums and gap them to .6 is my suggestion. What heat range are they, 7's or 8's?

More like you toasted your ecu. The fuse for it should be in the IPDM behind the battery I think. Why were you bridging the VCT wiring? I have a 2.5dd ecu here somewhere if you need one.

I already made a Vac operated 3.5 inch valve, it's on my Facey page below. Boost actuation doesn't work as it's very laggy with the valve closed, it needs to open before the 0 psi crossover. I would prefer a mechanical solution like a simple air valve to an electric motor driven off the Haltech output, but both are easily done. Rather than a 1 inch muffler bypass as the Varex runs, I would use an oem style glasspack muffler in 2.5 inch, and bypass that with the 3.5 inch and valve. At least that way it flows well when closed while keeping noise to a minimum. A loud car/bike can be heard from km away. Closing it when you see the cops is a little too late, you are better to have it as quiet as possible at all times to avoid defects etc. Perhaps i'm just getting old.

You heard my evo, it's quieter than the Varex on my Stagea when it's closed yet still makes enough power to smash both of you at Sandown. . So what you guys are saying is you want a loud 3 inch which you can make quiet when you want, as opposed to just making it close to legal DB and not having issues? A Varex is nearly $500 these days, I just don't think they are value for money anymore.

They fail stuck closed usually, other than that I have no idea if it's mechanically internal or the dodgy electronics. I have seen it at least 8 times now, sometimes on newer mufflers. How many K's you done on it Birds? Ever got it hot at the track? Considering the price, and the hassle it is to repair them, why not just use decent mufflers that quieten the system down all the time. Considering I can get a similar muffler without the valve for $100odd, you will pay close to $350 more for the valve and remote which is crazy considering the (lack of) quality. I was the one pushing them years ago, but I have been let down too many times. Installation issues? It's not a 5 speed auto valve body replacement we are talking about.

Chemical rust inside and out, which will eventually rust right though, starting with the mufflers. I give untreated mild systems about 4-5 years before failing on petrol or ethanol due to the acidic nature of the exhaust. (petrol or ethanol) Stainless on the other hand, if good grades are used, will literally last forever other than needing to repack the muffler, and the materials are usually less than $200 more. After fitting many Varex mufflers over the years and having most of them fail in the same way, (including mine) I recommend not getting one of those overpriced crap heaps and just run a pair of stainless absorption mufflers. With two stainless mufflers, a flex and a few Vband clamps I can do a stainless 3 inch system for $800 to $1000, so that system sounds way overpriced unless it's a twin 3.5 inch.

$195.

The Turbosmart springs will soften fairly quickly with heat, always good to go higher than you require as they will settle to a much lower boost from my experience. My three springs should be holding 26psi, the most you can shove into the smaller top cap. It only ever ran 24 off the gate, and has now dropped to 18psi. Without the 5 port MAC valve holding boost on the top port I would have no chance to run 30+.

Those 1650cc injectors get released here in a month or two I am told, with much more reasonable pricing compared to the ID1300's. Short body so they will fit anything.

Which turbo?