scotty nm35

Its my house, lol. I live opposite that pos intersection. There is a bad accident there every week caused by the build up of traffic and impatient drivers. I had a lady doing the exact turn you were. She got T boned, her throttle got stuck and she drove straight into my workshop. (with me in it) Its only a matter of time before there is a fatality there. I have no idea why the road was put in (a few years ago), its the local racetrack, 60 zone but most people do 80 - 100 down it, the local dumping ground for stolen cars too which usually get set alight, and every second falcodore lights the tyres around the corner just to be cool. I would fight it, drivers have always been using the emergency lanes both sides of the highway to get up to the left lane at the lights, overtaking 50 or more cars at a time. It pisses other drivers off and shouldn't be tolerated because its dangerous, one day someone innocent will die from it. The cops should be booking him not hassling you.

I run 38 - 40psi but I believe your heavy steering is caused by the wider rims/tyres and different offset. It gets worse the wider you go.

Is the restrictor in the oil line? It could be blocked causing the initial turbo failure.

Was loctite even available when these engines were designed?

Sounds like it. If they have perished, I would be changing all the orings. Make sure you use some lubricant on them when you re-install, I use a little silicone spray.

An actuator set at your target boost will always be better than a boost controller, no matter what type. I would go an Emanage Ultimate mate.

You already bought a turbo, why didn't you go for the 3.5na? They can be stroked to 4.3L, you could even stroke the 2.5 and remove the turbo if you were really keen. (then turbo it again)

Fuel pump and injectors are a cheap upgrade, well worth the extra protection imo, but if you can run 109 when on high boost I guess it doesn't matter much. You would definitely need an industrial fuel system for e85 at that level. I just ordered my fuel setup, im doing it once, ready for the 3.5 if it ever goes in. Twin walbro HP intanks, one line for each rail, all in -6 teflon lines. Not bloody cheap but should flow enough to max the ID1000's

Mmm, they are the same sensor, just a different plug direction, so I dont understand why they are different prices. There are three sensors that could be the fault, like I said the crank sensor underneath may be dirty, have you tried cleaning it before blowing the cash? Are all the pins clean and straight? They have been replaced already remember. The clip was a pain to remove as I remember put it came off eventually.(I may have used a screwdriver.)

Have you tried AZNEW fuel injectors in Springvale? I think they do cleaning... (03) 9558 5300.

Here is the link for the studs I use mate. Hope it helps. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200356383346&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_830wt_1139

You don't think a grade 5 for $65 is good value? Certainly isnt wanking material, although it could help with the chafing I suppose...

I have always used 243, its a medium strength blue one. Cracks easy without heat and holds well, also acts as a lubricant for alloy to stop thread galling. For the flywheel you may want a harder one though.

My line is too small, the pump still has plenty to give. If im going to upgrade the lines, Twin walbro's (one 341 and one 342) will be going in. I plan to run one pump for each rail on the V6, that way if one fails I will know about it I hope... I bought the Tomei s/h, Ive had no issues with it for a year. There is no way I would spend $600 on one new when there are much better pumps for that price. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200471272130&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_1331wt_905

Im upgrading to twin Walbro's soon by the looks of it, I will have my r33 gtr Tomei pump up for sale then, if you're interested...

I do the least amount of work possible, and if I don't need to drop the tailshaft, I wont. You love pulling engines out Craig.

Wont work, too big to get in there. (or my sidchrome one is anyway) The universal works well, perhaps it is just loose? Sometimes they bind, (especially when old) just move it 1/4 turn and go again. If you run a tap through the nuts they just spin on so its easier next time. Don't let it beat you mate.

I have never touched the tailshaft mate. Easier?

Haha, I told you to call. Drop the Attesa line and the 4 cross member bolts then lower the box nearly all the way, it can come down quite a few inches. Undo the o2 first. A universal on two long extensions with a half inch breaker works well on the nuts, and plenty of wd40. You may need to trim a bit off the two lower studs if they are too long, and don't over tighten the nuts too much doing them back up. I usually run an M10 x 1.25 tap through the nuts just to clean them up first.

And the crank angle sensor is underneath the engine, on the gearbox. It may just need a clean as it builds up with a lot of gunk. Get underneath and remove it with a spanner, clean it and replace. See if the error goes away.

Which is exactly why heavily modifying it may not be a great idea. Its ok if you are able to work on it your self and repair it continuously but if you are relying on workshops to do all your work, and they cant get you in when theres a problem (and there will be many) you will never be happy. The stock car with perhaps an Emanage is the go, its all downhill from there imo.

Nice Duncan, same squirters as im running. Did they give you the dead time report with it? I have mine here if you need the lag time, I assume 1ms at 45psi @ 14v (should be close). You will need two of those pumps to flow anywhere near enough though. lol. Chris, where's the graph mate? Post it up.

Haha, where were you hiding?

Any auto can have an upgraded valve body, its just a few springs after all. If you put in your location in your profile, people may be able to recommend a local specialist to talk to. I used Kewish automotive in Melbourne.

http://www.autoblog.com/2011/03/15/spy-shots-bmw-flings-m3-pickup-around-the-ring/