scotty nm35

Who cares! Oh thats right, you need to pass a yearly inspection, and if you cut the cel wire the car goes into limp mode... Oh thats right, its already going to be in limp mode so who cares again... lol.

I have logged the throttle curve, it isn't too bad. I don't think it needs spicing up. I plan to run cable throttle with the emanage running as a standalone anyway so it should be perfect.

I ran a cable throttle and still had the same takeoff, the cams go into full retard below 35? Kph to negate the need for traction control and make the car nice and friendly do drive. I will have the stock cam mapping data soon when I install the Vmanage so I will let you know exactly what it does.

I finished making the new fuel pump assembly today, all ready for the triple teflon braided lines. One Walbro HP and -6 line for each rail, it should just be able to max the injectors if I need it to. lol. Hopefully the gtx turbo ships soon...

I dont think you will ever be able to engineer a cut and shut chassis, you had better speak to the engineer you plan to use first if you plan to road register it. I believe they would have used the stock RB30 block, with forged internals then slapped the 26 head on it, as you need all the torque you can get to move the weight. I was planning to do my brother's patrol the same way.

Im still interested, if the funds im waiting on arrive...

You know that how? Guessing doesnt help. Just remember, Just Jap can get replacement parts and different spring rates for the BC's...

How accurate are the sensors? There would be a discrepancy between them too right? What unit do you use to read/log the temps and what do you plug the hole with when you are finished? I guess there is variation with injector flow if the tune is out that much between cylinders... I have a V6 so twin rails. I just finished making a twin Walbro intank setup with -6 lines to each rail, I didn't want issues with one pump failing and not knowing so this way, and with 2 one way valves before the reg, I can separate the flow to each rail completely. That way 3 injectors will fail completely if one pump goes. I will only have one return from the reg though. All teflon lines as i'm running Eflex.

Did you get any BOV reversion with that intake? The release port is very close to the AFM and comes in on the wrong angle, not pointing towards the turbo like it should...

It wont be the boot, that is just a bit of rubber, if anything the whole driveshaft would need replacing/rebuilding.

It is a fuel dampener, not a regulator. I think the 34's had it on the rail while the 33's had it on the body above the filter.

It sounds like your airflow meter has a bad solder joint, there is a how to for repair if you do a search.

The sock stops particles getting into the pump and causing damage. I have about 10 of them here, pity you're not local. Just fit it like it is for now and pick another one up later.

I use the cig lighter socket, it has a light on it, and its easy to get to.

Dont use it for a week and see if it continues building up? That is a decent leak...

Sounds like it must be the aircon drain then mate as the water isnt bright green... Remember how to get the glovebox out?

Sorry Jethro, I have no idea what it could be without going for a spin. Drop around tomorrow if you like and I can have a listen. When does it happen, only under power? Craig,

Of course, the pump is designed to go intank. Just make sure they are crimped properly. The best would be to solder and heat-shrink the connections.

As Arthur T3 said, just ding it in a bit if you can so its not touching. How did the intake go, did it all line up ok? When is the tune?

I agree, no need for wipers with a fresh smear of Rain-X, although I doubt the scrutineers will like it. lol.

You have chosen a 700hp turbo which would be way too laggy for that power. If you don't want attention go for a highflow turbo instead. (unless you are planning to push for much more later.) A smaller rear housing will just choke the potential of the compressor.

Get on to the supplier, the bracket should come separately in the box, it clamps around the bottom mount on mine although on that pic it is welded on.

Did he give a reason? I have had no problems with the stainless studs and copper nuts. Much better than reusing the old nuts imo.

What did you buy, did you get them from the link above? If so you will need the nuts to suit as they are 1.5mm pitch. The stock studs are M10x1.5 into the turbo and M10x1.25 for the dump side with the nut.

Just different sized rear wheels, gives some idea on power levels I guess. Stage 1 should be good for 250awkw, stage 2, 275 and stage 3, 300, all dependant on supporting mods. Garrett use the 3071 numbers, that would be the largest wheels you could machine into the stock housings, with a ball bearing core. Good for around 300awkw I would say.