scotty nm35

It will hit either way, and im not removing all those tray screws and the bar again. lol. Before you put the links on, just test the travel of the bar and you will see what I mean. File the upper clamp a little, both sides of the flat section and it will allow more travel.

I think it says 67mm. You may have to go for the round slip on ones, the 80mm should be close to sliding inside the 3.5 inch pipe and the 95mm would be the only choice for larger than 3.5 inch, it would need adapters on each end. Perhaps you could hide it inside the cat body?

Yep, they are the same, just be careful if you go down the low temp thermostat route, stick to stock temp if possible or your fuel mapping may be all over the place.

It will run off the stock ecu to a point, but it will run like ass and possibly hit airflow cut as the ecu isnt tuned for the extra airflow. My suggestion is not to go too large and if you don't plan to run the emanage eventually, keep the wheels almost stock sized. (or just replace the turbo with a stock one)

Just 200ml missing is enough to overheat the engine, have you filled the rear bleed point when cold? You may need to do it a few times. The thermostat is inside the housing the lower hose goes into, its 3 screws to remove it but its a bit tight down there. Test it in hot water if the re-bleed doesn't work.

Hampton Park mate. I will pm you.

I think he means AFM's?

My Proflow fittings were weeping ethanol. The rep is looking at them now. I cant fit the turbo until thats sorted unfortunately. Funny enough, the "Torques" ebay fittings were perfect, tested to 90psi as thats all the reg can do. The other issue I had, there is a large anti surge cup in the fuel tank with small slots in the bottom, at under 1/4 tank the twin walbros can empty it in a few seconds so I need to enlarge the holes. Im back on the stock fuel system for a week or two. (Lucky I left the stock lines in)

Nice. Post up the graph...

I use 80mm usually which is 3 inch internally, you can just squeeze the 3 inch silicone over it. No problem fitting it in with the factory cooler piping and painted black it looks stock. I will definitely make a jig off the next intake I make, it shouldn't be hard to make a few up on the bench then.

I just fitted Ironpaw's bars today, same issue with the front locating clamps. I just filed a few mm off the upper half of the clamp and it gave me back all the travel the bar would need. They have to be clamped hard one side so when you lower the car they sit central giving the bar plenty of clearance. Other than that they are great. We set the rear bar at maximum, (closest hole to the mounts) and the heavy front bar on the softer outside holes. How do they feel mate?

There is no immobiliser in the Stagea like the V35. I guess an aftermarket ECU gets rid of it or its all done by the BCM.

Not on the compressor side, but any gt30 rear will fit on the GTX as they haven't changed the turbine wheel. There are billet compressor wheels on ebay for the gt30, not sure how good they are but you would need to get it balanced by Garrett after fitting it.

The difference with Craig's car was the pump was still connected and trying to operate. Once you bleed all the pressure it should be fine I guess.

Simply unplugging the power to the motor is a bit agricultural. (you may like it farmer Cam) Fitting a relay would be a good option, or just get the torque split to work? The attessa computer is a pain to get to though. I saw Craigs car run up on the dyno in rear drive, the fronts were spinning very slowly on the front rollers which meant there was a slight clutch transfer but nothing compared to slamming in when in normal operation. I think it would be fine for occasional use, remember its how the car drives for most of its life.

No, I haven't made a jig for them yet as I wasn't sure what style people would want, It looks like most owners want the BOV return and breather plumbed in which adds cost and requires the existing steel piping to be modified. Best to drop around and get it custom fitted how you want it if you're local.

I fitted the front bar last night, I had some issues with the gold clamp rings, they seem to hit the chassis when clamped to the bar and only allow a small amount of bar travel. Has anyone else hit this problem? I was worried it would cause load on the links. I only had to file a bit off the lower part of the clamp to make it work though...

It does for me.

Im taking mine out today, a compliance fitted immobiliser/alarm and fitting a nice Viper. I noticed there are blank keys on ebay, and I don't need my board if anyone wants another oem key.

Here is the turbo/manifold pic. As you can see it isn't like any other turbo I have seen, other than the VQ30.

If its the RE4 they are a very capable box, same as the skylines run.

Yep, same pattern. That's what Ironpaw is running at the moment. Just make sure they aren't staggered widths or offset.

Yer, not so sure the spray on ones are the go, just rainex in the small bottle.

Only a Vmanage...

I should be able to crack 11's fairly easily once the new turbo goes in, if it all holds up. What do the Audi's do out of the box?