scotty nm35

I think the aftermarket seat ones I bought may have just had a diode in them, it was nearly 0 ohms when I measured it. The joys of modern cars.

In.

In before RB26 conversion... And spun bearings.

Nice one Dale, same as my old Srad, mine was the last of the carbie's.

Unfortunately half the cars on the road have inaccurate speedo's reading high by 10kph, added to the flat bald tyres they likely have and the speedo could be out by 15%. Sometimes they actually think they are doing the speed limit. Don't get me started on your stupid NSW P plate laws...

The Turbosmart 800 is a very small reg, 800hp at the engine is pretty close to your 500wkw mark. I would usually recommend the 1200 at that power, the added an fitting upgrade is worth the extra $40 dollars over the 1/8bspt imo. Surprisingly the stock fuel lines should be just large enough for 450-500kw, but the 044 won't make it there. I would be picking up a Walbro 460L and dropping the pressure a little if your injectors are large enough, you might get close. Most installations I block the mid rail return, one feed line is more than enough. I assume you have a Freddy plenum?

Consult3 reads most systems, although mine didn't read the Hicas on the Stagea's for some reason, while other knockoff software does.

I used the lightweight in the evo diff and transfer, it foamed up and spewed crap everywhere, even out the seals. Now running the heavyweight with no issues. The Stagea seems to like the lightweight in the VLSD. For a mechanical I would probably run a standard GL5 and change it more often.

You would see a fair drop in power I suspect. How much is anyone's guess.

Or just run an Ethanol subtank for those high boost days.

Not in your case Greg, your pistons would probably exit via the exhaust tip.

It has all the hallmarks of an intake leak or restriction, but it was working fine before the engine build, and nothing else has changed afaik. Greg, take a coke can to block the BOV on the next tune.

Quoted for truth.

Some Autobarn stores have them in stock occasionally, try Cranbourne or some of the other large stores. Cheaper to just get them from Nengun or similar I would say.

One knob melts the pistons and the other snaps the rods. It needs to be setup on a dyno preferably now you played with the knobs, or road tuned with a wideband fitted. Playing with the AFM signal isn't a great way to tune a car at all...

Plumb it under the dash to amplify the noise .

More cubes the better imo, stroke it to 4L Birds.

Hopefully it isn't a shimmed stock diff, they can shudder badly too if they shimmed it too tight.

Slides up and a little towards the hole. They can be a little tight though... Easier when the fuel level is low and you can get a torch in there to see how it works.

lol. I actually heard that in his accent too.

There is a thread somewhere on here where the vlsd centre was cut open on a lathe, repacked with silicone grease or whatever it is, then rewelded back together, seemed to work out ok, better than shimming it solid anyway.

I could have met you at the border and done the dodgy deal in a truck stop. lol. With enough bubble wrap or blankets I am sure it would have made it fine. This way you would have got the whole window in the frame with switch, hinges etc, not just the glass.

The patrol/300zx RE4 can be built to handle around that, and it should bolt straight up using the auto rb bellhousing. If you end up heading that way, check out the PCS programmable controller, best thing you could do for a built auto, shits all over manualised boxes.

The main issue with one piece shafts of any kind is they need to be perfectly aligned off the gearbox to the diff for there to be no vibration. I have worked on a few of these one piece upgrades and most have vibration. Carbon would likely make the issue worse.

Usually the lpg pumps max out around 250kw from my experience.