scotty nm35

Mine smells like ethanol when I drop it. Thanks for reminding me to drop it for the dyno next week Birds.

The water jacket heats the oil quickly up to operating temps, specifically the oil being pumped around the engine. It just means you can get on the gas quicker but is still takes twice the time generally to heat the oil. After this point its just backup cooling if the oil ever heats to over 90 degrees. There is a special orange oring behind the water block thats leaking on Aarons, he could have just siliconed it up but I suggested a new seal, mainly because I don't like silicone in the oil pathways if you can help it.

Neither of you have a clue.

Heres a diagram of one way to set it up. Found the Turbosmart PDF's, when I look at the 45mm it shows 4 different ways to set it up. http://www.turbosmartonline.com/index.php?s=downloads

This is the one I have, just waiting on a 12v coil for it. My tuner has said to just try the standard Blitz solenoids first and see what the boost control is like.

I have seen solid mounts but I wont be going down that track unless I really have to. If the turbo touches it should just spin on the vband I guess, and I may be able to move it in a little more yet. I cant wait to hear the noise as it comes on boost.

I was thinking if the Blitz can't control it very well, perhaps the Emanage can? I'm pretty sure you can set up any pwm output you like and map it off the boost sensor right? Here are some pics of the install so far.

I have the 3m heatsheild stuck there, and I have a turbo blanket to wrap around the turbo and adapter so it should be ok, I hope.

It will fit or the 5 pound mallet is coming out of retirement.

Plenty more work to do yet. There is 5mm clearance from the gearbox housing and 10mm between the compressor housing and the chassis. Literally the minimum I would allow. Lucky our engine mounts keep it nice and tight so it should be fine.

Yep. Lol

I finally got time to fit the GTX today, let me say now its bloody huge and only just fits in there. It sat a bit lower than I hoped too, I need to make a 90 degree oil drain to make it work. Everything else, although tight and time consuming, is easy enough to make now. Heres some idea of what I am dealing with... Thanks Aaron for the help, we set a new record of 1 1/2 hours to remove the stock turbo.

My opinion, ethanol makes more power due to the lazy way it burns, right through the piston stroke, which in turn makes more torque. That's why you can pump so much timing in without going backwards or detonating. As the exhaust is cooler and less dense (less carbon?) it actually causes more lag than a petrol tune I have noticed.

Exactly, the gasses actually make their way back into the intake on valve overlap I have been told, thats why they carbon up. Not the best way to make powah, still it works. The ethanol just gives me a false sense of security.

I hope to run fairly high boost occasionally, not sure how the Turbosmart will cope with 25-30 psi as the heaviest springs are 1 bar. With the MAC valve I will definitely have no issues. Don't people usually run these for high boost? Why are the wastegates fitted with two ports otherwise? I don't think the Blitz will have a fit as it already has to deal with its normal twin solenoids and the spiking they cause. I had a look inside the solenoid box a while back but I cant remember if the coils had diodes across them, perhaps I should start there. Thanks guys.

It is just a no/nc air switch, to keep pressure on the spring side of the wastgate until boost, when the solenoid is energised and the pressure swaps ends to open the wastegate. There were a few people running them with link ecu's when I did a search but I need to know if the Blitz DS will work. As its only one coil instead of two it should I guess.

I am in the process of installing my GTX3071, im running a turbosmart 45mm gate and was looking to upgrade the blitz dual solenoids with a MAC valve to help hold boost. Will the blitz unit run it ok? I have read it may need a diode across the wires to stop back emf spiking. Anyone upgraded a boost controller in this way? Thanks.

15% would be the gain with no extra boost. All depends what the tuner is comfortable with at the end of the day. The stock turbo only made 1kw extra going from 17 to 18 psi but made another 100nm so even if the power drops off torque can still be improved. Not bad for a tiny ceramic wheel imo.

Im now running the stock M35 turbo, similar to an 0p6 34 wheel on Eflex atm on a temp tune. From 180kw on petrol to 225 on ethanol but it noses over as soon as I hit stall, 4000 rpm. Very responsive, too much so. I would hate to know the pressure in the exhaust manifold, it must be over 60psi.

You will need a plug in Haltech platnum pro or similar, otherwise you will have issues with the stock ecu going into limp. There have been quite a few boxes sell over the last few months but they dont stay for sale long. It wont be a cheap swap and there will be quite a few hurdles you havent thought of yet like getting all the interior parts from japan, manual pedal box, console etc.

DP

I was running a simple stage 1 sierra bushed highflow, 250wkw at best limited by knock to around 18psi. With the e70 I could run much more boost and timing gaining 50wkw at 20psi. The compressor didnt have much more in it though. I assume the GTRS would be similar, possibly able to run more boost than my highflow. I used to think it was best to max out a smaller turbo but I realized the pressure in the manifold was just too great and not allowing the cylinder to empty of exhaust properly. I guess this is where the extra torque comes from when going to a larger rear housing or turbo?

That setup should be fine, have you checked for boost leaks? Stock bov?

Trent could sort those out for you. Fill in the rest now to give us a better idea of possible restrictions. Whats the intake like, do you have any pics?

Try royal purple 10w40, motul, gulf western, all have group 4 and 5 oils and are available at autobarn. They may have to order them in if they are too tight to have it on the shelf. Have you tried Harold at performancelub? Here is some redline group 5 from his ebay page... http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/REDLINE-Engine-Oil-10w40-Cheapest-enquire-/180636855989?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2a0ecbaeb5#ht_1545wt_905 I havent tried the Redline but I heard its one of the best. How much were you planning to spend?