scotty nm35

Lol, youre all gay and im taken, sorry.

I have welded cracks for people before but replacing a Ti section is way beyond me as I cant source the materials in Aus. How bad is it and where are you?

I have seen Greddy thermostat sandwich plates going for $170 on ebay, I bought the mocal one first and it was just a spring blocking a hole with nowhere to put my senders, the Greddy was a proper plunger style thermostat.

The diagrams I had folded out to over 2m long, couldnt find a photosopier big enuf.

On topic, (calm down ladies) I dont think you need the restriction removed unless you get a highflow as I can bag the wheels up now at takeoff (stock turbo), it is very different with a highflow and most likely gets worse the larger you go. Most likely I will hate the Garrett until the remap is done.

Instrument cluster or BCM? I wish I could get the schematics out but I gave them back to Prince Skyline.

I went down a similar path in my head Leon, I wasnt too keen to see 300kw suddenly at a red light though if it all went pear shaped. Driving the electronic throttle manually isnt a good idea I decided. The stuttering you experienced was the engine running lean for sure, get the wideband in if you decide to do further testing. If the ecu sees any variation between the tps signals it will obviously go into limp mode which you experienced. Not fun on a busy road as you can imagine. The cable throttle idea worked well, the engine went into limp mode, thinking it was doing 1200 revs. Cihan and I tuned the emanage around this taking fuel out at less throttle and increasing it as the throttle opened. Surprisingly it ran very well, using the pedal resistor as tps. The only draw back was the cams were in full retard and the gearbox had no throttle kickdown. (As I drive in manual anyway it wasnt an issue) I was hoping the Vmanage would take care of the cams which may still happen. At least if the cable snaps it defaults to idle. I always make sure any throttle mods failing have a similar outcome... I still think a remap is the best option as all the factory parts and safety remain in place.

Yep, may need it.

I had no issues bleeding mine, these are a weird setup as the callipers run twin bleeders. Is there a particular method I should be using on the Brembos? We flushed the whole system and I bled each nipple until there was no bubbles, starting with the inside ones. Then I did them all again to make sure. Perhaps there was an air lock somewhere? Hopefully any excess air has worked its way into the callipers, I will re-bleed the system for you tomorrow if you like.

Yep, im in Hampton Park. Did they mark it before cutting? If not you will probably need to fit it to the car and mark the join, then remove it and weld.

The Vmanage works, I can see the input cam timing and adjust it but the frequency output differs between the hydraulic cam actuators on the 350z (CVTC) and the electronic one we have (eVTC). When I advance the cams more than 10 degrees it hits the end of its adjustment meaning 40 degrees or more, added to the fact I cant actually see the output signal cam advance or log it for some reason. I had the cams on full advance at idle for a minute and it ran like ass, lumpy and trying to stall so it is definitely working. As for the remap, I would love to just drop my car into Gzone or other to do a full tune, perhaps one day when people find out how good our engine is there will be a market for someone over here to do it. Probably just as I sell the car...

I was having severe issues on the Manildra blend at anything under 15 degrees, now on Caltex it will start fairly easily, only a little cough and splutter but on the first crank or two. The issue is I cant give it a bit of pedal at startup with the stupid electronic throttle.

Yep, but if I read what the guy was telling us correctly, you will require this unit to desensitise the pedal or you will be leaving 4 black lines everytime you take off. The throttle size on our car is just too big to ease it off the line, with the stock turbo kicking in so early. This is completely negated once you highflow the turbo which I doubt too many have done in Japan. So you arent going ahead? I would like to get my spare ecu done still if you are able to organise it. I dont care about the fuel and timing but I will definitely need the throttle fixed with the new turbo going in... It will be way too soggy low down otherwise. Im just not sure you should tell him im gunning for 600ps on an unopened engine. lol.

I have some spares

It's the aussie way. Lol. Keen to know what adjustments can be made with the fcon mate.

On the open road I can get over 500 ks from 70L, around town, 300 to 350. Sounds like he's either running rich or likes the throttle.

Petrol is too prone to detonation for my liking to be used everyday.

To give you some idea of what mine is like now, my missus drove me to the other side of Melbourne last night. I got a headache because her throttle control was useless, on boost off boost the whole way. She said she was barely moving the throttle but the ecu was obviously telling the actual throttle to move too much and with the stock turbo that makes for an interesting drive. Normally I would turn down the throttle sensitivity with the throttle controller but lately when I activate it the ecu occasionally goes into limp mode (must be seeing a difference in resistance between the two potentiometers in the pedal sensor) which kills all power and almost idles down the street. Obviously I don't want this happening when she is driving so I had to just put up with it. With the highflow in the throttle is less sensitive until boost kicks in so that is the main issue, with such a large throttle plate and high boost, it will either force the plate open or just force past it. I have already driven the car with a 70mm cable throttle and it was great, other than the cams remaining retarded which meant the midrange was much less responsive. If I must go back down that path I will, I would just prefer to get the ecu remapped if it will clear this up. (I doubt it will help much though). Unfortunately it has been impossible to communicate all this to the Japanese tuners so far so I have no idea if they can help. I think I would prefer to just cut the ecu out, put in a PS2000 and go manual.

Sounds like fun, whats it cost?

They wont be leaning the mixture from stock, as it does a very good job already. If you want to save fuel, you need very good throttle control because the throttle plate opens to 60% at what seems to be 10% throttle pedal input. If they can attach the throttle to my foot I would be very happy. What was he talking about with the throttle, was he suggesting a cable one?

I doubt the exhaust size would make much difference to max power with the stock turbo, If I was them I would be asking if the intake has been upgraded, lol. Of course that mod hasnt been done over there as far as I know.

I could barely get the gauge to read 10 stock, now its powered up I can pin it to the end so it is definitely torque input related. It will transfer mainly using the G sensor from what I have seen. When it does, I get driveline vibration, mainly under hard acceleration.

Only the PM is different. Interesting, VQ25det doesn't seem to use the CAN signal, it uses the NAVI? VQ30 does use it?

You are forgetting its not straight ethanol. I leave mine on petrol afr's and get it tuned for around 12:1 at WOT that gives me a little play room still incase Caltex change their brew. (and that way I never get confused converting from lambda.)

Im in, I have a spare ecu here too, better make sure it works...