scotty nm35

Its not the turbo's fault, or the car really. The banjo bolt restrictor would have been partially blocked in Aaron's car causing the bearings to fail. Can you imagine how easy it is to block a 1mm hole with crud? I bet most of the turbo failures have been caused by oil starvation as im running 19psi on the stock turbo for 3 months now without an issue, and at 225kw so the shaft speed is right up there...

For you, it would slightly increase response and take a little from the top of your power curve. It would also be around 5% less efficient. A switch to turn it off is easy, you just drop the wire through a resistor to ground. What I have is slightly different as I cant use the lockup clutch anymore in its stock form. When you shift into manual, the converter tries to lock under full load, mine cant due to the huge difference in shaft speeds. I have disconnected the solenoid but I fitted a switch to slam 12v straight onto it, for dyno tuning mainly, as its very hard to tune the low end otherwise. With the switch on it will hold a bit over 300kw before slipping back onto the converter so I have no idea what will happen with the new turbo. Obviously we will have to tune low boost first then add fuel with the map sensor. If you like driving in D it wont help you much, if anything it will only suck more fuel as it always wants to be in 5th. (Who am I kidding, what low end. lol.)

Measure how far you want the injector to drop, then cut the same amount off the spacer. I guess you need the injector to be sitting right down or the blue spacers may pop off right? Good choice on the Xspurts. I have the 1000's now, running eflex and it idles perfectly.

It looks like the injector isnt seating right down in the hole, is the spacer too long?

Thanks Aaron for giving me a hand today fitting the new fuel lines and fittings. No leaks this time. I plan to do the GTX3071 install next week and hopefully tuned soon after. I will try to get some pics as I go, it looks like I will have to drop the front driveshaft and suspension just to get the turbo outlet pipe off the car. How did you do it Craig?

I can make up a how to if you like, what are you planning to achieve though? Do you want the converter unlocked all the time or do you want to lock it manually with a switch for tuning?

I thought Cam proved the cooler was working with the converter locked... There isnt as much need for it to cool as the demand is lower, the converter sucks over 30kw which is converted into heat. I can only imagine the temps mine gets up to when tuning, more than enough to boil the coolant in the radiator. Generally its locked on the dyno but the lockup clutch wont hold much more than 300kw even when built. (mine is a dominator torque converter)

Local aluminium supplier? You may need to machine it a little on a lathe though. The place I go to sells any type of extrusion for $12kg.

Its all talk till I see the graphs. I havent heard of anything other than shipping the ecu over to Japan for a guess-flash. I was hoping there would be a better option by now, considering im about to push for 350+

Thats no way to talk about the only tuner thats managed to tune an m35. A CO2 extinguisher works just as well apparently.

There are many M35's getting around with the mod done now, none of the ones down here have the MIL up yet that I know of... Perhaps its just you Canadians? Im sure they will pop up eventually. I fitted a switch in one today, just next to the ecu. If the light comes on he will just switch it back on for a minute. We need to come up with a simple switch/circuit to automatically enable the brake circuit for a single pulse. Perhaps a momentary switch on the brake or handbrake?

Have you seen how small the stock ones in the engine bay are? Anything over 1 amp would be better than what Nissan used. I ran around 4mm.

A quick Google search shows its a GT3071 with a modified rear to suit the T25 flange. http://www.turbomaster.info/eng/applications/700382-0003.php

I doubt it will work, I have tried most of the obd2 software and couldn't get any of them to communicate.

I guess you need an oscilloscope on it while you drive? I hope its the same, I need to find the Stagea one also.

Go the shift kit, you wont be disappointed especially if you plan more mods down the track. As our cars back off the timing during shifts it wont be too harsh, it will only shift hard at full throttle anyway. The grounding kit will only help if your car has a bad earth, I just ran my own new wires with crimp lugs.

They were new, and not bad quality. I think the BC's are a little better though, as you don't need to drop the rear shock to adjust the dampening.

Its been e70 since I began running it, no fluctuations apparent on the wideband. Its not really an issue as it wont detonate if run lean, it just runs a bit hotter.

Any chance theres a leak in the exhaust somewhere closer to the turbo? I have a small leak right at the dump atm causing air to be sucked in, venturi style. The wideband fluctuates badly at certain revs now and I guess my last tune was out a bit because of it.

Just another code to add to the list... At least it doesnt go into full limp mode.

You can use a compressor to test the opening pressure but that doesn't take into account the pressure behind the wastegate puck in the manifold. If they crack at 10 psi, they should run around 7 psi on the road. You should have around 3mm of preload on the actuator arm also, add washers if needed under the actuator where the mounting screws are.

Where are you? Go to a Caltex and get some Eflex, you can add around 10-20 percent to your tank with no problems. Perhaps 10L to a tank would help?

I wouldn't know if it threw a code, my light has been on since the emanage went in. As long as it doesn't lean out the engine too much on boost I guess. Have you done any long drives Andy?

So it finally threw a code. Looks like a switch is the answer. Did it cut the throttle though? I don't care if the light comes on...

Eh?