scotty nm35

I use a small vertical bandsaw, I can usually get the cut very close by hand/eye, then linisher to clean it up. Its the main reason I prefer lobster bends as I find it much easier to cut the angle required in the brobo, I can also change the radius of the bend along with creating smooth spirals etc. Its a bit more welding but I need all the practice I can get with alloy.

I was getting prices of $500 just for the ethanol content sensor a while back, have the prices come down?

Haha, not the easiest of jobs. Give me a call if you need help, I use 2 long extensions and a universal on the end.

Mine are stainless, 3.5 inch to 3 inch outlet and very smooth flow. I sell them for $450 heat wrapped and can supply gaskets, stainless bolts, stainless studs with copper nuts and heatsheild for the firewall if you require it. I can sell just the flanges if you like, PM me.

You are right Birds, not that it would change by that much and I cant seem to foul the plugs no matter how rich I go. From my experience you can run a little leaner due to having more volume of fuel cooling the pistons, my latest tune adds only 18% not 30. We have been on "winter" blend (e70) since the pumps went in, im not sure they will switch anything till next summer, if at all. There is certainly no power loss having a bit more petrol in the mix, if anything it helps ignite the ethanol quicker improving the burn. Personally I hope they just leave it e70. OP, what's all the drama about? Man up and get on board, its the only way Caltex will roll out more pumps...

Which dumps? Mine is a few pages back. Just got some 10mm stainless flanges laser cut, ready to make more dumps if anyone wants one.

LOL @ exhaust touching the ground.

Whats that abortion? I could make you one but you are a bit far away, Just get the flange made, one off may be easier to hand cut it, like with an angle grinder, drill and files if you are keen. The other option is to cut that one off and clean it up? Then you can take it to a fabricator and get him to make a 3.5 inch bellmouth off it.

Like I said, my Bosch sensor is still going strong after over a year on Ethanol and 100 dyno runs, mounted close to the turbo. I know moisture can ruin them if installed in the wrong orientation but I guess there are always bad batches. I know Trent had to change them regularly and I suggested to him it could be because the cars were being tuned and running rich as F*#K causing carbon to build up on the sensor. Only a theory though.

Nothing wrong with those cam gears by the looks of it, but its the risk you take I guess. Replace the bolts as said and they should be fine, better than HKS's attempt. 5 bolt so they shouldnt slip, just loctite the new high tensile bolts in place. BC's FTW! Taiwan has been the best manufacturer (cost v quality wise)for a long while now imo.

3 x -6 should be plenty, they are 8mm internal, bigger than the outlet from the pump. I would only go to -8 or larger for the big single pumps like the A1000.

Im self taught, like you guys say, its a very long process with hundreds of hours practice to become proficient at tig, even more for alloys. Luckily most fab work for cars isnt critical strength wise. I would buy a cheap 150A DC tig and start practising, its the best way to stick manifolds together.

I didn't, I ran the narrowband in the stock dump location, the wideband a foot down and a temp probe right at the turbine outlet. The dump looked like a mess. One output to the gauge and the other into the Emanage.

Not the most compact option Trent. lol. http://www.rhdjapan.com/neko-corporation-af-700-air-fuel-ratio-meter-system-31063 I still have had no problem with my Innovative, well over a year of everyday driving on ethanol. I installed an AEM the other day for one of the Stagea guys, not a bad unit for $200 delivered either...

Cat body, so you need a 3 inch 100cpsi metal cat with a 4 inch body. Something like this... http://cgi.ebay.com.au/3-Metal-Cat-High-Flow-100-CPSI-TURBO-V8-DRAG-RACING-/200511014706?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eaf634732#ht_1623wt_905

And the extra pedal FTW...

The HR isnt supported by Greddy, why I have no idea, its only programming the pwm outputs as far as I know. Cant find an english manual anywhere either. Not the smartest considering half their gear is bought by overseas customers these days. I wish there was better support for this as its a great product with many uses, these variable cam engines are just starting to be unleashed.

20 x 10? you cant run decent brakes with that dish though.

The rears will work anyway so it wont be a total loss. Can you still get them on the order?

I was amazed how oily my intercooler was and I knew it wasnt working as well covered in oil. The breather catch can doesnt seem to catch much oil though, but heaps of water and ethanol vapour. The pcv definitely dumps oil down the middle two plenum runners, I have about the same 100ml going in each change, more in winter with the water condensate. I have fitted a ball valve on each to drain into the oil tray when doing the change.

Oi, get me a set too... How much was it?

I had the lumpy idle yesterday. lol. The engine wanted to stall with the actuators on full advance.

I have a spare ecu also if it all works out. You will still need some way of adjusting fuel and timing though if you have gone the highflow path... No way you can guess that tune from the other side of the world.

I just fitted a V-manage unit with the help of my tuner Cihan, it doesn't seem to be outputting the correct signal to the cam retarders but I can read the stock cam mapping quite well. It seems to be advancing the cams early on, before the stock turbo makes boost which is promising, up to 30 degrees advance from what I logged. The VQ35de data I am using to control it must have a different signal to run its hydraulic cam retarders, and there doesn't seem to be any other CVCT VQ's listed. Does anyone know of a different VQ that runs the same electromagnetic actuator? Not looking good for the cable throttle install as the cams will go into full retard once the engine is in limp mode, unless I can get this working. I have emailed Greddy Japan for support but im not holding my breath...

I get mine here, not sure what the thread pitch is on the RB's though, is it 1.5mm or 1.25? http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200356383346&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_830wt_1139