scotty nm35

So is there a pump?

Buy two sets and we can try them. At the least the rears should work right?

I run mine under the airbox, there's a nice hole under there. I have another small one in next to the brake booster for the PCV.

I use stainless studs and copper nuts, never had a galling issue as they are all different materials which is more than I can say for the stock studs/nuts.

You thought wrong. Again.

That was probably my M35.

Sounds like the battery is stuffed, the voltage should never drop that low. Unless the starter is shorting out? Check the battery terminals are clean and not cracked and that all the heavy gauge wiring looks good.

Ive been running a 33gtr Tomei on e85 for over a year now with no issues. The lowly Walbro has been heavily tested with it, no problems reported and there are plenty of people on ethanol with 044's aren't there? I agree, the bearings may fail after a few years in any pump as there is virtually no lubrication with ethanol. The higher petrol percentages like Caltex Eflex (E70) may be better but essentially when the pump starts squealing you will need to replace it, which is part of the reason I like the twin Walbro HP setups (low cost).

Replace the gearbox and transfer first mate, that will fix the fault...

Of course, the base model has no seat bags or electrics and I haven't seen a ram under mine either although there are plenty of wires. I agree with Duncan, getting the system out of fault so the bags deploy in an accident is much more important to me than how the insurance company will weasel out of their contract.

I would say if you had working washers the police would let you off in a majority of cases. How are they going to test the auto levelling anyway?

I have a spare one here, off Aaron's old grill. $20 plus shipping if you want it. Did someone debadge you car?

Just reheat the solder joints as they may be cracked. You sometimes cant tell by looking.

The M35 pump is similar to the 350z, it sits under the rear seat. One Walbro and -6 line for each rail running ID1000's, non return valves before the reg should let me know if one pump fails so as not to run lean.

Our revs and speed in 3rd closely match the skyline's 4th so the ratios shouldn't mean any mechanical advantage IMO.

I compared my torque figure of over 1000nm to a 300kw 2j supra being tuned the same day, it put out 850 on 98. Ethanol is the key to the gains as I would have only made around 700nm on 98 I would say. Whatever the number means, it certainly pulled like a freight train, even in 5th.

The Pierburg is very long and thin, like two Walbro's end to end. The A1000 is around 3.5 inches round and 6 inches long as I remember. It can be mounted intank apparently but it is single speed, there are similar pumps around with variable speed to stop the fuel heating so much. These require -8 fittings and hoses at least for their rated output apparently. Best and cheapest option is twin Walbro's cost and price wise, may not be the most reliable though but thats what I went for.

10w40 feels the best in my engine and offers much more bearing protection. My car used to smoke a little at startup, then I realised it was the pcv valve sucking all the oil mist up and dumping it into the middle plenum runners. Once I fitted a catch can in line it all stopped.

Parts? The rods are the same, possibly the crank? Other than no cam overlap adjustment they are similar engines.

Who told you that? I have spoken to a VQ30det owner with a TO4Z on it pushing 430wkw on the same rods, they must obviously be good for more than that as he was running that power for a year I think. I havent done any rod work as I cant find replacements, and even if I got custom ones made, (you dont want to know the prices I got) they wouldnt be as strong as the stock ones. I will be going the 3.5 route anyway as soon as I can afford to rebuild the block I have here, should be good for over 800hp fairly easily. The Emanage is a standalone if you put the engine in limp mode by the way.

Totally illegal over here unfortunately. (So are most of the other mods I do though)

Once its whining the bearings are shagged so its only a matter of time before the rear wheel contacts the housing and smashes itself to pieces unfortunately. You may get a few more months out of it, perhaps a lot more if you drive conservatively. (Yeh right. )

I dont think you read it, I will be running the Emanage as a standalone in a few weeks, with full cam control and a cable throttle for under $1000, beat that. A 4000 rpm launch should hopefully be on the cards if the box survives. lol.

I have the PM wiring diagram here... It could be the same. It should also be OBD2 compliant...

Perhaps, it may depend where you are too. My brother bought an ex ambulance f250 that had been professionally shortened after the rear axle (by the government), it took him over a year to get registered in Victoria, and only after hassling every engineer and Vicroads manager he could find. None of them wanted a bar of it. Chassis rails have to be one piece apparently. Ring and ask?